stanggt1995 is right , get a remanufactured distributor and throw in it , might wanna get a new coil for good measure as well , since you have replaced everything else from the sound of it .......its definitely the pickup in the distributor though ......
Something I did notice was that right after it died, it wouldn't start. It would turn over, but act like it was not getting fuel, or was flooded out. It just tried and tried but wouldn't start. Fuel was flowing though. After a few minutes it would fire right up.
Yep, exactly what mine would do. I would have to pull over when it did this and wait a few minutes for the fuel bowl to fill up enough to start. Even then, it would act terrible until I let it sit and completely cool. Then it would run fine for a while. I could get it to happen almost every time by winding out first and second gear when the car had warmed up due to draining of the bowl. In fact, it got to the point that it would happen every morning when I got on the interstate after a 15 minute ride.
I was talking fuel vapor lock. I had the same setup - the stock mechanical on the timing cover. My glass filter also looked to have fuel. I think it was because of how I had it angled.
For a temporary troubleshoot, you could throw in one of the generic electric pumps where the fuel lines come in at the driver's side frame at the steering column/knuckle. Splice the rubber line, mount it to the bolt that holds the clutch cable to the frame, then find switched 12V to power it.
As far as no heat, this could be a number of things. Yet, I do not think it is related at all. Even if you had a thermostat stuck open, I cannot see it making the engine act this way. Your no heat could first be that the heater core is stopped up (common). Take the heater hoses off and run pressurised water backwards through the heater core.
Coils are cheap replacements (~$35), but I don't think this is the problem. The coil's resistance (both primary and secondary) should be checked cold and hot. There should not be much deviance. Do you know the numbers?
I know where your coming from Camman. The "computer" on these cars are real basic and not much inside to go bad. I think the original one allowed moisture into it and it crapped out.
I got a new coil (not installed yet) and all the vacuum lines are suppose to be good, but I haven't personally checked them. I'm getting a new distributor for the Falcon $44 at O"Reilly) so I might as well get one for the 'stang ($49). After 300k an 21 years it might need a new one.
So the new ECM went on 2 weekends ago. Seamed to perk it up some. My bro-in-law drove it to town to his brothers. They put the new coil on and it also seemed to help (not sure how old the first one was). They drove it around town for a while and it ran great. Then it crapped out again. This time it didn't want to start after sitting for 10 min. I could get 2-3 miles at a time before, but they only got 10-15 feet at a time. He pointed out that when they were installing the new parts they noticed the wiring was not in the best of shape. They cut back some wires until they found copper without a lovely green hue. Other wires had brittle sheathing. I know it is important to have good wiring, but could this be the culprit? Maybe by messing with the wires they made the problem more prevalent?