New motor in car, It wont Start HELP ASAP!!!

Are you sure the Lincoln motor is a 5.0 HO and not a regular 5.0? The low output 5.0 had a different firing order, and so it would not start with the plug wires aranged for a HO. A bad mass air meter wouldn't cause it not to start, well shouldn't anyway. But I suppose it is still possible, try it witht he meter unplugged. Also, did the engine run in the lincoln?

I too, assume that your motor does not have the 5.0 firing order.

Assuming that you have checked for spark and fuel, then I assume that you have the injectors and the dist in the firing order.

Take some time to veriify that everything lines up.

Before ruling it out, take a few minutes to check it out.

Sometimes those distributors can be really tricky. Keep trying that. And try the non HO firing order, just in case. I have seen a friened reshoot his disributor at least 20 times, then finally convinced him to put it in 180* off, and that solved the problem. I guess sometimes you're not on the compression stroke when you think you are.

though i bet you know it, sometimes a list can jog memories. courtesy of Jrichker:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=3811604&postcount=4

good luck.

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe -& hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

4.) Spark & fuel OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order form the non HO engines.

A non HO motor with the wires hooked up with HO order will still run. I did it one time.

Stupid question, but did you make sure the little salt and pepper shaker looking things, behind the intake are pluged in? When I did my motor swap I forgot that, its the fuel injector harness. Just a thought.

If you follow the checklist, it will help you fix 95% of the cranks OK but no start problems.

The spraying ether usually makes the car run badly, it is just a trick to see if you have fuel management problems or an ignition problem. It sounds like a fuel managment problem, since the car will fire off when you do the ether trick. Concentrate on the fuel management items on the checklist.

Use a pressure gauge to look for fuel pressure. A tire pressure gauge appliled to the schrader valve will work in a pinch if you don't have a regular FP gauge.

The computer will shut off the injectors after prolonged cranking OR if you press the throttle wide open.

A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring. I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

There are two 10 pin connectors at the back of the upper manifold, one of them has all 8 injector connections. Pull them apart and check for damage. Each injector should ohm out at about 13 ohms +\- 1.5 ohms.

Remember that the computer supplies a ground path for the injectors. The power for the injectors comes through the ECC relay located on top of the computer. They have power to them any time the ignition is on. The computer turns on the ground and completes the circuit, making the injectors fire. . Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts when the ignition switch is on. No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold). No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Another thought - the HO computer will not work with a non HO engine and the same is true of a non HO computer- it won't work with an HO engine. As long as you have an HO engine from a Lincoln LSC you are OK in that department.

Did you pull the distributor out of the engine on install by any chance? I remember when i did my motor, i put my distributor in 180 out, didnt want to start at all, just turned over. Then put it in "right" and got one tooth off, extremely hard to start.... ran really badly, and when i hit the gas it would really hesitate and would not rev... Thats just the after affects of having the distributor one tooth off... So make sure it is on the right tooth, if not, you probably wouldnt start, or it would run really badly.... hope this helped.

IndyBlk5.0 said:

Did you pull the distributor out of the engine on install by any chance? I remember when i did my motor, i put my distributor in 180 out, didnt want to start at all, just turned over. Then put it in "right" and got one tooth off, extremely hard to start.... ran really badly, and when i hit the gas it would really hesitate and would not rev... Thats just the after affects of having the distributor one tooth off... So make sure it is on the right tooth, if not, you probably wouldnt start, or it would run really badly.... hope this helped.

Click to expand...

This "One Tooth off" thing has been debated and debunked here on Stangnet more times than I can count. There is no such thing as "one tooth off" as long as you can make the timing marks line up when you put the timing light on the engine and set the timing. That's why the distributor rotates in its mount so you can make the marks line up. Anyone who tries to install a distributor without using a timing light to set the timing is bound to be off by several degrees or more, either late or early.

jrichker said:

This "One Tooth off" thing has been debated and debunked here on Stangnet more times than I can count. There is no such thing as "one tooth off" as long as you can make the timing marks line up when you put the timing light on the engine and set the timing. That's why the distributor rotates in its mount so you can make the marks line up. Anyone who tries to install a distributor without using a timing light to set the timing is bound to be off by several degrees or more, either late or early.

Click to expand...

I agree with you, but here we go again. This damn topic of one tooth will never die.

just calm down and recheck everything. If you dont have the interest anymore, get a bud to do it for you (bud,bro,pops whomever). A fresh set of eyes may help. Let them go at it their own way so they can find what you missed (if anything).

Too bad NM is so damn far away. I have some money burning up my pockets. I would love to find a cheap car.

I read one post where ALL of the guys's injectors were clogged. See if you can't borrow or find another set of injectors.

If you have some extra time... try this. Pop the valve covers and hand crank the motor over starting at cylinder 1 at tdc. watch the intake valve open then close. follow this proceedure for the next moving intake valve. Write donw the order and this should tell you wether or not you have an HO cam or not. I forget the 2 timming sequences offhand, but i am sure someone has them and will be nice enough to post to help you out. Then according to the dictation of the valve, wire the cap accordingly.

The bone dry and soak plugged throw a flag too. I would be sure that all connections are good on the injectors, maybe clean them with some contact cleaner and regrease with dielectric grease. also take a peep at the 10 pins and make sure they are clean and grease them up too. And if you have time, pop the injectors and make sure they arent clogged up (my van's fuel rail rusted out and clogged the injectors, now it hesitates a tad, but i am still driving it till i can find some new ones).

Let us know how u make out guy. Just go through and recheck every wire with a bud as noted by a few people, it will pay off in the end.