New self tuner

I have sent the money to buy my tweecer R/T. I have been lurking around the tuning forums for awhile now but now it's time to get my hands dirty and learn first hand. I know I will have some questions but hopefully not to many. My car is still mostly stock right now so it should be pretty strait foward until my new shortblock goes in. My tweecing for now will be very limited mostly just turning off the EGR and smog and doing a few timing tweec's including getting rid of the throttle tip in retard. I have access to a dyno so I'll probably lean out the A/F a little if the actual A/F matches what is in the base fuel table for the J4J1bin. I have read the suggestions on changing the idle rpm and doing a datalog before getting started. Any other suggestions or anything else I need to do when I get this thing installed?

Thank you Wes. I have been reading Grady's site and any other resource I've found on getting started with the tweecer including the sticky in this tuning forum.

Thanks guys, There is deffinatly plenty of reading left to do.

I pulled the computer out of the car tonight to go ahead and and clean the j3 port and prepare for the tweecer install tommorow after it gets here when I noticed that the white strap that holds the computer was already loose. I pulled it out and it is a remanufactured computer. I was a little surprised by this but no difference. That stuff on the contacts of the j3 is very stubborn and very hard to tell when you get it all off.

Where is a good place to mount the switch? I was just curious where you guys mount these things.

Well guys I got everything installed checked everything loaded a tune with a 800 rpm idle cranked the car flipped the switch and it worked just like it's supposed to.

I disabled the egr, smog and tip in throttle retard fired the car started a datalog and drove the car and guess what no more check engine light! It was raining so I didn't get to see if I could feel any difference with the throttle tip in retard disabled. The datalogging is going to be intresting I can't wait to get further into it.

I've seen where some people said not to do much adjusting on the timing without a wideband however with the stock A/F comanded in the base fuel table of 11.89 at WOT do you guys think it would be safe to play with the timing for wide open throttle without changing anything in the fuel tables?

I will have access to a dyno before to long for free (one time only) and I'm gonna dial in the WOT A/F ratio while using their dyno wideband. Before I do any major engine mods I will have a wideband on my car but for now this will have to do.

Thanks to all that have helped me so far!

I bought mine used from a guy on corral. I got it for 425 shipped.

You guys are never going to believe this. As you know I installed my tweecer yesterday. I cut the switch to position 5 clicked read eec then loaded the stock tune to all 4 positions on the switch. I didn't get to drive the car much yesterday due to rain and it being late when I finished everything up.

So today I hook the laptop up to do a datalog to check my timing at WOT so I could tweec the timing tables some While driving down the road I noticed the K's were staying steady around .985. IIRC these should be staying close to 1.00. Then I noticed the check engine light came back on. Knowing that I have cutoff the egr and smog I rechecked my scalers to make sure everything was right and I noticed that the idle rpms was different than the j4j1 values.

Now for those of you that have seen my other thread about having hot start idle issues will remember that the last time I had the codes read I was getting codes for bank 1 rich and bank 2 rich not to mention the car was nearly flooding out in hot starting. I started looking at all the scalers when I noticed the injectors ofsets for 19lb injectors. Remember me saying my car has a remanufactured computer in it. The computer had no sticker telling the calibration on it. It just had a sticker with a bar code and remanufactured stamped on it. MY COBRA HAS A GT COMPUTER IN IT!!!!! Turns out that the gt computer has been causing my problems all along.

I loaded a j4j1 bin into my tweecer disabled the egr, thermactor, and the tip in throttle retard and OMG I can't believe how my smoother the car idles and runs. The idle is rock steady where it always fluctuated a little before the car evan sounds better. I done another datalog on my way home and the k's stayed rock steady at around 1.00.

The tweecer is the best money I have ever spent because without it I would never have figured out it had the wrong computer.