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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

new issue w/ the 68. help needed.

  • Thread starter Thread starter okcop
  • Start date Start date Nov 4, 2007
O

okcop

New Member
Aug 1, 2007
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Nov 4, 2007
#1
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #1
Just when I get one issue resolved another rears it's ugly head (welcome to the world of 40 year old cars I guess). Here's the new issue. When I turn the key, the engine turns over, cranks, starts etc...........but as soon as I release the key back to the middle position the car dies. So I try again, sounds like its going to start right up and appears to do so as long as the key is turned all the way forward while I'm starting it. As soon as I let go of the key, it dies. This goes on and on. At one point I turned the key and gave it a little gas (holding the key in the start position) for about 25 seconds. The car remained running the engine continued to crank and the engine sounded like it was running........as soon as I let go of the key, dead! Is this an ignition module issue? That is my first thought. Any ideas. Thanks guys. You all are always a great help.
 
J

jmlay71

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 16, 2003
67
1
9
Nov 4, 2007
#2
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #2
Make sure the 2 wires to the small posts of the starter solenoid are not swapped.

Mike
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
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Arizona
Nov 4, 2007
#3
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #3
I had similar behavior with a bad starter solenoid. I had never seen a starter solenoid act that way, but alas, a new one cured the problem. They're only $10 so it's worth a try if you swap the 2 wires and that doesn't solve the problem.
 
O

okcop

New Member
Aug 1, 2007
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0
Nov 4, 2007
#4
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #4
This issue just started and the solenoid hasn't been messed with. Can this problem just start out of the blue? I have a new solenoid because I was told when I bought the car to have an extra on hand.

I just had a buddy of mine tell me it could be the ignition switch iteslf.
 

DLFD911

New Member
Nov 1, 2004
2
0
0
Fort Wayne, Indiana
Nov 4, 2007
#5
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #5
I have also seen this issue with ignition switches. It was a bad contact inside, I think.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
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49
Arizona
Nov 4, 2007
#6
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #6
Ignition switch is definitely a possibility. I'd hook up your other starter solenoid first since it's super easy to do and then if it still doesn't work you'll need to look at the ignition switch.
 

BarnStang

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
1,260
3
39
Hagerstown, MD
Nov 4, 2007
#7
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #7
Looking at the diagram for the 68, if it's running with the key in the start position, then it should be getting power from the solinoid. The coil does not get power from the solinoid in the run position. That comes from the resistor wire begining at the ign switch. You can test this by running a hot wire from your pos batt term to the + side of the coil and start it up. Should run ok. You will need to see where you are losing the ign feed from the switch I think.
I attached a page on the wiring but I still struggle trying to get pictures to fit. It's probably too small now to be of any use.
 

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okcop

New Member
Aug 1, 2007
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Nov 4, 2007
#8
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #8
I appreciate it guys, keep the opinions and suggestions coming. I really appreciate the diagram BarnStang. It's small, but I think It will work. Thanks again Guys!!!!!
 

BarnStang

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
1,260
3
39
Hagerstown, MD
Nov 5, 2007
#9
  • Nov 5, 2007
  • #9
I can email you the bigger one. PM me an email addrss and I will send it in the morning. Someday I'll figure out how people put huge pictures in the thread...

If you have a test light, you should be able to track it down pretty quick. I would suspect the ign switch first. There should only be the one connecter right there at the firewall between theswitch and the coil.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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Nov 6, 2007
#10
  • Nov 6, 2007
  • #10
You said you just fixed something. What was it that you just fixed ?

At this point I'm leaning towards the ignition switch itself. I would test it with a multimeter in the regular run possition and see if it is puting voltage out in the right places.
 
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