New here: Some Questions

[MYSC351]

I recently purchased an 89 vert with a 351W.. I will update my profile and add some pics when I finally get the car out of the garage. (The car is currently on jack stands. I removed the lower tubular A-arms and pressed out the balljoints...I'm having a very hard time finding ball joints to fit in the A-arms. The company who built the A-arms went out of business.)

The Short list of parts are:

Engine Mechanical:
D.S.S. "Pro Bullet" short block
Edelbrock intake
Edelbrock heads
Procharger d-1SC supercharger
83 LB injectors
F.A.S.T. fuel management system
MSD ignition

DriveTrain:
Strange performance 9" rear end and all disk brakes
New shortened driveshaft
31 spline axles
5 lug front/rear conversion
B&M short throw shifter

Suspension:
To much to list here...Not relevent at this time.

There's LOTS of other mods. These are just the most relevant to list right now.

My questions are

1.) I'm trying to figure out which 351W block D.S.S. uses for the "pro bullet".. I can't seem to find any information...

2.) The receipts show a Tremec TKO transmission. When I put the car in the air the transmission doesn't appear any beffier than a stock T-5..... The words "Tremec" are stamped into the top left of the housing.. I can't find any other information to find which transmission I have..I think the owner I bought the car from swapped the transmissions before selling the car...How do I confirm this??

3.) Any problems with the aluminim edelbrock heads I need to watch out for? Cracking, warping, etc??

4.) Any problems with the 351W I need to watch out for? I've noticed the front/rear main seals both have slight seepage..I assume this is normal. The D.S.S. website says they use 1 piece main seals..

5.) Any way to tell if this is a roller or non-roller block without tearing into the internals?

6.) I have a very odd charging system problem.. I'm not sure if the alternator is weak, but working or what.
I can fully charge my battery then drive for about 2 hours...My gauge shows battery voltage @ 12.5 Volts..Basically Battery voltage, not charging....I shut the car off and the battery is about 50% dead..12.2-12.4 volts...Not enough to start the engine...If I use a jump pack the engine will start and stay running.
I have tested the battery and the battery is good..Holds and keeps a full charge, even under a load.
The alternator SEEMS good. If I use the jump pack to start the car the alternator is putting out enough amps to keep the car running. It is a 140A alternator from powermaster that was dyno tested and proven to put out a max of 160A @ 5000 RPM under full load.. Finally I tested continuanity from the alternator to the battery.. I have good continuanity so the wiring is good.

I look forward to updating my profile and becoming an active member of the forums.

 

[NKau]

My questions are

1.) I'm trying to figure out which 351W block D.S.S. uses for the "pro bullet".. I can't seem to find any information...

I know for a fact that the blocks they use for the 5.0/302 based motors are nothing more than stock blocks with some DSS script engraved in them.......I can't imagine the 351's are any different.

2.) The receipts show a Tremec TKO transmission. When I put the car in the air the transmission doesn't appear any beffier than a stock T-5..... The words "Tremec" are stamped into the top left of the housing.. I can't find any other information to find which transmission I have..I think the owner I bought the car from swapped the transmissions before selling the car...How do I confirm this??

Can you take a picture of the trans from under the car? Would help a lot.

3.) Any problems with the aluminim edelbrock heads I need to watch out for? Cracking, warping, etc??

Should have no issues with them.

4.) Any problems with the 351W I need to watch out for? I've noticed the front/rear main seals both have slight seepage..I assume this is normal. The D.S.S. website says they use 1 piece main seals..

Should have no trouble if it was put together well, but it kind of depends on how much boost you plan to run.

5.) Any way to tell if this is a roller or non-roller block without tearing into the internals?

Pull the intake off, pull a lifter out, and have a look. Or get some numbers off of the block and post them up. I couldn't tell you where to look for numbers however.

6.) I have a very odd charging system problem.. I'm not sure if the alternator is weak, but working or what.
I can fully charge my battery then drive for about 2 hours...My gauge shows battery voltage @ 12.5 Volts..Basically Battery voltage, not charging....I shut the car off and the battery is about 50% dead..12.2-12.4 volts...Not enough to start the engine...If I use a jump pack the engine will start and stay running.
I have tested the battery and the battery is good..Holds and keeps a full charge, even under a load.
The alternator SEEMS good. If I use the jump pack to start the car the alternator is putting out enough amps to keep the car running. It is a 140A alternator from powermaster that was dyno tested and proven to put out a max of 160A @ 5000 RPM under full load.. Finally I tested continuanity from the alternator to the battery.. I have good continuanity so the wiring is good.

I'm kind of an idiot when it comes to electrical issues, hopefully someone with some knowledge on the subject will post up.

Sounds like a fun ride you've got.

 

[MYSC351]

I know for a fact that the blocks they use for the 5.0/302 based motors are nothing more than stock blocks with some DSS script engraved in them.......I can't imagine the 351's are any different.

Thanks

Can you take a picture of the trans from under the car? Would help a lot.

I took some pictures, but didn't plan on going under the car when I put the jacks up so they may not turn out.. I'm looking for some drivers online so I can upload my pictures off of my Canon..

Should have no trouble if it was put together well, but it kind of depends on how much boost you plan to run.

The other owner said 12 P.S.I.... I've never seen the boost gauge go over 10... I'm having some intermittant issues with the gauge....It's an Autometer, so I don't know if the meter is the problem or the wiring.

Pull the intake off, pull a lifter out, and have a look. Or get some numbers off of the block and post them up. I couldn't tell you where to look for numbers however.

I was trying not to open anything up this year. Will probably do that this winter, but if I'm lucky enough I won't have to touch the internals this year...Maybe a call to D.S.S. will yield better results.

Sounds like a fun ride you've got.

Thanks.

I'll post some pics up as soon as I find some drivers.

 

[1991vert]

in regards to the "tremec" on the transmission, mine said the same. when i questioned this, they said borg warner stopped making t-5's and tremec took over. FWIW i purchased a WC t-5 at the time with tremec stamped on it

 

[MYSC351]

in regards to the "tremec" on the transmission, mine said the same. when i questioned this, they said borg warner stopped making t-5's and tremec took over. FWIW i purchased a WC t-5 at the time with tremec stamped on it

I knew Tremec took over. Just wish I knew an easy way to identify mine. I have all receipts from the original owner, but I'm thinking the previous owner swapped the TKO out for a stock T-5 and kept it for himself...

I'm uploading the pics up to cardomain now.

 

[1991vert]

I knew Tremec took over. Just wish I knew an easy way to identify mine. I have all receipts from the original owner, but I'm thinking the previous owner swapped the TKO out for a stock T-5 and kept it for himself...

I'm uploading the pics up to cardomain now.

too bad you cant go pull the driveshaft and count the splines...tko's had more than a stock t-5

 

[MYSC351]

I had to severely scale down the pictures. They where 2 1/2 megs each, so if you need higher quality to see the transmission better let me know, I'll e-mail them to you.

Here's a few of the car, engine bay and interior...Beleive me the red looks tacky in the pics, but in person it blends nicely.

Here's the dam A-arm that I'm having troubles with. I've tried every brand of ball joint and all have a slightly different diameter..
This one is about 20 thousandths to big and won't press in, even with heat to the A-arm and a grinder on the ball joint.
My next step is a machine shop to see if they can't cut the A-arm to get the ball joint to fit...Company out of business FTL

 

[MYSC351]

too bad you cant go pull the driveshaft and count the splines...tko's had more than a stock t-5

I work at a shop, so as soon as I get these control arms fixed It would be pretty easy to throw the car in the air and pull the driveshaft...If that will help me I'll do it.
How many should it have?

 

[NIKwoaC]

It doesn't look like a T-5. It kinda does look like a TKO. Google some pictures of TKOs and T-5s. The pictures you posted aren't very descriptive, but my guess is its not a T-5.

 

[1991vert]

t-5's are 28 spline and TKO's are 31 spline

 

[MYSC351]

Thanks for the help guys. As soon as I get the ball joints in I'll get it up on a lift and pull the driveshaft.

 

[MYSC351]

Yup It's a TKO. Thanks.