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New guy question re: heads

  • Thread starter Thread starter 94droptop
  • Start date Start date May 15, 2004
9

94droptop

New Member
Jul 7, 2002
24
0
0
Maplewood, MN
May 15, 2004
#1
  • May 15, 2004
  • #1
First I wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the great information, you have answered a lot of questions for me.

It looks like there is pretty good debate going on with AFR versus Trick Flow TW heads, but I have a question regarding the edelbrock performer heads or heads in general.

I am looking to purchase either the Edelbrock Performer #60329 stud mount or the #60379 pedestal mount heads.

Could you tell me which would be better for a mild street application, also would the crane energizer 1.6 rr or the comp cams 1.6 rr's be better to go with?

Either set of heads will be matched up with a extrude honed Cobra intake I picked up cheap, FMS ceramic coated shorty headers, 65MM throttle body, AFPR, stock MAF and injectors for now and hopefully an FTI cam.

Thanks for the help
 

S/CBlack95GT

New Member
Apr 6, 2003
2,018
0
0
Tampa Palms, FL
May 15, 2004
#2
  • May 15, 2004
  • #2
I have the old design Edel Performer 5.0 heads and I love them. My car made good power and the heads have been trouble free for all 5,000 miles I have had them. If you are going to get a cam I recommend the stud mount Edel Performer RPM heads.
 
9

94droptop

New Member
Jul 7, 2002
24
0
0
Maplewood, MN
May 15, 2004
#3
  • May 15, 2004
  • #3
Shaun,

Thanks for the reply. What rockers and valve covers did you go with?
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
May 15, 2004
#4
  • May 15, 2004
  • #4
I would not do pedestal mount heads. I made the mistake of getting my AFR's with pedestal mounts and I fought with valve train geometry and such for a LONG time before I got it right. The new e-brock castings seem like they have come a long way in terms of performance. Their quality is second to none, so if they make more power than the previous 6037's then they have a winner on their hands. Get the rockers that are the smallest as with 94-95 VC clearance is an issue. Scorpions are good but you'll have one hell of a time getting them to fit under the stock VC's.
 
9

94droptop

New Member
Jul 7, 2002
24
0
0
Maplewood, MN
May 15, 2004
#5
  • May 15, 2004
  • #5
Thanks Paul,

The feedback is really good. I e-mailed edelbrock and they actually recommended the pedestal mount heads which seemed odd to me.

VC clearance with RR's seems to be a real issue with our cars, what combination is everyone using to get around this? I have seen that many are putting fox VC's on and taking the inside baffles down some. Are there any combinations that are just bolt on?

I am going to do this myself and want to make sure I minimize the problems with the installation.

Also did you use a pushrod checker when you did your head install or how did you determine the correct length for the pushrods?

Kevin
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
May 15, 2004
#6
  • May 15, 2004
  • #6
Kevin, I beat the crap out of my stock VC's with a ball peen hammer to get them to clear my FMS 1.6 RR's. I did use a pushrod length checker to determine the corrent length, and I had to use 6.300" length rods (stock is 6.272") and various shims to get it just right. I ripped it apart at least 30 times, but it was also the first time I ever messed with the valvetrain too so it was a learning process.
 
9

94droptop

New Member
Jul 7, 2002
24
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0
Maplewood, MN
May 15, 2004
#7
  • May 15, 2004
  • #7
Paul, sounds like it was a PITA, but it looks like the outcome was worth it.

How long did it take you do take everything apart and put it back together the first time?

Does anyone else out there know if there is a VC and RR setup that will just bolt in and clear?
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
May 15, 2004
#8
  • May 15, 2004
  • #8
I think I've heard guys on here say the new magnum rockers from Comp clear, but they are $$$. How long did it take me... about 4 days on just degreeing the cam and setting up the rockers, but I knew NOTHING on how to do it, and most people on the boards knew nothing about degreeing cams in either, so I was held up a lot just trying to find info and see if I was doing it right. Thanks God for Ed C as he helped me through it.
 
9

94droptop

New Member
Jul 7, 2002
24
0
0
Maplewood, MN
May 15, 2004
#9
  • May 15, 2004
  • #9
Sounds like I will have to use the hammer or a grinder to get everything to clear.

I was thinking of getting the Crane energizers you can get them for $189.00 through Summit does anyone know much about them?

And thanks to this board they will price match the Edelbrock Performers #60329's which are the stud mount ones for $999.00.

Also because I know nothing about cams I e-mailed Ed and he told me once the combo was decided on he would help me select the right cam.
 
T

Touring23

Founding Member
Dec 29, 2001
294
0
0
Washington
May 16, 2004
#10
  • May 16, 2004
  • #10
Old Skool 6037s with Cobra 1.7 RR valvetrain and VCs. No hammer necessary.

FWIW, personally I wouldn't commit to a specific rocker until the cam was selected. You might find the cam you want in a 1.7 ratio, for instance the 2031.

Also did you use a pushrod checker when you did your head install or how did you determine the correct length for the pushrods?
Click to expand...
I reused the factory pushrods, and checked for lifter preload as prescribed for a pedestal-mount system. You should note that the P/S pulley needs to be pulled during the swap and it is a booger to get off, no matter which head you select.

I would delay the AFPR purchase since you are planning to use the stock MAF and injectors. Hold onto your cash until you find a need for the AFPR. IMHO. Good luck, hope this helps.
 

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
1,175
0
36
North Carolina
May 16, 2004
#11
  • May 16, 2004
  • #11
You should note that the P/S pulley needs to be pulled during the swap and it is a booger to get off, no matter which head you select.
Click to expand...

I'm also planning a HCI swap next month, any tips on getting this thing off. Can I just rent a pulley puller at Auto Zone?
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
May 16, 2004
#12
  • May 16, 2004
  • #12
Yep, rent it at autozone. I did mine the first time without removing the pulley with an open ended wrench, but it was a PITA. Getting the pulley puller on there isn't easy either as its tight, but it can be done.
 
T

Touring23

Founding Member
Dec 29, 2001
294
0
0
Washington
May 16, 2004
#13
  • May 16, 2004
  • #13
P/S puller: From personal experience, plan ahead, don't try to rent one on the Sunday of a Memorial weekend

(A.K.A. "What's your credit card limit?")
 

HoofnIt

Founding Member
Jan 8, 2001
1,175
0
36
North Carolina
May 16, 2004
#14
  • May 16, 2004
  • #14
Thanks for the advice. I don't mean to hijack the thread but will I have to completely remove my AC to do the swap or can I just move it out of the way? If I have to remove it, then I guess I can take it to a shop so they can take the R134A out?
 
T

Touring23

Founding Member
Dec 29, 2001
294
0
0
Washington
May 16, 2004
#15
  • May 16, 2004
  • #15
Good question. I didn't need to disturb the A/C at all.

Perhaps it would be helpful to start a thread "Head swap procedure"
 
9

94droptop

New Member
Jul 7, 2002
24
0
0
Maplewood, MN
May 16, 2004
#16
  • May 16, 2004
  • #16
HoofnIt I didn't see any hijacking, your questions led to some really good answers.

Touring23 thanks for the information, I am planning to go with the stud mount heads and a custom cam, then in a month or so and then do the MAF. Based on the information I have found on this, the will be necessary until I upgrade the injectors and then after.

Great information from everyone. A head swap procedure sounds like a good idea.
 
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