Just got through installing a few mods today so I'll list what they are and what I think about them.
1. Finally upgraded to an Accufab 70mm TB. The stocker came off with no problem and the TPS screws came right off with no problem. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a phillips bit and had no problems getting the screws to break loose. I had an issue with the densecharger intake as the joint between the TB and intake has 2 sizes, one to fit a 75mm TB and an insert that goes in to fit the stocker. I had to stretch the insert around the TB and wiggle the intake onto the TB/insert. Out on the road, it felt like it had a little more pickup especially in the upper rpm's, and I had no idle issues.
2. MM LCA's. Stuck in these. Again these went in with no problem. The biggest headache putting these in was unbolting the catback so I could move the mufflers aside just enough to get the front mounting bolt out. I didn't have the benifit of a lift to do this, so I had jackstands on the rear frame and a jack supporting the axle. On each side, when putting the rear axle bolt through the lca, I had to use another jack(spare tire) on the pinion area to help pull the axle back in place. Out on the road, the rear of the car feels more stable and tracks exactly where you point it. Launching, the car just squats and goes.
3. FRPP aluminum driveshaft. Very easy to install. Unbolt the old shaft from the pinion and pull the shaft out of the tranny. Line up the master spline onthe new shaft and it slides right on the tranny. Install and torque the bolts to the pinion flange and you're done. This took away the clunkiness from the rear end when transitioning from letting off of the gas and getting back on it again. There's also less noise transferred from the rearend and it also feels smoother when cruising down the road.
4. Steeda underdrive pulleys. Easy to install. Just followed the instructions and it took a total of maybe 45 minutes. Was real careful putting on the crank pulley as you use a longer bolt to start the pulley and then switch to the proper bolt. Basically I just went slowly until the longer bolt stopped turning with just a little pressure and then switched bolts and torqued it down. You'll need a little silicone gasked maker to seal the crank wodruff key slot so you don't have an oil leak. The other pulleys are basically an unbolt and swap deal with nothing special about changing them. Driving the car after this felt like it accelerated a little better. I'm sure I picked up something, but the jury is still out on the sotp meter.
5. AMW air oil separator. I acutally added this a while ago, but since I'm writing about the other stuff I'll throw this in. This thing works great! Yeah it's a little pricey, but for how it works, it was worth it to me. You can read about it http://www.accmachtech.com/pcvcatchcans.htm
I fabbed up a mount bracket and fit it right next to the power steering reservoir. The same time I did this, I cleaned out the plenum with some carb cleaner and ran a can of seafoam
through it. Well, about 4,000 miles later when I changed the TB, there was NO oil residue in the plenum. Just a little dusting of black soot from the EGR. I couldn't tell, but I'm sure the engine runs better without ingesting all of the oil from the pcv. I just open the petcock on the bottom of the can every month and drain out the collected oil. Takes 30 seconds start to finish. Here's a couple pics of the catch can.
It's the small black can between the upper radiator hose and the power steering reservoir. Says "AMW" on it.
All in all, I'm very satisfied with how things turn out. The car definately feels more powerful and smoother. Next week I'll have some MM subframes welded in and then I'll be done for a while. Can't wait to see what they will do for the car.
1. Finally upgraded to an Accufab 70mm TB. The stocker came off with no problem and the TPS screws came right off with no problem. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a phillips bit and had no problems getting the screws to break loose. I had an issue with the densecharger intake as the joint between the TB and intake has 2 sizes, one to fit a 75mm TB and an insert that goes in to fit the stocker. I had to stretch the insert around the TB and wiggle the intake onto the TB/insert. Out on the road, it felt like it had a little more pickup especially in the upper rpm's, and I had no idle issues.
2. MM LCA's. Stuck in these. Again these went in with no problem. The biggest headache putting these in was unbolting the catback so I could move the mufflers aside just enough to get the front mounting bolt out. I didn't have the benifit of a lift to do this, so I had jackstands on the rear frame and a jack supporting the axle. On each side, when putting the rear axle bolt through the lca, I had to use another jack(spare tire) on the pinion area to help pull the axle back in place. Out on the road, the rear of the car feels more stable and tracks exactly where you point it. Launching, the car just squats and goes.
3. FRPP aluminum driveshaft. Very easy to install. Unbolt the old shaft from the pinion and pull the shaft out of the tranny. Line up the master spline onthe new shaft and it slides right on the tranny. Install and torque the bolts to the pinion flange and you're done. This took away the clunkiness from the rear end when transitioning from letting off of the gas and getting back on it again. There's also less noise transferred from the rearend and it also feels smoother when cruising down the road.
4. Steeda underdrive pulleys. Easy to install. Just followed the instructions and it took a total of maybe 45 minutes. Was real careful putting on the crank pulley as you use a longer bolt to start the pulley and then switch to the proper bolt. Basically I just went slowly until the longer bolt stopped turning with just a little pressure and then switched bolts and torqued it down. You'll need a little silicone gasked maker to seal the crank wodruff key slot so you don't have an oil leak. The other pulleys are basically an unbolt and swap deal with nothing special about changing them. Driving the car after this felt like it accelerated a little better. I'm sure I picked up something, but the jury is still out on the sotp meter.
5. AMW air oil separator. I acutally added this a while ago, but since I'm writing about the other stuff I'll throw this in. This thing works great! Yeah it's a little pricey, but for how it works, it was worth it to me. You can read about it http://www.accmachtech.com/pcvcatchcans.htm
I fabbed up a mount bracket and fit it right next to the power steering reservoir. The same time I did this, I cleaned out the plenum with some carb cleaner and ran a can of seafoam
through it. Well, about 4,000 miles later when I changed the TB, there was NO oil residue in the plenum. Just a little dusting of black soot from the EGR. I couldn't tell, but I'm sure the engine runs better without ingesting all of the oil from the pcv. I just open the petcock on the bottom of the can every month and drain out the collected oil. Takes 30 seconds start to finish. Here's a couple pics of the catch can.
It's the small black can between the upper radiator hose and the power steering reservoir. Says "AMW" on it.
All in all, I'm very satisfied with how things turn out. The car definately feels more powerful and smoother. Next week I'll have some MM subframes welded in and then I'll be done for a while. Can't wait to see what they will do for the car.
