New to Pac NW

L

LXracerGuy

New Member
Nov 3, 2005
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#1
Hello, I recently moved to the Pac NW, actually living in Portland now until our new house in Newberg is completed.

I recently bought a 1992 Mustang LX from my brother and have been driving it since about February of this year and loving it as it's a lot of fun to get on the track or dragstrip.

So far the car has not had a lot of work done to it, other then your typical sub frame connectors, better axles, exhaust with headers but still using cats, and a tremec 5 speed.

The motor is basically stock with the a/c being deleted, and me being an x-chevy guy I am a bit clueless on where to go from here as I just raced the car this last summer and want to build it up a bit over the winter. I have seen quite a few awesome cars here as I surfed the site a bit before I actually signed up and curious who you guys recommend to do work on the car?

I have no clue on what to do next to the motor as all I have heard is that the blocks are not the strongest so I don't want to blow it up, and open to any suggestions as I thought about a small shot of nitrous and maybe some bolt on's....anyone with any experience care to help a guy out? :)

autocross_martin.jpg
 
#2
well there are poeple out here that have foxes with just some bolt on and putting down some nice numbers and there are others that do a h/c/i set up and put down more then 300 to the ground it all depends on how fast you want to go and stop and trun and the most important how deep are you pockets
 
#3
Like scoob' said h/c/i is good for 300 to the ground (mid 13s to high 12s depending on suspention)

Cory just got done feeding 10lbs to his to the tune of 420 to the wheels with iron heads, and a good safe tune.

Then there are guys like Big E and Will they run turbos to the tune of about 500 (or more). Erics is good for mid-high 9s :hail2:

Then there are the cog driven F2 blown, 20+lbs of boost etc... cars who will probably run 7s or 8s if they can hook em up and have balls enough to hold their foot in it.

The stock block is pretty good (imho) to about 350-400, but if you have good internals and a girdle you could probably go 5-600.

The only guys I trust to work on my ride are in my sig.

Ask for Jeff (or jeff) or Chung.

Welcome to the rain,
Dave- (double D)
:nice: :flag:
 
#4
O.k so by h/c/i I take it your meaning heads, cam and intake manifold?

Any certain brand I should go with that won't hinder my cars ability to make it through DEQ? I went in today to change my license to Oregon and found out that I have to take it there as where I lived out in Nor Cal before I did not have to.

So could a motor with 125k on it handle these mods with like a 50 shot of nitrous?
 
#6
Welcome to the wet NW. You shouldn't have a problem finding anybody to work on your car, as you'll soon find out.
Another transplant from Cali, a lot of us on here are. Where exactly are you coming from?
Once again, welcome and get an umbrella.
 
#7
I was living just outside Lake Shasta out in the middle of nowhere, so we got our fair share of rain and snow in the winter so it's not completley foreign. ;)

I finished school and got all my student loans paid off living in Nor Cal as it was very cheap to live, and then got a job at the new hosptial there in Newberg being finished.
 
#8
It has been a while since I last viewed the DEQ map... I was thinking newburg was out of the emissions zone. Anyway, your shortblock should be fine to handle the power increases discussed here, even with those miles. If you want some bitchin aluminum heads, you can go with some AFR's (being a chevy guy, you should be well acquainted with them). A few years ago, they intruduced model numbers, for both their 165cc and 185cc heads to be emissions legal. That being said, you would also be fine with any of the other popular brands, such as Holley, TFS, Edelbrock, etc.
 
#9
Lake Shasta. Very cool. I used to live in Yreka. I know the snow, rain, and hot summers very well. It's funny how when people talk about living in Nor Cal, they usually mean Sacramento is the border. It's a whole different world past that.
 
#11
Welcome i would say like the rest have H/C/I and maybe a set of 4.10's or 3.73's. I would check into the thumper heads they are fully worked over and run about $600 or so plus you need rockers (like alum. heads), these are E7's cast heads and arent alum. but they flow preaty damn close if not better then some aftermarket alum and steel heads and for 1/2 the cost? I will find the site and post the link here for ya. They are able to run in the mid 12's with these heads, and a buddy of mine has GT40P's i beleive and he runs low 12's! But it's up to you and your pockets. If i remember right you should have forged internals or atleast the pistons are??? Right guy's??? So as far as a shot of juice i would say you could get away with a 150 shot with a bigger fuel pump, i'm running a 125 shot in my 95 (but havent hit it yet) do to the tune and now the weather. Another thing you might want to check into is a chip :shrug: But yes your bolt ons will help alot! Cory (SALEENSTER) has a set of under drives for sale or atleast he did? He is very trusting and an honest guy on here unlike some others but you'll get to know who they are. If ya need any welding done and the shops are to full let me know. peace



john:p
 
#13
Careful about wasting money on E7's. Porting them yourself is one thing, but blowing $600 on someone else's port job, no matter how good it is, is folly. Even a mediocre aluminum head will outperform a ported E7, and the price difference between them isn't all that large.

Now, the GT40P's are a different beast. They do make very good power, and for a budget setup that is exactly what I would choose. You sacrifice some grunt, but that's okay for the track.

Dave
 
#14
just a sugestion but there is a few in 5.0 fourms here that have them with no complaints. BTW dave do you still have anything for sale? or did you off all of it already? peace





john:p
 
#16
imho... the Trick Flow package is a nice set-up, its heads, cam and manifold all designed to work together. Several people here locally have it and make good #s while still passing emissions no problem...
One thing though is youll probably want to have a good exhaust before the h/c/i, otherwise the new found flow has no place to go....
You'll also probably want a bigger MAF and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (fpr) to go with the h/c/i. (or 24# injectors)
You can put the hci on a tired motor and it will work fine for now... (although I wouldnt use no2) and then in a year or two when ya want get a good shortblock to slide under the heads.
Good luck,
Dave-
 
#18
Rootus said:
Careful about wasting money on E7's. Porting them yourself is one thing, but blowing $600 on someone else's port job, no matter how good it is, is folly. Even a mediocre aluminum head will outperform a ported E7, and the price difference between them isn't all that large.

Now, the GT40P's are a different beast. They do make very good power, and for a budget setup that is exactly what I would choose. You sacrifice some grunt, but that's okay for the track.

Dave
Click to expand...

John did make a good suggestion, by bringing up the Thumper heads. Another reputable set of E7TE based CNC heads are the "CNC Power Heads." Both these and the thumpers are a viable option for those looking to stay under $800 for a set of fully assembled heads. The Power Heads out flow stock GT-40P's. As such, they are a viable option. The only reason I went with the GT-40P's, is that I acquired the pair(newly rebuilt) for $320. Had that deal not come along, I would have gotten the CNC power heads. To get a set of GT-40P's to flow that well, you would be up to the expense of a set of reputable aluminum castings. You are right, that most mediocre sets of aluminum heads will out perform cast iron ported E7's- though the E7's certainly have a place in the market when you address the bang-for-the-buck factor. Though, I guess, when I built my combo, I was a poor college student. At that time, a couple hundred dollars in price difference was a great deal.:nice:
 
#19
fastang2k1 said:
Lake Shasta. Very cool. I used to live in Yreka. I know the snow, rain, and hot summers very well. It's funny how when people talk about living in Nor Cal, they usually mean Sacramento is the border. It's a whole different world past that.
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing when people were talking about Nor Cal as to me I thought Sac was more southern then northern. Man I thought Lake Shasta was a small town, I could not imagine living in Yreka, although it is beautiful country.

SMOKEDYA said:
Here's the link for the thumper heads:http://classifieds.stangnet.com/showproduct.php?product=23172&sort=1&cat=3&page=6 I will prob order a set of them they sound preaty good even tho they might weight a bit more then alum. ones i dont see a prob. unless your building an all out drag car? Thats just me tho. peace

john:p
Click to expand...

You know I saw these in the classifieds and was thinking about purchasing them as I checked their website and they had the heads with a cam and chains for like $1k, but did not know anyone who has had them before. I am not on a huge budget but don't want to spend a fortune either.


AllFordPerf said:
LXRACERGUY, Did you call us this week? If you did the number we got was not correct. Give us a call, 360-993-1740 Thanks, All Ford Performance.
Click to expand...

Nope not I, although I would need a local shop to do the installation as all my tools are still boxed and in a storage unit. :Damnit:

ddonaca351 said:
imho... the Trick Flow package is a nice set-up, its heads, cam and manifold all designed to work together. Several people here locally have it and make good #s while still passing emissions no problem...
One thing though is youll probably want to have a good exhaust before the h/c/i, otherwise the new found flow has no place to go....
You'll also probably want a bigger MAF and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (fpr) to go with the h/c/i. (or 24# injectors)
You can put the hci on a tired motor and it will work fine for now... (although I wouldnt use no2) and then in a year or two when ya want get a good shortblock to slide under the heads.
Good luck,
Dave-
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information, do you have a link as to where I could find these? So your saying that the heads/cams/intake and a 50 shot of nitrous might be a bit large for the motor?

loud 95 said:
John did make a good suggestion, by bringing up the Thumper heads. Another reputable set of E7TE based CNC heads are the "CNC Power Heads." Both these and the thumpers are a viable option for those looking to stay under $800 for a set of fully assembled heads. The Power Heads out flow stock GT-40P's. As such, they are a viable option. The only reason I went with the GT-40P's, is that I acquired the pair(newly rebuilt) for $320. Had that deal not come along, I would have gotten the CNC power heads. To get a set of GT-40P's to flow that well, you would be up to the expense of a set of reputable aluminum castings. You are right, that most mediocre sets of aluminum heads will out perform cast iron ported E7's- though the E7's certainly have a place in the market when you address the bang-for-the-buck factor. Though, I guess, when I built my combo, I was a poor college student. At that time, a couple hundred dollars in price difference was a great deal.:nice:
Click to expand...

Again thanks for the good information as it sounds like this might be something for me to research a bit more and find people with actual experience and numbers. I am looking for bang for the buck as the car is a daily driver/racer and a car making 300+whp would be exactly what I am looking for without having to spend a fortune.
 
#20
I put down 245/293 with worked over E7's and a trick flo street heat intake and all the bolt on's. With 10* timming and no tune. Thereason for the timming at this is i was gonna hit the bottle but i didnt have the heater done yet. So now i will be going in for a chip and tune. My goal is as close to 400 HP/TQ with the bottle :shrug: we'll see. peace





john:p
 
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