I know nothing abiut working on cars but I wanted to learn so I went out and bought a 79 mustang with a 88 5.0 motor in it. Motor has been rebuilt and runs but it looks like they just cut all kinds of wires. When I got the car drove it home 60 miles no problem then drove 20 miles to friends house and on the way home the problems start running ruff and died out waited 10 minutes started back up drove the rest of way home I have started the car since and just seems to be running really ruff while just sitting there so I went out got new wires cap rotor and plugs going to install tomorrow while looking at motor today I noticed that they cut all the wire coming out of tfi except yellow and red with green I believe they are running to coil my question is where do other wires go and do I need them? This motor has also converted using a carburetor instead of fuel injection please help pulling out my hair trying to figure this out
Electrical New To Forum And Mustangs Need A Little Help
- Thread starter mike beach
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I have a headache from trying to read that post. What is it that is wrong with the car? What wires are cut?
I feel sorry for you, but you are going to get an education.
Step 1.) Go back and edit your post to use proper punctuation . Capital letters to start a sentence and a period to end it. Electrical problems are difficult enough to fix without having to translate what you wrote. Mikestang63's comments are right on target, so I am not the only one having problems understanding what you wrote.
If you are willing to do that, then we can help you. If not, sorry, you are out of luck.
The distributor with a TFI is not made for use with a carb car. It has no spark advance mechanism, which means reduced power and economy.
While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Duraspark or similar ignition system. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Duraspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=127 for more information. Cost is about $400, which makes the 85 Mustang reman units look really appealing.
Duraspark II ignition diagram:
Diagram courtesy of /www.billwrigley.com
See http://webpages.charter.net/1bad6t/duraspark.html for more help.
Note the ballast resistor shown in the diagram: you’ll need that too
Copied from pikapp33
I recently changed my EFI mustang back to carb with MSD ignition, to save some money and go for a more simplistic approach. I researched, and found the best stock type distributor to use was from an 83 Bronco 5.0, which is a Duraspark (magnetic pickup, same as what MSD dists use), making it possible to use the 2 wire MSD trigger input, and also has a steel gear to work with the EFI hyd roller cam.
I chose to use a Richporter FD30 ($85). Then added a BWD C194A Cap Adapter ($12) to use the Fox style dist cap/wires (the Richporter comes with cap/rotor, which I didn't use; other brands come without and are cheaper, but have a core as well; no core on this one). And then a BWD D166 rotor ($6) to match the cap adapter. I also chose to buy the MSD 8869 adapter wire ($20ish) to connect the dist to the MSD harness for my 6AL. All together about $125, much cheaper than the MSD billet dists, and am very happy with the quality of the the dist and the way the setup worked out.
The Richporter FD30 distributor is available at Advance Auto Parts ($90) & O’Riley’s ($81)
Step 1.) Go back and edit your post to use proper punctuation . Capital letters to start a sentence and a period to end it. Electrical problems are difficult enough to fix without having to translate what you wrote. Mikestang63's comments are right on target, so I am not the only one having problems understanding what you wrote.
If you are willing to do that, then we can help you. If not, sorry, you are out of luck.
The distributor with a TFI is not made for use with a carb car. It has no spark advance mechanism, which means reduced power and economy.
While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Duraspark or similar ignition system. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Duraspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=127 for more information. Cost is about $400, which makes the 85 Mustang reman units look really appealing.
Duraspark II ignition diagram:
Diagram courtesy of /www.billwrigley.com
See http://webpages.charter.net/1bad6t/duraspark.html for more help.
Note the ballast resistor shown in the diagram: you’ll need that too
Copied from pikapp33
I recently changed my EFI mustang back to carb with MSD ignition, to save some money and go for a more simplistic approach. I researched, and found the best stock type distributor to use was from an 83 Bronco 5.0, which is a Duraspark (magnetic pickup, same as what MSD dists use), making it possible to use the 2 wire MSD trigger input, and also has a steel gear to work with the EFI hyd roller cam.
I chose to use a Richporter FD30 ($85). Then added a BWD C194A Cap Adapter ($12) to use the Fox style dist cap/wires (the Richporter comes with cap/rotor, which I didn't use; other brands come without and are cheaper, but have a core as well; no core on this one). And then a BWD D166 rotor ($6) to match the cap adapter. I also chose to buy the MSD 8869 adapter wire ($20ish) to connect the dist to the MSD harness for my 6AL. All together about $125, much cheaper than the MSD billet dists, and am very happy with the quality of the the dist and the way the setup worked out.
The Richporter FD30 distributor is available at Advance Auto Parts ($90) & O’Riley’s ($81)
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previous owner sure did a hack job with that one! Follow joes advice and replace dist w ccorrect one fo your application
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