just got my car back and still have the same problem. high rpm miss. like a rev limitor. now the shop says all systems ok. so i decide to check tps i cant get a reading at all nothing. they block off egr valve and i disconnect it and cap it off. shop says its still running lean is what they said.how could i check my distribtor to see if there is a problem there. the tfi module is brand new
new fuel pump same bull**** problem
- Thread starter noslow1986
- Start date
z2o_what
Member
did you check to see if the tps was getting power, from the orange wire(i think its like 4volts) . when my car was efi i had alot of problems with it missing, and it turned out the orange wire wasn't in the plug far enough to get connection.
put a multimeter on it and cant get a reading even tried a different one. new plugs, cap,rotor wires,tfi module, oxygen sensors, 2 different coils, fuel filter, i dont know what to do i already had then pump put in and it some what fixed the problem but the high rpm miss is still there. been dealing with this for 2 months. how can i tell is the distrubtor is good. i cant even check tps for whatever reason it wont let me.
You have the key-on while doing this, right?
Put the DMM across the battery terminals as a bench test. If it works there, reprobe the TPS wires. They can be a bear to pierce decently. If needed, check each wire (checking for continuity to ground with the TPS ground wire).
Good luck.
Put the DMM across the battery terminals as a bench test. If it works there, reprobe the TPS wires. They can be a bear to pierce decently. If needed, check each wire (checking for continuity to ground with the TPS ground wire).
Good luck.
A repeat of what I have said before...
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
You may not be running lean, but may have other problems. Lack of fuel is not my #1 suspect in high speed misses. It is usually ignition related.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
You may not be running lean, but may have other problems. Lack of fuel is not my #1 suspect in high speed misses. It is usually ignition related.
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