New motor in car, It wont Start HELP ASAP!!!

[HISSIN50]

i think Jrichker posted recently about testing injectors with soapy water and a compressor?????? if interested, search his name for it. was pretty recent i think (unless i came across it in a search. cant remember).

now might be a good time to play with a noid light. if you have no fuel getting in, gotta determine if it is from lack of juice/ground (should be easy with Jrichker's info above) or the injectors themselves. or i just re-read Jrichker's post. sounds like you can test for 12 volts to the injector circuit with a VOM. still need the noid light to check ground (dont know of another way).

good luck.

 

[351wRusty]

ok..this same kind of thing happened to a friend of mines fuel injected bronco..302..did a complete overhaul and a bunch of other work then got the engine in and it would not run..had the scan tools on it and qualified mechanics over there..you could spray ether or gas right into the intake and it would fire up and run like absolute crap and pop and stuff just then die...sounds like about what your sayin..i wasnt there when they figured it out..but i Believe it was the throttle position sensor that was screwed..ill try check on that for sure for ya tomo..but its sounds really similar..

 

[5.0 Mustang Man]

Well I just put another set of injectors in and it is still only getting fuel to two cylinders. I pulled all plugs and only 1 and 3 had fuel on them. I have fuel pressure, have checked all fuses and fusible links, pretty much everything. The fuel is just not going throught the injectors and I dont think the injectors are the problem because I have tried 3 sets. What else could it be? I'm going to go check the tps sensor now. I'm stumped and I'm starting to get very mad. Thanks for the help.

 

[jrichker]

Injector Wiring and computer problems are where you are now. Follow the tip about determining which firing order you have by watching the valves as they open. On HO engines cylinder #3 will open the intake valve after cylinder #1. ON Non HO engines cylinder #5 will open the intake valve after cylinder #1. Why is this important? Because the computer tells the injectors to squirt fuel when the valve opens. Put a HO computer with a non HO engine and the HO computer will squirt fuel when the valve isn't open. The only cylinders that will get any fuel are #1, #2, #6 and #8 cylinders.

HO firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non Ho firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

 

[5.0 Mustang Man]

OK, I will do that but it has a high output intake on it and it had the wires in the high output order so wouldnt that mean it is a high output motor? If I dont figure this out soon, i think I'm going to throw a carb on the damn thing!

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

jrickter, i was using it in my case... i didnt have a timing pointer, the person that built the engine before me evidently didn't think it was necessary, car ran fine. we used the notch on the block to find around where the correct timing would be, but ended up not being close becuase it was one tooth off. this was in my situation... i was going in blind, but knew where to put the distributor according to the mark on the block... i realize it is not a problem with a timing light... but a timing light was useless in my case and i couldnt find a timing pointer anywhere, waited a week and just decided to fish around with it myself. got it running great

 

[jrichker]

Check the firing order by watching the valve opening if there is any doubt in your mind.

Use a noid light or the injector test setup to watch the injectors fire and test each injector. Make sure you have 12 volts at each injector.

While you are moving parts around, swap the coil. I had one that ran intermittently and it turned out to be a bad coil. Just enough spark to fool you as you watched it jump when the engine was cranked, but not enough to run under it's own power.

 

[BAERSysteMAX]

The car did run before the swap... ?

I would say try and clean the 10 pins and make sure that you have good connections on the injectors. Also check to see that you have a good ground for the harness to the bell housing (the orange wire stickin out he harness) and the ground strap from the motor to the firewall is good too.

When you pulled the harness off the 91's motor, you didnt rip too hard in the wires going to the plugs, i am thinkin you might have pulled them apart where the wire connects to the metal tabs inside. And you are using the 91's harness on this motor rite ?

 

[5.0 Mustang Man]

I checked the firing order through the valves and it is a high output motor. Yes, it ran fine before the swap. I'm using the 91's, harness right now. I got another injector harness from a friend last night and I'm going to try that later today when I get home. I don't really think that will help, but I will try anything at this point. The only other thing I can think that can be the problem would be the computer and I dont know why it would go bad just sitting there for 3 months. Either that or all three sets of injectors I have used are bad. I also find that to be very unlikely. I will let everyone know tonight if anything worked. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[5.0 Mustang Man]

!!!!!!!!!!!CAR IS RUNNING!!!!!!!!! I changed the injector wiring harnees with the extra one my friend gave me and it started right up. It runs pretty damn good to. I got it all running good, took it out and ran right with some convertible LX on the street. he had P heads, cobra intake, b cam, and all bolt ons. All i have is gears, long tubes, and flowmasters. Needless to say, I'm pretty happy with the Lincoln motor now!!!! Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[CobraWannabe]

Sweet! Good to hear you got it running.