New radio, but no sound

Just personal preference and years of doing car audio (worked in the industry) bypass all the factory speaker wiring (especially the OEM amps) and put some oxygen free 16 ga wire from the head unit or amp to wherever you are installing to the speakers. The wiring in these cars is old and might be 20 ga on a good day and is not a fine strand wire which most folks like for car audio. I have rewired cars that were using the stock wires on a head unit speaker only install with good aftermarket speaker wire and the difference is very noticeable.

If you are wanting to run speakers in the dash and doors then you really only have a couple of choices. You can run components with the tweeters in the dash and the midrange in the door with the passive crossovers up under the dash. I would strongly suggest that you use an amp with a high pass crossover set at about 80 to 100 Hz depending on the mid range size. With components a head unit just do not have the power for good results. If you are going to run full range 3-1/2" speakers in the dash and either 5-1/4" or 6-1/2" speakers in the door you should wire them in parallel and you will need a capacitor on the positive lead of the 3-1/2" dash speaker that will cut the bass off. I like a 33 microfarad capacitor as it cuts anything out below 600 Hz and keeps the smaller speaker from bottoming out and the sound going to crap. What this will do is from the 600 Hz frequency range and up the amp will see a higher load as from this point up the load would be in parallel. So for example two 8 ohm speakers the amp will see an 8 ohm load from 0 Hz up to 600 Hz then it will see a 4 ohm load from 600 Hz and up. The door speaker most just let "rool off" on the high side and they sound okay. Anyhow, just something to chew on.