SN95 Newbie And New To Me 95 Gt 347 Car Need Advise To Fix Previous Made Mistakes

N

NSS221b

Active User
Nov 2, 2016
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Hustisford, WI
#1
Just picked up a toy for me. it is a 1995 Mustang GT Convertible been upgraded but not completed. I got a great price on it knowing what needed to be done to it.

347 Stroker kit (eagle kit I believe 10:1)
Edelbrock performer heads (2.02 Intake) 1.70 Rockers
Edelbrock RPM performer II
E303 cam (added to avoid changing computer)
5-speed (added for fun and idle issues)
3:73 ??? Not sure on this ... I know they were changed... but I have not check them yet
most of the rest is stock.

A lot of the choices were left to avoid buying a computer. I will be upgrading to a new computer, Injectors, mass air, exhaust, cam..

My question is more....where do I start? I will be putting money into it I know... but I will not be dropping all the cash at once. I can gather parts and add later. Just trying to pick the brains of all of you who have been through this already.

I am use to carbureted cars... not all this fancy stuff (lol)

Thank you in advance (and yes I have been reading and I am more confused)
 
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#3
Do more reading, keep notes and get a good repair manuel for it. Sounds like a good start but I am far from an expert, I promise to encourage you to do the things I can't afford to do.
Turbo and drag radials here we come!
 
#4
Those parts are pretty mismatched. I don't know where you got the idea you will need a new computer. You will just need to get yours tuned. If the engine isn't together yet I would absolutely avoid that Cam. I would also sell those heads and source a set of afr's.
Being a vert plan on installing subframe connectors. These are a must.
 
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#5
Is it running right now?

If so, go safety first. New brakes, ball joints, your wheels and axle bearings probably need to be looked at as well.

Then handling, control arms, bushings, subframe connectors (especially with a convertible), end links for your sway bars, shocks, maybe even springs (lowering your mustang will do wonders for handling).

Then if you can live with how ever your interior is, get a supercharger and scream like a little girl every time you step on the gas pedal.

Point is, make sure your car is safe and then that it can handle the horsepower it already has and will have when you finish the power train upgrades.

The T5 won't last real long with that engine, unless, of course, you can go without ramming through the gears. Good luck with not doing that.
 
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#6
From hang'n around here for the last few months I have discovered there are some significant issues that can cause problems when dealing with one of these efi/computer cars, the good news you have a v8 car, is the data sticker still in the door jam? If it is check if it came with a stick or auto. There are things that need to be addressed when changing transmissions, auto to stick or other way around.
My point is there is a learning curve, but in the end it can be a hell of a lot of fun and satisfying when you rumble down the street skare'n small children and dogs.
Man, some days I just have too much coffee!
 
#7
NSS221b said:
Just picked up a toy for me. it is a 1995 Mustang GT Convertible been upgraded but not completed. I got a great price on it knowing what needed to be done to it.

347 Stroker kit (eagle kit I believe 10:1)
Edelbrock performer heads (2.02 Intake) 1.70 Rockers
Edelbrock RPM performer II
E303 cam (added to avoid changing computer)
5-speed (added for fun and idle issues)
3:73 ??? Not sure on this ... I know they were changed... but I have not check them yet
most of the rest is stock.

A lot of the choices were left to avoid buying a computer. I will be upgrading to a new computer, Injectors, mass air, exhaust, cam..

My question is more....where do I start? I will be putting money into it I know... but I will not be dropping all the cash at once. I can gather parts and add later. Just trying to pick the brains of all of you who have been through this already.

I am use to carbureted cars... not all this fancy stuff (lol)

Thank you in advance (and yes I have been reading and I am more confused)
Click to expand...

Here is my 2 cents

  • what size injectors
  • what MAF
  • What rockers
  • forged or cast internals
  • you want at least a 205cc head.. edeelbrock not my first choice, TFS or AFR
  • Cam is not ideal. especially a letter cam.
I would highly recommend you contact Ed Curtis or Buddy Rawls and have a cam made for you
 
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#10
stykthyn said:
Those parts are pretty mismatched. I don't know where you got the idea you will need a new computer. You will just need to get yours tuned. If the engine isn't together yet I would absolutely avoid that Cam. I would also sell those heads and source a set of afr's.
Being a vert plan on installing subframe connectors. These are a must.
Click to expand...
You are correct. I do not need a CPU (but I would like one) For what I would pay for a tune (and anytime I upgrade) I can buy a computer and tune myself (with help). The engine is together and I know there parts are not ideal ( not my build) and the engine will come apart to replace the cam. And I am with you on the subframe connectors.
 
#11
Davedacarpainter said:
Is it running right now?

If so, go safety first. New brakes, ball joints, your wheels and axle bearings probably need to be looked at as well.

Then handling, control arms, bushings, subframe connectors (especially with a convertible), end links for your sway bars, shocks, maybe even springs (lowering your mustang will do wonders for handling).

Then if you can live with how ever your interior is, get a supercharger and scream like a little girl every time you step on the gas pedal.

Point is, make sure your car is safe and then that it can handle the horsepower it already has and will have when you finish the power train upgrades.

The T5 won't last real long with that engine, unless, of course, you can go without ramming through the gears. Good luck with not doing that.
Click to expand...

It is running, and lowered. I have to check on what was all done on the suspension, brakes and such. would love a supercharger....but have to get the correct parts on the motor and computer before I go that radical. Subframe connectors are a must. I have to check out if they have been installed. I know it has a strut tower brace but not sure on the underneath yet... was dark when I was getting it off the trailer.
 
#12
mikestang63 said:
Here is my 2 cents

  • what size injectors
  • what MAF
  • What rockers
  • forged or cast internals
  • you want at least a 205cc head.. edeelbrock not my first choice, TFS or AFR
  • Cam is not ideal. especially a letter cam.
I would highly recommend you contact Ed Curtis or Buddy Rawls and have a cam made for you
Click to expand...
I think the injectors are 24lb (not sure yet... have not been in the motor much yet) Stock MAF. 1.7 rockers (roller) not sure on the internals my buddy is looking for the paperwork (not hopeful there) but I am thinking cast. The cam will be getting replaced... but have to have all the other parts worked out before the cam gets installed. I am thinking cpu, injectors, MAF, cam, fuel pump (I am missing a ton I am sure). This will not be a DD it is a toy and not much more. Thanks for the info
 
#13
karthief said:
From hang'n around here for the last few months I have discovered there are some significant issues that can cause problems when dealing with one of these efi/computer cars, the good news you have a v8 car, is the data sticker still in the door jam? If it is check if it came with a stick or auto. There are things that need to be addressed when changing transmissions, auto to stick or other way around.
My point is there is a learning curve, but in the end it can be a hell of a lot of fun and satisfying when you rumble down the street skare'n small children and dogs.
Man, some days I just have too much coffee!
Click to expand...
The car was an auto car and changed to manual (with manual computer).. This needs parts in needs more fuel and exhaust (stock headers still installed) . I don't want to talk about all the mismatch parts and such....this was not my build (lol) I just took it over and now I have to correct it. Might have to hit a few swap meets this year.
 
#14
NSS221b said:
You are correct. I do not need a CPU (but I would like one) For what I would pay for a tune (and anytime I upgrade) I can buy a computer and tune myself (with help). The engine is together and I know there parts are not ideal ( not my build) and the engine will come apart to replace the cam. And I am with you on the subframe connectors.
Click to expand...


What sort of computer are you referring to? An aftermarket type like a megasquirt?

Plenty of people run solid combos like yours on the stock computer. You can even run a different camshaft if you wanted.

Unless you actually know how to do the tuning, I would advocate a custom dyno tune over trying it yourself if you want to get up and running asap. There's a steep learning curve with custom ECU setups.
 
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#15
NSS221b said:
The car was an auto car and changed to manual (with manual computer)..
Click to expand...

I don't know enough about how the 94-95 Mustangs are wired, but on a Fox car, there are a few harnesses and jumpers you need to swap out to do this correctly to retain idle quality and power. Failure to do so results in poor running.

You'll need to find some guys who are knowledgable with the 94-95 wiring to comment. With an 87-93 you'd def have problems without changing out the trans harness (to add NGS circuit), and repining the o2 sensor harness. None of this may apply to an SN95 though.
 
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#16
#18
It's possible that your injectors and MAF are mismatched. If you have 24# injectors (blue tops) then you must have a MAF that's tuned to run with 24# injectors. Same thing for 19 # (orange top).

Have you tried to run codes?

Do you want us to help you get your car running correctly or help you get your combo matched better?
 
#19
NSS221b said:
Thank you for the info... I am sure I will do things I should not. :D
Click to expand...
So the car is run'n and drive'n now, address the problems you have with it now, rather than bolting a bunch of stuff on it thinking your gonna make it better, you won't. It likely will continue to run like crap.
RUN THE CODES. Thats the first thing, that may give you an idea of whats happening now. I can tell you to first put some 19 pound injectors in it. That will jive with the mass air meter. Don't put a bigger mass air meter in it yet, if you hang around here and take the time to fix the problems you have the better suited you will be when you hang a blower on it, I know you want one:banana:
Make sure your brakes are in good working order. Gotta stop it during those test drives, thats the first thing before that other first thing.:doh:
 
#20
I would not put 19# injectors on that motor, it'd be a waste. Here is a chart to base your injector size on. I'd say 36# would be safe
jrichker said:
Fuel injector sizing & injector photos

Revised 26-Dec-2014 to add statement about figures are for flywheel HP and not rear wheel HP

Injector HP ratings: this flywheel HP, not rear wheel HP.
Divide flow rating by.5 and multiply the result by the number of injectors. This uses a 100% duty cycle. These ratings are for naturally aspirated engines at the flywheel.

Example:
19/.5 = 38, 38 x 8 = 304 HP
24/.5 = 48, 48 x 8 = 384 HP
30/.5 = 60, 60 x 8 = 480 HP
36/.5 = 72, 72 x 8 = 576 HP
42/.5 = 84, 84 x 8 = 672 HP

The preferred duty cycle is about 85% maximum, so for a safety factor multiply the final figure times .85.

19/.5 = 38, 38 x 8 = 304 HP x .85 = 258 HP
24/.5 = 48, 48 x 8 = 384 HP x .85 = 326 HP
30/.5 = 60, 60 x 8 = 480 HP x .85 = 408 HP
36/.5 = 72, 72 x 8 = 576 HP x .85 = 490 HP
42/.5 = 84, 84 x 8 = 672 HP x .85 = 571 HP

Remember that the above ratings are at 39 PSI. Increasing the pressure will effectively increase the flow rating. Example: a 19 lb injector will flow 24 lbs at 63 PSI, and a 24 lb injector will flow 30 lbs at 63 PSI.

See http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcpchg.htm to get the calculators used in these examples.

Here's the duty cycle explanation. Duty cycle is how much of the time the intake is open the injectors are turned on. The 85% figure means that for 85% of the time the intake valve is open, the injectors are spraying. The idea is that you want some percentage of the duty cycle left over so that you have some room to grow the process.

If you are at 100% and you need more fuel, all you can do is turn up the fuel pressure. That means the whole fuel curve from idle to WOT is affected. Maybe you are already too rich at idle, and turning up the fuel pressure makes it worse. If you had some injector duty cycle left to play with, a custom tune could use that where it is needed. That would not over richen the whole range from idle to WOT.

If you did turn up the fuel pressure, you might be able to change the injector duty cycle to get the air/fuel mixture ratio you want since the injectors will have extra fuel delivery capability.

With larger than stock injectors or higher that stock fuel pressure, you will need an aftermarket MAF that matches the injector size. The MAF “lies” to the computer to get a fuel delivery schedule that meets the engine’s needs and isn’t too rich or too lean. The best strategy is an aftermarket MAF and a custom tune to insure the best air/fuel ratio over all the RPM range.

Don't forget to increase the fuel pump size when you increase injector size or significantly increase the fuel pressure



Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg





Copied from the FORD RACING PERFORMANCE PARTS catalog:

PROPERLY SIZING FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS

Fuel Pumps
The following information is presented assuming the above information has been taken into consideration regarding BSFC, fuel pressure and specific gravity of the fuel being used. Most fuel pumps for electronic fuel injection are rated for flow at 12 volts @ 40 PSI. Most vehicle charging systems operate anywhere from 13.2v to 14.4v. The more voltage you feed a pump, the faster it spins which, obviously, will put out more fuel. Rating a fuel pump at 12 volts then, should offer a fairly conservative fuel flow rating allowing you to safely determine the pump’s ability to supply an adequate amount of fuel for a particular application.

As previously mentioned, engines actually require a certain WEIGHT of fuel, NOT a certain VOLUME of fuel per horsepower. This can offer a bit of confusion since most fuel pumps are rated by volume, and not by weight. To determine the proper fuel pump required, a few mathematical conversions will need to be performed using the following information. There are 3.785 liters in 1 US Gallon. 1 gallon of gasoline (.72 specific gravity @ 65° F) weighs 6.009 LBS.

To be certain that the fuel pump is not run to its very limit, which could potentially be dangerous to the engine, multiply the final output of the fuel pump by 0.9 to determine the capacity of the fuel pump at 90% output. This should offer plenty of ‘cushion’ as to the overall “horsepower capacity” of the fuel pump.

To determine the overall capacity of a fuel pump rated in liters, use the additional following conversions:
(Liters per Hour) / 3.785 = Gallons
Multiply by 6.009 = LBS/HR
Multiply by 0.9 = Capacity at 90%
Divide by BSFC = Horsepower Capacity
So for a 110 LPH fuel pump:
110 / 3.785 = 29.06 Gallons
29.06 x 6.009 = 174.62 LBS/HR
174.62 x 0.9 = 157 LBS/HR @ 90% Capacity
157 / 0.5 = 314 HP safe naturally aspirated “Horsepower Capacity”

Safe “Horsepower Capacity” @ 40 PSI with 12 Volts
60 Liter Pump = 95 LB/HR X .9 = 86 LB/HR, Safe for 170 naturally aspirated Horsepower
88 Liter Pump = 140 LB/HR X .9 = 126 LB/HR, Safe for 250 naturally aspirated Horsepower
110 Liter Pump = 175 LB/HR X .9 = 157 LB/HR, Safe for 315 naturally aspirated Horsepower
155 Liter Pump = 246 LB/HR X .9 = 221 LB/HR, Safe for 440 naturally aspirated Horsepower
190 Liter Pump = 302 LB/HR X .9 = 271 LB/HR, Safe for 540 naturally aspirated Horsepower
255 Liter Pump = 405 LB/HR X .9 = 364 LB/HR, Safe for 700 naturally aspirated Horsepower

Note: For forced induction engines, the above power levels will be reduced because as the pressure required by the pump increases, the flow decreases. In order to do proper fuel pump sizing, a fuel pump map is required, which shows flow rate versus delivery pressure.

That is, a 255 liter per hour pump at 40 PSI may only supply 200 liters per hour at 58 PSI (40 PSI plus 18 lbs of boost). Additionally, if you use a fuel line that is not large enough, this can result in decreased fuel volume due to the pressure drop across the fuel feed line: 255 LPH at the pump may only result in 225 LPH at the fuel rail.


My Comments:

A lot of people oversize the fuel pump by buying a 255LPH pump thinking that the fuel pump regulator will just pass the excess gas back to the tank. It does, but… Did you ever consider that circulating the fuel around as a 255 LPH pump does will cause the gas to pickup engine heat? What happens to hot gasoline? It boils off or pressurizes the fuel tank! With most of the 5.0 Mustangs having the carbon canister removed or disabled, the car stinks like gas, and the gas mileage drops since the hot fuel evaporates away into the air.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
Click to expand...
 
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