New longer threaded spark plug

[2013 Geee T]

I remember reading a post about a new Motorcraft spark plug for our cars with a longer thread. I want to change mine and actually think one is getting ready to blow. Is there a new plug of this type and if so does anyone know the part number?

If not should I just go with Motorcraft copper plugs or do the platinums again?

 

[2013 Geee T]

I just found the part number in an email I sent to myself from work. Does it ring a bell?

AGSF-32C
have a larger shoulder where they meet the heads preventing spark plug back-out

 

[2013 Geee T]

Nobody has the plug in stock. Even the dealers have to order them! Maybe I will just tighten them for now.

 

[Dope 97GT]

I tighten mine about any month anyway. The previous owner of my car had 2 blown out so I am always keeping an eye on them. 10 mins could save a major hassle.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I just found the part number in an email I sent to myself from work. Does it ring a bell?

AGSF-32C
have a larger shoulder where they meet the heads preventing spark plug back-out

The 32C is an old plug. It's been around since 1991 and is not the redesigned plug. It's just a copper version of the stock plug.

 

[2013 Geee T]

Does anyone know what the part number for the new plug is?

 

[TGJ]

There has always been a full thread and half thread spark plug available for the 4.6.

The AGSF32C is the full thread spark plug, stock temp range. I have 8 AGSF22C that I won't use and are brand new. These are full thread, one temp range colder than stock. The full thread plugs are for the SVO( FRPP ) heads and they can be used in NPI and PI heads.

The half thread spark plug part number is AWSF32C.

 

[MBDiagMan]

I don't have the exact part number handy, but using a plug with more threads accomplishes NOTHING. You still will only use the number of threads in the head.

Use the EXACT motorcraft plug for your car. Remove them with the engine dead cold, use a VERY LIGHT coat of Copper based anti-sieze compound on the threads and tighten them to 13 and certainly no more than 18 foot pounds. Don't twist them in by hand. USE A TORQUE WRENCH!

Good luck.

 

[nwapache]

I don't have the exact part number handy, but using a plug with more threads accomplishes NOTHING. You still will only use the number of threads in the head.
+1....who cares about the plug....its the head that gets stripped!!!

Use the EXACT motorcraft plug for your car. Remove them with the engine dead cold, use a VERY LIGHT coat of Copper based anti-sieze compound on the threads and tighten them to 13 and certainly no more than 18 foot pounds. Don't twist them in by hand. USE A TORQUE WRENCH!

-1 DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE...when mine blew out, I talked to Tim about it (MPH) and the first thing he told me was NO ANTI SEIZE

Good luck.

 

[MBDiagMan]

You will be okay without anti-sieze as long as you torque them to about 13 ft. lbs. The COPPER based anti-sieze does a great job with heat transfer as long as you use a VERY thin coat and don't get any on the plug beyond the threads.

The anti-sieze is not there for its anti sieze function, it is there for heat transfer.

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

alot of mis-information in this thread. 1st off, we have the plugs in stock if you need them, they ARE NOT longer. second is the anti-size is there to pre-vent galling of the metal plug to the aluminum head, not for "heat transfer."

FoMoCo used a 1/2 thread design plug (on most models) and the aftermarket (champion, autolite, ngk) all made there replacement plugs in a "full thread" design and after many years the light-bulb went off at FoMoCo and they redisigned ther 1/2 thread plugs to now be "full thread design". the old 1/2 thread plugs had the letter designation of "AW" as in AWSF-32C now the new full thread plugs use the "AG" designation ie: AGSF-32C same performance out of the plug, same length just now a full thread design now

 

[WashburnGT]

I don't have the exact part number handy, but using a plug with more threads accomplishes NOTHING. You still will only use the number of threads in the head.

Im not sure if you're right about using the same number of threads. I didnt count
how many threads were in the head when I installed my TR6s, but it seemed
that there were more on the head than were being utilized by the stock plugs.
Even if the plug does have more threads than is on the head it is an
improvement.
If the stuck plug tries to back out there is nothing under the
threaded part of the head to try and hold it in, as far as the plug goes. With a
longer threaded plug, there would be more plug threads past the ones in the
head to try and keep the plug in place. Thats my take on it anyway.
Of course no ammount of threads will help all those muscle men out there
trying to tighten their plugs down as hard as they can.

alot of mis-information in this thread.

so you're telling me this has nothing to do with my blinker fluid?
Sorry I couldn't resist.

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

Im not sure if you're right about using the same number of threads. I didnt count
how many threads were in the head when I installed my TR6s, but it seemed
that there were more on the head than were being utilized by the stock plugs.
Even if the plug does have more threads than is on the head it is an
improvement.
If the stuck plug tries to back out there is nothing under the
threaded part of the head to try and hold it in, as far as the plug goes. With a
longer threaded plug, there would be more plug threads past the ones in the
head to try and keep the plug in place. Thats my take on it anyway.
Of course no ammount of threads will help all those muscle men out there
trying to tighten their plugs down as hard as they can.



so you're telling me this has nothing to do with my blinker fluid?
Sorry I couldn't resist.

only if you use the amber fluid, if you use the clear blinker fluid you will be fine

 

[Mike97gt]

only if you use the amber fluid, if you use the clear blinker fluid you will be fine

I use the new glow in the dark pimp style blinker fluid.

no matter what plug you use anti seize or no antiseize just tourqe them down to spec and check them every few months. I know this sucks to have to do this but atleast our plugs are easy to get to. Just think you could be doing plugs on a LT-1 camaro

 

[stangGT97]

no matter what plug you use anti seize or no antiseize just tourqe them down to spec and check them every few months. I know this sucks to have to do this but atleast our plugs are easy to get to. Just think you could be doing plugs on a LT-1 camaro

yeah, or changing the Optispark dizzy out. My buddy started to do that... but his car has now been apart for over a year

Spark plugs on the 4.6 are ridiculous easy to get at, I can do plugs and wires on my car in less time than it takes to do it on my friends 6-cyl ranger.

 

[Mike97gt]

yeah, or changing the Optispark dizzy out. My buddy started to do that... but his car has now been apart for over a year

Spark plugs on the 4.6 are ridiculous easy to get at, I can do plugs and wires on my car in less time than it takes to do it on my friends 6-cyl ranger.

yeah that optispark dizzy was a great idea LOL my friend is afraid to wash his car becaus ehe has had so many of them go bad.

 

[stangGT97]

yeah that optispark dizzy was a great idea LOL my friend is afraid to wash his car becaus ehe has had so many of them go bad.

classic. just tell him to shrink wrap the whole engine prior to spraying the car down

 

[Stang|ess]

yeah, or changing the Optispark dizzy out. My buddy started to do that... but his car has now been apart for over a year

Spark plugs on the 4.6 are ridiculous easy to get at, I can do plugs and wires on my car in less time than it takes to do it on my friends 6-cyl ranger.

except the last one. you know which one im talking about

 

[stangGT97]

except the last one. you know which one im talking about

no sir, I do not recall. With the STB and air box off, they're all cake. But if you leave the air box attached to the TB, then it becomes tricky.

 

[2013 Geee T]

I checked my plugs and at 50k miles they are as tight as a (fill in the blank) and didnt appear to budge at all.


How often should you change the wires?