I recently purchased an 89 vert with a 351W.. I will update my profile and add some pics when I finally get the car out of the garage. (The car is currently on jack stands. I removed the lower tubular A-arms and pressed out the balljoints...I'm having a very hard time finding ball joints to fit in the A-arms. The company who built the A-arms went out of business.)
The Short list of parts are:
Engine Mechanical:
D.S.S. "Pro Bullet" short block
Edelbrock intake
Edelbrock heads
Procharger d-1SC supercharger
83 LB injectors
F.A.S.T. fuel management system
MSD ignition
DriveTrain:
Strange performance 9" rear end and all disk brakes
New shortened driveshaft
31 spline axles
5 lug front/rear conversion
B&M short throw shifter
Suspension:
To much to list here...Not relevent at this time.
There's LOTS of other mods. These are just the most relevant to list right now.
My questions are
1.) I'm trying to figure out which 351W block D.S.S. uses for the "pro bullet".. I can't seem to find any information...
2.) The receipts show a Tremec TKO transmission. When I put the car in the air the transmission doesn't appear any beffier than a stock T-5..... The words "Tremec" are stamped into the top left of the housing.. I can't find any other information to find which transmission I have..I think the owner I bought the car from swapped the transmissions before selling the car...How do I confirm this??
3.) Any problems with the aluminim edelbrock heads I need to watch out for? Cracking, warping, etc??
4.) Any problems with the 351W I need to watch out for? I've noticed the front/rear main seals both have slight seepage..I assume this is normal. The D.S.S. website says they use 1 piece main seals..
5.) Any way to tell if this is a roller or non-roller block without tearing into the internals?
6.) I have a very odd charging system problem.. I'm not sure if the alternator is weak, but working or what.
I can fully charge my battery then drive for about 2 hours...My gauge shows battery voltage @ 12.5 Volts..Basically Battery voltage, not charging....I shut the car off and the battery is about 50% dead..12.2-12.4 volts...Not enough to start the engine...If I use a jump pack the engine will start and stay running.
I have tested the battery and the battery is good..Holds and keeps a full charge, even under a load.
The alternator SEEMS good. If I use the jump pack to start the car the alternator is putting out enough amps to keep the car running. It is a 140A alternator from powermaster that was dyno tested and proven to put out a max of 160A @ 5000 RPM under full load.. Finally I tested continuanity from the alternator to the battery.. I have good continuanity so the wiring is good.
I look forward to updating my profile and becoming an active member of the forums.
The Short list of parts are:
Engine Mechanical:
D.S.S. "Pro Bullet" short block
Edelbrock intake
Edelbrock heads
Procharger d-1SC supercharger
83 LB injectors
F.A.S.T. fuel management system
MSD ignition
DriveTrain:
Strange performance 9" rear end and all disk brakes
New shortened driveshaft
31 spline axles
5 lug front/rear conversion
B&M short throw shifter
Suspension:
To much to list here...Not relevent at this time.
There's LOTS of other mods. These are just the most relevant to list right now.
My questions are
1.) I'm trying to figure out which 351W block D.S.S. uses for the "pro bullet".. I can't seem to find any information...
2.) The receipts show a Tremec TKO transmission. When I put the car in the air the transmission doesn't appear any beffier than a stock T-5..... The words "Tremec" are stamped into the top left of the housing.. I can't find any other information to find which transmission I have..I think the owner I bought the car from swapped the transmissions before selling the car...How do I confirm this??
3.) Any problems with the aluminim edelbrock heads I need to watch out for? Cracking, warping, etc??
4.) Any problems with the 351W I need to watch out for? I've noticed the front/rear main seals both have slight seepage..I assume this is normal. The D.S.S. website says they use 1 piece main seals..
5.) Any way to tell if this is a roller or non-roller block without tearing into the internals?
6.) I have a very odd charging system problem.. I'm not sure if the alternator is weak, but working or what.
I can fully charge my battery then drive for about 2 hours...My gauge shows battery voltage @ 12.5 Volts..Basically Battery voltage, not charging....I shut the car off and the battery is about 50% dead..12.2-12.4 volts...Not enough to start the engine...If I use a jump pack the engine will start and stay running.
I have tested the battery and the battery is good..Holds and keeps a full charge, even under a load.
The alternator SEEMS good. If I use the jump pack to start the car the alternator is putting out enough amps to keep the car running. It is a 140A alternator from powermaster that was dyno tested and proven to put out a max of 160A @ 5000 RPM under full load.. Finally I tested continuanity from the alternator to the battery.. I have good continuanity so the wiring is good.
I look forward to updating my profile and becoming an active member of the forums.