Fox New To Mustangs And Have A Few Questions

Czar_Tyler

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Nov 20, 2013
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So, I'm brand new here and pretty new to mustangs in general. Pretty much I build ricers and old IDI diesels for fun. Thought mustangs would be a nice new hobby. Just posted in you welcome wagon with pics of my car, hope you like them. So far, I've removed the horrible purple tint and all the damn stickers, cleaned up the damage to the passenger rear as best I could and primed that section for paint. The car will get completely stripped in the next year or so and totally change colors so I'm not to worried about it.
I bought my 86 GT with plans of installing a 4.6 DOHC. Not going to happen. Had a motor from a Lincoln that would have worked out well but it just looks like to much of a project. I'm sure others will disagree and say "Oh its just a weekend project, my brothers cousins uncles best friend did it with a crescent wrench and chewing gum" Either way I am trying do go another route.
I bought a 2000 Explorer motor and am in the process of pulling it apart to send it to the machine shop. Right now the motor in the mustand is an original 86 mustang with a little bit of work done to it.
Currently: MSD Distributor and all that
Short tube headers (That leak like crazy)
Chinese crap HPipe with out the Emission equipment installed
Flowmaster exhaust
some off brand intake tube
Shiny new radiator and hoses
Think that is it. It does drive nice though
Goal: Machine Explorer Block .30 Over and install all new oil galleys, freeze plugs, hot tank, etc
Port and Polish GT40p Heads, ReDeck the gasket surface, Bronze Valve Guides
3 angle intake
5 angle exhaust (not sure why but that seems to be what is recommended)

Using the MSD Ignition off the old block
BBK Ceramic Long tube Headers
Matching HPipe
Keeping the Flowmaster off the old setup
Pulling the Waterpump Housing off the old motor
Pulling the oil pan and pickup line off the old motor

For Engine internals I am going cheap but hey it looks like it will work and while I'm trying to do this correctly I'm not a millionaire.
347 Stroker Kit from RPMmachine.
Scat 9000 Crank (3.400")
I Beam Connecting Rods (5.400")
Flat Top 11.0:1 Pistons (Hypereutectic)
With Rings, bearings and external balancing its 1188$
http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2806
Cam Edelbrock 350-221 Rollin' Thunder
289/302 Duration .520/.520 Lift Hydraulic Roller
244$
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2221/10002/-1
I am having a hard time finding and picking the correct valves and springs to install. Any help with that would be awesome
For the Intake I will use the GT40p upper and lowers from the explorer but they are going to the machine shop to get cleaned up with the block and heads.
I am also wanting to use the throttle body from the explorer. I found how to convert the linkage from the push to the pull type so it will fit with the mustang throttle cable.
Another question is will this setup work with Speed Density or do I have to convert to MAF. If I have to convert to MAF (which I hope to do one day anyways) what do I need to do? I've seen lots of posts in many forums that say to convert to MAF but not many that say how.
On day it would be nice to switch from the t5 to the T56 but that is a long way down the road.
Pretty much I am looking for advice on the SD or MAF, the right Valves and Springs, whether this setup will work or if when I go to fire it up it will explode in my face, and what am I forgetting or missing.
Caveates: I'm not interested in any type of Forced Induction
I already have the motor and the heads, so recommending trickflow or AFR heads is not productive
I work in oil and gas and spend almost all my time in states other than my own so I have very little time to work on the car. I am not going to make overnight progress on this. It will be a slow but steady process. I am building the engine on a stand right now (actually I'm taking it apart right now) and once it is complete I will pull the old motor and install the new one. Hopefully that portion will be a quick process.
Thanks in advance everybody. Looks like this is going to be fun.
 
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Welcome,

glanced through the post and a couple of quick observations.

Don't reuse a water pump. They are cheap and why take a chance with a fresh motor
Ditch the MSD crap ignition and run the stock ignition and distributor. It is more than enough for your needs.
Use a new oil pump and hardened shaft, and pick up screen
I don't like that cam. Here is the cam card


CAMSHAFT:
Performer RPM Roller Hydraulic
• PART #2221
• ENGINE: Ford 289-302 V8
• RPM RANGE: 1500-6500

CAUTION:
Do not use dual valve springs. Use recommendedvalve springs with closed pressure of 110 lbs., open pressure of
320 lbs, and lift of .575”. Use stock ratio rocker arms only.
Duration at .004" Lift: Intake 298° Exhaust 302°
Duration at .050" Lift: Intake 227° Exhaust 234°
Lift at cam: Intake .325" Exhaust .325"
Lift at valve: Intake .520" Exhaust .520"
Timing at .050 Lift: Open Close
Intake 6° BTDC 41° ABDC
Exhaust 54° BBDC 0° ATDC
Centerlines:
Lobe Separation: 112° Lobe Centerline: Int: 107° ATDC
Exh: 117° BTDC
• CAUTION:
Use Edelbrock Performer-Link Timing Chain and Gear
Set #7811 or Accu-Drive gear drive #7892. Do not use late
model timing chain and gear sets that are designed for emission-controlled engines.
These timing sets are machined in a retarded
position and are not recommended for this camshaft installation.
Edelbrock Timing Sets feature three keyways for specified timing
selection. Use "0" position for most applications.
©2010 Edelbrock Corporation
Rev. 4/10 - AJ/mc

I'd call Ed curtis at TFI and for a little more money have him grind you a custom cam that will work better with the GT40 heads. For springs, you can get either Alex;'s springs or TFS sells an set of upgraded springs. Not a big fan of the Chinese cast cranks but the 9000 is one of the "better" ones- you should have them checked for taper, chatter, and balance.

You can keep the SD and get a tune, unless you get a super radical cam. You didnt mention injector size, but I'd say 36lb would be sufficient .

have you plugged all of these parts into any simulator to see what kind of numbers it will make?
 
I found a couple simulators but none seem to be able to handle all the different parameters and make alot of assumptions. The one I was able to use somewhat estimated about 400 HP. Good info on the valves and springs. You say 36lb injectors, will the stock computer (SD) know how to run 36lb injectors. They are 19# stock right? What about the explorer injectors? Also on the MSD, I dont have a stock ignition setup. I can buy one sure but will it actually make any difference. I would never buy the MSD system but it came with the car. Thanks
 
You'll need to grind some spots inside the block to get clearance for the connecting rod bolts with a 347 stroker. Plan on buying a kit that comes pre-balanced with all the parts. It will save you a lot of time.

MASS air conversion instructions from http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html FREE

A9L (5 Speed) computer from junkyard $100-$150
A9P (Auto or in a pinch, it will work in a 5 Speed car) computer from junkyard $100-$150
70MM MAF from 94-95 Mustang GT - $40-$70
MASS Air wiring harness kit $30-$85

The whole thing is probably less than $300 using junkyard parts.

A9L computers are 5 speed only
A9P computers are automatic, but will work with a 5 speed.

The conversion harness seems to work well for most folks. It avoids the compatibility problems in using a harness from the junkyard. Simple and cheap, actually less work that swapping the wiring harness.
Conversion Harness kits & parts
http://www.mass-air.com/
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=54
Also see www.forfuelinjection.com for help with the harness parts http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=10, and connector pins, http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=11


If the idea of moving & soldering wires scares you, here's a list of compatible Mass Air wiring harnesses.

Copied from bbunt302
Just for reference, here's a list of all the compatible years:

89 harness should work for 86-89 as long as you're using mass air.
90 harness will only work in a 90. (B/c of air bags and dual dash connectors)
91 through early 92 harnesses should be compatible (single dash connector, fuel pump relay under driver's seat)

Late 92 through 93 harnesses may be compatible (single dash connector, fuel pump relay under the hood). You may end up running some extra wire for the fuel pump relay. Comments and input from someone who has actually used the 92-93 EFI harness would be nice.

Larger MAF to go with Mass Air conversion:
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html Buy the TR70 for $40-$45 depending on if it’s on sale or not. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
Try AutoZone and ask for 81413 - Spectre / 3 in. Aluminum Intake Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter at $12.00. You may have to order it online.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
 
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jrichker, That is awesome. Thank you. Doesnt seem bad at all. Doesnt look like the MAF sensor from the Explorer will work? I already have that sensor and all the wiring.(Just not the computer)
 
I've got a spare here: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/a9l-tested-never-used.873097/

Impossible to find A9L in junkyard, I tried.

Got a couple of MAF's too. 55mm Ford with sensor. It was from an Explorer but we machined off the flange on the CNC.

My next door neighbor from many years ago had the same year & same color. Cabernet Red, same as my '88.

I might have missed it, is your '86 5-spd or auto? (I see it now, T5) . I think your wheels are original OEM 10-holes. You do know that '86's had the "good engine & 8.8 rear"? 1st year for the 5.0L HO-SEFI. Not much difference between SD & MAF. SD was '86-'88 (49-states). Cali got the MAF in '88. All 50 states got it in '89. GT body changed in '87.

The strong points of these cars are the engine, transmission & rear end. The weak points are the suspension. You might want to reconsider your emphasis. Besides, all the suspension components are 28 years old & the rubber bushings are probably shot. New power will just make it more noticeable.
 
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I found a couple simulators but none seem to be able to handle all the different parameters and make alot of assumptions. The one I was able to use somewhat estimated about 400 HP. Good info on the valves and springs. You say 36lb injectors, will the stock computer (SD) know how to run 36lb injectors. They are 19# stock right? What about the explorer injectors? Also on the MSD, I dont have a stock ignition setup. I can buy one sure but will it actually make any difference. I would never buy the MSD system but it came with the car. Thanks

You can run the SD all day long with the larger injectors- just get a tune- even if you go to mass air you'll still want a tune so you're back to square one. The explorer injectors are 19lbers but have a better flow patern than the mustang. If you have the MSD already, then run it but know they are crap and plan on replacing it- if not when.

I saw Jrichkers comment about clearancing the block for the larger stroke. I assumed you knew that but nevertheless good advice. I'm not familiar with RPM but you need to be careful buying these kits. Some places just throw parts in a box and you get what you get. That's why I said check out CHP or fordstrokers. It may be a little more but you'll get piece of mind knowing the parts and machining are from a reputable company.

My best advice is spend as much as you can afford on the best heads you can buy. That is the most important piece of the puzzle. Then look for a cam to match up to the heads. Before you start ordering any parts, give someone like Ed Curtis or Mark Oneal a call and talk to them about your goals and parts list you've put together.
 
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Mike, on clearencing the block, once I get all the bottom end parts delivered all of it is going to the machine shop to get matched, mated and balanced. At that point the shop will clearence the block. That is sure not a job im willing to take on in my garage. Also, TF had some really good stuff on valves and springs. Thank you. Other than the specific cam shaft, and ive made some progress there, i think I have most of that figured out. Hopefully your firneds at TF will be helpful. Not sure how to size the push rods but im betting the machine shop will help me out there, unless someone here has a method other than trial and error.

Blown88gt, it is a 5 speed. In the list is the T56, so it will be a 6 speed but that is about 2 years out right now. So 86 is the good year? Well awesome, I'm happy to have the good year. 4 eyes makes me happy. I like the color now and im sticking with the canyon red interior for the most part but Im planning on a white exterior (blue pearl) with all the stock body parts (no body kits or any of that fun stuff) and hopefully the original retro wheels.
 
I was trying to understand why you were all charged up on a new engine & then a rebuilt engine. Is it going to be race or street? How does it run now?

If it has the original engine mounts, you will need those, too. Mine hadn't fully collapsed, but noticed things were changing. The engine moved a little, just from me pushing it up & down. When I pulled them out at 50K miles, they were half-way gone. Don't go solid, get the poly.
 
Blown88, not sure what you mean. The car runs well right now. I drive it on weekends. I am building a motor outside of the car. Why am I doing it? Because it is fun. I'm calling the explorer motor the new motor and the motor in the car already the old motor. It will be a street drive able car that I can take to the strip on weekends. Yeah figured on the engine mounts. Totalling up the prices it looks like it will be about 6K in motor work and about 12K to be done. Any recommendations on the vendor for polys? seems like there are many companies that make them and nobody can say what is truly different.