Next issue: Axle shaft removal

[Steel Steeds]

I had more wrenching time yesterday, and hit the latest snag: taking out the axle shafts. The Book says to use a slide hammer or use two set screws. I don't have a slide hammer, so I tried to figure out the set screw method from that one lame illustration. It appears to me that you need to run two long threaded screws through the same holes that are currently occupied by those funky rectangular headed studs that hold the axle plate down. Is this right?
If it is, do you simply have to drive those studs out, then replace them when you're finished? If so, any issue with reusing them?

I've got an Auburn Pro diff set up with 3.80 gears all ready to go in, I just need to get the old pumpkin out of there...

 

[MUSTANG J]

Step 1: Remove the drums and shoes

Step 2: Take the four axle retaining nuts off. Stick your socket and extention

though the hole in the axle (that is why it is there).

Step 3: Bolt on a unwanted or un-loved rim on the axle

Step 4: put a piece of 2" x 4' or suitable piece of scrap lumber across the back of

the wheel. (Wood is good)

Step 5: Beat the living *&%$ out of the 2"x 4' with a B.F.H (big &*^%$ hammer). Ten minutes or so (depending on your anger or strenght level) will work the axles free. I rotated the wood around the back of the wheel to give a good even radial beating.

I had not done this for a long time. (it was harder and required more beating then I had remembered). I had the axles out to have them re-drilled when I did my brake up-grade. I think my method has less of a chance of damaging the axle rather then using a slide hammer. The wheel was unharmed durring the beating, but I would not recommend doing it to a wheel you paid alot for or are fond of (just incase).

 

[$50COBRAII]

axle removal

Pull the drum off and reinstall it backwards (inside out) thread the lugnuts on 1/2 way or so. Push the drum flush with the axle then jerk it back. This works for me 99% of the time. It has the slide hammer effect.

 

[Steel Steeds]

Good suggestion, thanks! I'll give that a try.

 

[COBRAIIW]

Of course there ARE auto parts stores and garages that will rent or loan you a large slide hammer.

 

[Steel Steeds]

Pull the drum off and reinstall it backwards (inside out) thread the lugnuts on 1/2 way or so. Push the drum flush with the axle then jerk it back. This works for me 99% of the time. It has the slide hammer effect.

Thanks again for the suggestion! Worked like a charm. Passenger side came out on the second easy pull. Driver's side took a few solid yanks, but popped out with no drama.

After I got those out, I learned first hand what a PITA it is to yank a diff while you are laying on a creeper under a car on jackstands. Those bastids are HEAVY when you're flat on your back.
Sadly, I learned one other thing while I was under there: my differential housing is cracked. I took some pics, but they're at home. I'll post them up later. I noticed while I was working the diff off of the studs that one stud moved with the diff. On looking closer, I saw the crack, looks like it's been that way a while, has some grease/dirt encrusted around it. The crack starts between two of the studs, winds out above one stud beyond where the gasket lies, then curls back in and terminates at another stud.

So, I'm guessing that this is not repairable, and I will need to locate a new axle?
For now, I'm going to button it up. I'm not going to be getting on it too hard while I break in the new motor, so it will hopefully be fine until I can afford to replace it.

Thoughts?

 

[COBRAIIW]

As long as it's not leaking it should hold for NORMAL driving.
I would replace it instead.

 

[Steel Steeds]

The crack is high, in the 1:00 position, so it shouldn't leak. I daubed some extra RTV sealant on it where the gasket doesn't cover it. I wore myself out trying to get the new diff in there by hand and had to give up for a couple days. My triceps are painfully sore... I tell my wife that wrenching is my workout plan!

 

[Steel Steeds]

Finally got around to getting the picture transferred:

I've already buttoned it back up, for now.

 

[welder4956]

It looks repairable to me. It would be much easier to do with the housing removed from the car. If you do it in the car, it is still possible, but there will probably be grit inside the housing after grinding the weld smooth and it will be a pain to get it completely clean.

 

[barrylee66]

buy a used housing dont even screw with that,I have never seen one cracked like that.

 

[Blue coyote]

Do you know anyone who gets up to BC at all? I have a spare 8" housing hanging in the garage, but shipping might be a killer.

$10 and a pack or two of Marlboroughs if you have it picked up...

 

[Steel Steeds]

Do you know anyone who gets up to BC at all? I have a spare 8" housing hanging in the garage, but shipping might be a killer.

$10 and a pack or two of Marlboroughs if you have it picked up...

Thanks. My brother occasionally heads up to Seattle, but BC is an infrequent diversion. I will keep it in mind if anything pops up in the near future.

 

[Blue coyote]

Thanks. My brother occasionally heads up to Seattle, but BC is an infrequent diversion. I will keep it in mind if anything pops up in the near future.

If you luck out, just let me know the day before and I'll have it ready to load up. Bare housing, cleaned and dry, its a spare I got with some brake parts I needed, and I have a couple of complete ones so it'll be around as long as you need...

 

[Steel Steeds]

Cool. Whereabouts in BC are you located?

 

[Blue coyote]

South Coast. Surrey, BC, near the corner of 72nd Ave. and 144th St.

Just post up the day before if you need it. I'm subscribed to this thread and check my email when I get home every night.

 

[Dano78]

Lance, you ever locate a replacement axle housing? Appearantly I need to frequent this sucker more often....
IIRC I should have 1 if not 2 MII axles over at pops' house. Next time I'm over there (and I remember) I'll take a look.

 

[Blue coyote]

And I still have that housing in the garage if you want it (I told ya it wasn't going anywhere, didn't I?)

 

[Steel Steeds]

I did get one, actually. I replied to a posting on Craigslist, and found myself talking with the brother of Todd Scruggs. He had gone to AZ to pick up a bunch of Todd's stuff after his death, and was a bit lost as to what to do with it all. After yakking for a couple of hours, he told me that I could have the axle for free if I would come back some weekend and help him sort and identify parts. I told him no problem!
The icing on the cake is that this rearend has the factory 3.40 gears in it, which is what I want to put in my '77 when I start working on that one.
Another odd note: the build date on this axle is exactly one week before the axle it will be replacing.

So, piled in the garage right now next to the axle is a new e-brake cable, new speedometer cable, and new leaf springs. I'll be picking up a new oil pressure sender (old one is leaking through the top), a new master cylinder, and ordering new brake lines in the next week or so. I'm almost done with the header installation on my Shelby, and the King gets the attention next.
My goal is to have this stuff done in the next few weeks, and get the King scheduled for paint. It's running pretty good, but I still haven't got on it much (400 miles on the motor now).

I have a question: I haven't reinstalled the rear sway bar, I wanted to get new urethane pieces for it. But, I can't get the end links off of the car. No puller I have will fit correctly, and they just twist. I suppose I can burn 'em off, but is there an easier way? My wife gets rather upset with me when I do anything in the garage that sends any odor into the house directly above.

 

[Dano78]

Glad to hear you did score a rear end, very nice that it's a 3.40:1 set! That crazy that the build date is so close... good score!
I was lurking over at the .net site and saw the huge thread about Todd. Too bad, hate to see things end up like that. I didn't know him all that well, but I did talk to him a few times about parts and such. Seemd like a really good guy.


On your sway bar- Are you trying to take it apart where the end link is attached at the sway bar or up on the body? I think I just soaked the piss out of that large nut that mashes together the bushings on the sway bar end. I used PB Blaster and mine came loose fairly easily. I believe that my fastback spent alot of it's life in garages and driven mostly on nice days. The undercarrige of mine is pretty darn clean. I'm trying to picture the body side of the endlink and I can't seem to picure it. I know the body bracket/endlink assy can be pulled buy removing 2 bolts.... but I'm having a hard time picturing the bushed end on that body mount bracket. I'll have to look at mine tomarrow in the light and see if I can remember what I did.