New Floor Pans--Rust Resistor?

5.0StangRacer

New Member

Sep 16, 2003

227

0

0

Damascus, Maryland

Dec 14, 2005

#1

• Dec 14, 2005

• #1

I'm putting in my brand new floorpans and I really dont want them rusting anytime soon, and i read someones thread about truck bedliner, and that got me thinking...should I put something on them to keep them from rusting out? what do you know from experience? anyways, thanks in advance!

 

t_chelle16

Keeper of the closet key

Founding Member

May 8, 2002

3,610

0

0

Knob Noster, Mo.

Dec 14, 2005

#2

• Dec 14, 2005

• #2

I plan on covering the under carriage of my mustang with Rhino liner. I also have some POR15 to go on the inside.

-Chelle

 

1320stang

Founding Member

Nov 13, 1998

4,329

23

89

Edmond, Oklahoma

Dec 14, 2005

#3

• Dec 14, 2005

• #3

If your not going to prime and paint them, I'd look into the POR15 or Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and brush that on, then either undercoat it since you live in a rust belt. Undercoating is typically an asphalt based material whereas the bedliner stuff is usually some type of plastic.

 

5.0StangRacer

New Member

Sep 16, 2003

227

0

0

Damascus, Maryland

Dec 14, 2005

#4

• Dec 14, 2005

• #4

any brands of undercoating reccomended? and who sells it? and how should i apply it?

 

68converted

Member

Nov 19, 2003

772

0

16

Colorado

Dec 14, 2005

#5

• Dec 14, 2005

• #5

I put in new pans and scraped and sanded the entire underside of my car. One thing that I found was that any spot that was covered with the original petrolium based seam sealer or undercoating, there was absolutely zero rust, zero fading of paint, and the metal was perfect.

I Por-15'd the entire inside and underside of the car and the trunk. I plan to top coat and then top that off with a petrolium based undercoating. Should be good for another 30+ years.

 

G

gzminiz

New Member

Oct 15, 2004

200

0

0

Phoenix, AZ

Dec 14, 2005

#6

• Dec 14, 2005

• #6

68converted said:

I put in new pans and scraped and sanded the entire underside of my car. One thing that I found was that any spot that was covered with the original petrolium based seam sealer or undercoating, there was absolutely zero rust, zero fading of paint, and the metal was perfect.

I Por-15'd the entire inside and underside of the car and the trunk. I plan to top coat and then top that off with a petrolium based undercoating. Should be good for another 30+ years.

Click to expand...

did you have a lift to scrap the underside?

 

geostang351

Member

Mar 30, 2005

946

0

17

Danb., CT

Dec 15, 2005

#7

• Dec 15, 2005

• #7

LOL. Get ready to get on your back and scrape. Note: Be sure to where eye protection because that stuff does not belong in your eye socket.

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

32

109

Austin TX

Dec 15, 2005

#8

• Dec 15, 2005

• #8

Unless you live in the rust belt floor often rust from the inside, particularly on convertibles. I'm just saying that so that you'll coat/protect the interior as well. I am a fan of POR-15, but for any exterior application or anything that will get UV-rays you're gonna have to top coat it. I just put underlayment and carpet on top of the interior side.

See the pictures here.

 

5.0StangRacer

New Member

Sep 16, 2003

227

0

0

Damascus, Maryland

Dec 15, 2005

#9

• Dec 15, 2005

• #9

Edbert, looks good, what did u paint the interior with? wheres the cheapest place to get por-15? and I know this is a strange question, but anyone get down on the ground and take pictures of they're coating underbody after they were done with it? thanks for all the help guys

 

R

Red5oh

Member

Jul 8, 2005

377

0

17

DFW, Texas

Dec 15, 2005

#10

• Dec 15, 2005

• #10

I used a product called Rust Bullet. This stuff is every bit as hard as POR-15 and it is UV stabilized. I replaced the floors, cleaned everything to the metal and brushed it on top and bottom. I then put the seam sealer on everything as an extra measure of protection.

Final plans are to add dynamat to all surfaces (including firewall) for sound and heat. I have dynamat in the doors, rear panels and the roof. It should be one fairly quiet ride when I am done.

 

geostang351

Member

Mar 30, 2005

946

0

17

Danb., CT

Dec 15, 2005

#11

• Dec 15, 2005

• #11

Love the way that looks!! Clean fresh metal. How did you apply it? What is the cost? How much did you use?

 

5.0StangRacer

New Member

Sep 16, 2003

227

0

0

Damascus, Maryland

Dec 15, 2005

#12

• Dec 15, 2005

• #12

same quesetions as geostang351, looks awesome!

 

R

Red5oh

Member

Jul 8, 2005

377

0

17

DFW, Texas

Dec 15, 2005

#13

• Dec 15, 2005

• #13

I brushed it on, but you can roll it or spray it. I figured since it was under the car and under carpet, the brushing was the easiest.

I had the car completely apart, so the firewall is done, and bottom side of the cowl, etc.... eventually the rear seat area will get done, basically everything in the interior.

 

R

Red5oh

Member

Jul 8, 2005

377

0

17

DFW, Texas

Dec 15, 2005

#14

• Dec 15, 2005

• #14

Here is one of the engine compartment... much cleaner now Oh, also now it has an EFI 302 in it as well. I am running out of upload space or I would post more pics.

 

S

slepe67

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

78

0

0

Dec 15, 2005

#15

• Dec 15, 2005

• #15

Almost a hijack here (sorry), but if a guy had his car already media blasted and epoxy primered, could he use the POR 15, or Rust Bucket OVER the primer and not have to paint it?

 

R

Red5oh

Member

Jul 8, 2005

377

0

17

DFW, Texas

Dec 16, 2005

#16

• Dec 16, 2005

• #16

I'm sorry that I didnt answer all of your questions....

I want to say it took about a quart to do the interior floors, and the same for the bottom of the floors. I three quarts to start with and I still have a bit left. (The remaining quart was opened to do the interior roof, inside the doors and rear axle section) The prob with this and/or por-15 is that once you open it, you have to use it. That is why I did not buy a gallon at a time. They say you can put a plastic wrap over the unused portion and prolong it, but the chemistry involved suggests to just plan it well and do as the instructions say.

My car was not a rust bucket at all... even the bottoms of the floors still had the stock red oxide primer on it. I just liked how tough this stuff is to clean it all off and apply it. I figured if I am going this far with the car, I might as well make it as clean as possible. Plus the added bonus of assembling a clean car with no grease is very nice. Overall, it didnt cost much, only time and isnt that what the winter is for?

I got mine from www.rustbullet.com and a gallon price was ~$100. At this point in the game, I do not know if I need anymore. Almost all of the places I wanted to use it are done. I am finishing up body work and fiberglass work to get ready for paint... hopefully completed in early spring.

 

68converted

Member

Nov 19, 2003

772

0

16

Colorado

Dec 16, 2005

#17

• Dec 16, 2005

• #17

My car came from Kansas City, talk about rust. I did the entire project on my back, using the tallest jack stands I could find. To give you an idea as to how tough it was. I was working on the underside of the pans to smooth/weld the seams and somehow I twisted to hammer/massage a seam and broke two ribs. That set the project back for a while.

I used the spongy brushes to apply the Por-15. I tried rolling it but that only works for the flat surfaces. I wanted to fill all the seams and places where multiple panels were welded together.

If you use Por-15, be VERY careful not to get it on your skin (i.e. your face). It takes approx. 1 wk to get the stain out.

I scraped and sanded/ washed everything down with degreaser (industrial strength- don't get that in your eye, as your reflex is to try to put your head in your hands, and that mustang above you will not budge). Then I used the Por-15 Metal Ready on everything. I let it dry for about two days, and coated with the Por-15.

It's a shame I had to top coat it. It had a beautiful gloss black finish. Good luck on your decision and project. It is all worth the effort when you’re done!

 

D

danny clemens

Member

May 4, 2005

728

0

16

Dec 16, 2005

#18

• Dec 16, 2005

• #18

A good way to get rust and dirt off of the bottom is to use a 4 1/2 grinder and a knotted wire cup brush. WARNING!!! When using a cup brush in this manner it can be hazerdous to your health. If it catches on anything it can jerk itself out of your hands and you could lose some skin and blood. Maybe more. I know some people wouldn't recommend this method but if you are careful it does work rather well.

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

32

109

Austin TX

Dec 16, 2005

#19

• Dec 16, 2005

• #19

slepe67 said:

Almost a hijack here (sorry), but if a guy had his car already media blasted and epoxy primered, could he use the POR 15, or Rust Bucket OVER the primer and not have to paint it?

Click to expand...

You could but you would not have the best protection, POR wants to be on the metal itself, so it would be somewhat of a waste of money since POR is so expensive.

 

68converted

Member

Nov 19, 2003

772

0

16

Colorado

Dec 16, 2005

#20

• Dec 16, 2005

• #20

danny clemens said:

A good way to get rust and dirt off of the bottom is to use a 4 1/2 grinder and a knotted wire cup brush. WARNING!!! When using a cup brush in this manner it can be hazerdous to your health. If it catches on anything it can jerk itself out of your hands and you could lose some skin and blood. Maybe more. I know some people wouldn't recommend this method but if you are careful it does work rather well.

Click to expand...

First hand experience!!!! It hurts like a beoch when the grinder takes your sweatshirt and skin under it and gives you the worst twister of your life. I thought it ripped a solid chunk out of my flesh, and it took me at least 30 seconds to get the courage to take a look. Lots of blood anyway, and it just barely missed my face. Then I would have been real perty. I ended up using a power drill and a wire cup, and that seemed to give me more control, though it took longer.