Newer fuse block- wiring for success

[68converted]

I am on the final stage of the project. I am very close to completion, but I am worried about the old fuse block, so I I pulled a fuse block out of an 90's Thunderbird. I want to rewire the old fuse block. The old system has a ton of series and parallel circuits routed through five fuses.

The question is... which circuits are the best to separate out? I am setting up the following on relays: fan, fuel pump, driving lights, headlights, and the stereo system. The circuits I want to pull/separate out are the Heater, Gauges/gauge lights, dash lights, external/hazard lights, stereo...

Suggestions for what else? Fuse links that would be good to cut out now that they are not needed?

 

[gunmetal5.0]

Scary. I would just wire in a new universal wiring harness.

 

[68converted]

Cool Dog. Is that an American Bulldog? Anyway... why scarry? And the new harness is out of price range for me. My resources are drained from my mothers cancer treatments and my fathers deadly cancer last year. I have a ton of wire and time... all free. I don't know if it is even worth doing the new fuse block.

Anyone want to donate a wiring harness?

 

[rbohm]

since you have the wire and plenty of time, i would get a fuse block from american autowire, or other aftermarket company. you can get just the fuse box, and wire from there, and the fuse box is marked as to what circuits are what.

1: centech has an economy fuse panel with 13 fuses and 28 labeled circuits for $99.00 check out www.autorewire.com

2: you can also check out www.americanautowire.com as they have a few inexpensive fuse block, i dont know if they are marked or not.

 

[68converted]

since you have the wire and plenty of time, i would get a fuse block from american autowire, or other aftermarket company. you can get just the fuse box, and wire from there, and the fuse box is marked as to what circuits are what.

1: centech has an economy fuse panel with 13 fuses and 28 labeled circuits for $99.00 check out www.autorewire.com

2: you can also check out www.americanautowire.com as they have a few inexpensive fuse block, i dont know if they are marked or not.

I have a fuse block (5 bucks) with about a foot of wire pigtail on each wire. It has the blinker/and hazard flashers built in.

 

[Tim65GT]

Checker sellsthese painless units for $10 each.

You could put two or three together.

 

[gunmetal5.0]

Well i'm sorry to hear about that. I'm having similar issues. I have an extra harness I could sell for 125. It's new. Unfortunately can't give it away. And the dog is a pitbull.

 

[mustangman1974]

take a look at your factory wiring diagram. I am sure it has similar circuits. I personally relayed everything I could off the 5 amp radio fuse on my 65. I would run this
1. instrument dome
2. heater, relays
3. radio
4. lights
5. flashers

 

[68converted]

Well i'm sorry to hear about that. I'm having similar issues. I have an extra harness I could sell for 125. It's new. Unfortunately can't give it away. And the dog is a pitbull.

Sorry to hear that you are dealing with it as well. The car is my escape from reality. That is a VERY! generous offer I will look at the finances this week and let you know. It all depends on how much the fuel lines are going to cost me. I think I can put in enough overtime at work to take care of both in one shot. Thanks again!

(mustangman1974)
take a look at your factory wiring diagram. I am sure it has similar circuits. I personally relayed everything I could off the 5 amp radio fuse on my 65. I would run this
1. instrument dome
2. heater, relays
3. radio
4. lights
5. flashers

Thanks. I have a bunch of relays that I can use. I also found another car that has the interior (mostly the dash, carpet and seats) ripped out and I can pick up the dash wiring and could pull the rest of the wire runs out in about an hour. They said I could have the lot for $10 bucks

But then again, another week of OT and I could just get an aftermarket for less of a headache.

 

[mustangman1974]

I just did a 51 chevy pu for a friend. Lets just say it was not "painless" But then again I can understand the escape factor and a challenge sometimes is better.

 

[Rusty67]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you have a fuse block with enough lead wire to make like not so difficult and you also have a ton of spare wire ? Is this fuse block an under dash block or an engine bay fuse block ? How many circuits does it have and how big of a fuse can it take ?

 

[68converted]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you have a fuse block with enough lead wire to make like not so difficult and you also have a ton of spare wire ? Is this fuse block an under dash block or an engine bay fuse block ? How many circuits does it have and how big of a fuse can it take ?

Yes the block goes under the dash, it has a metal bracket holder and each wire leading from the block has about 10"s to a foot of wire. The fuses are the newer flat version. The smallest is 5amp and the largest is a 30amp. (5,10,15,20,30 are the ratings). So I plan to run the relays off two 30's, the heater off of a 15 (14 was original). I will replace a 5 with a 2.5 for the gauges/dash lights and interior lights. Etc.

This may be a project for next winter though as the spring is gaining momentum and I want to drive the car sooo darn bad!

 

[Rusty67]

I don't think there is anything wrong with doing what you are saying. The only thing you need to do when you are doing something like this is make sure its going to be something YOU are happy with. Personally I wouldn't want one fuse running more then one device and I wouldn't want more then one fuse to run one device. Thats just because I like things to be as simple as possible and a problem in a circuit that only runs one device is much easier to trouble shoot and well as giving each device automomy from the others. In other words, one circuit having a problem only effects 1 device. I don't like 2 fuses per device because I'm lazy and would rather just replace 1 fuse if it were to blow out.