Clutch day
I already installed a Ford Performance billet steel flywheel. I wanted to get the flywheel bolt holes sealed up so I could test my oil pan and rear main for leaks. It's been dry as a bone for weeks and I've been priming the oil system and spinning the engine over by hand... so I think I'm good.
I'm using a McLoed RST twin disc. I wanted to keep the factory pedal feel but increase holding power. The extra surface area of the second disc allows lighter pressure plate springs.
It's actually really simple to install. Just a few more parts. An extra clutch disc and floater.
The dics are both marked top or bottom and both have "flywheel side " sharpie on the side that faces the flywheel.
Bottom first
The Jegs flywheel holder has come in super handy. I bought it years ago for a Coyote I was building. It seems to fit anything.
Then the floater and torque it
Then the top disc
And finally the pressure plate and torque it.
It comes completely shimmed and adjusted from the factory. So it's a bolt on affair. The most important part is keeping the index marks lined up when assembling. The blue stripe.
The transmission is back in and I checked the pedal feel. Feels just like stock. Maybe a little lighter actually.
I read stories like that. Before I ordered I downloaded the instructions and it didn't seem bad at all. So either they did up their game or those stories were universal kits that hadn't been designed for specific applications yet.I have not installed one of these but it sure seems like they have improved their game since the first time I saw one of these installed.
It used to be that you needed 10 different dial gauges and a room of engineers (half of them in conference call with McCleod) in order to get one of these installed correctly.
Yeah, I'm using the factory cable/ quadrant still. It's in good shape so I'll stick with it. The clutch's HP numbers are overkill for me. I was mostly looking to get enough holding power but a light pedal feel. I'll probable be somewhere around 425-450. I figured the lighter effort would help my cable last longer as well.What is that clutch supposed to be able to hold hp wise? Assuming you are still using the clutch cable with it?
Bad for old knees and ankles too.I'm also thinking heavy clutches probably aren't good for our old firewalls. Seen some posts lately about cracks developing.
Great work on the tensioner. I had the same issue with accessing the cutout after everything was installed. Did the best I could but we’ll see if it’s tight enough. Anderson Performance also looks to sell an add on bracket that ‘screws’ the tensioner tighter. Good design I think but you may have solved the issue in your own way.So.... I noticed my transmission was canted. I didn't need to put a level on it. It was considerable off. I checked the motor mounts and they were correctly installed. The nubs were properly in the k member. The mount studs sitting at the bottom of the slots. The mounts sitting flush on the k member. No idea what's up with that but the drivers side was about an inch lower than the passenger. It was almost touching my steering shaft. These were the "convertable" mounts from LMR.
I orderd the energy suspension mounts and installed them and all is well. It's tough to measure these things accurately because of how they are shaped. But the energy mounts appear to be a little shorter. Maybe a ¼".
I have enough clearance on my header / steering shaft
Otherside
I did check hood clearance with the Vortech and it is snug. But will work. I can only guess i got a bad set of "convertable" mounts, but after reading the reviews on them... i dont seem to be alone here.
With that behind me I moved to other stuff. I got a new starter. Way smaller and lighter. I think the 35 year old Motorcraft is due. The Ford Performamce mini starter requires a little wiring re work because it has the solenoid on it. Nothing difficult though, comes with everything needed.
Then I got the exhaust back together. The slenderizing I did on the upper control arms really helped. Lots of clearance even with the panhard bar. The only portion that isn't JetHot coated is the X pipe. I'm still not sure if I'm going to add a torque arm setup later on. I know my x pipe will need to be modded or replaced to fit a TA so I didn't want to waste money on coating that just yet.
Earlier I mentioned making a better way to tension the supercharger belt. The square cut outs for a ratchet to tension are difficult to access, especially with a thick radiator. The sharpie circle is where i want to add a wrenching location.
I was going to use a lugnut, but found this 3/4" stainless cap nut. So I plug welded a stud into the bracket from the backside.
Nut goes on the stud
Works awesome.
Thanks. Yeah, I'm aware of the Anderson tensioner. It seems nice, but also seems easy to overdo the tension and damage the bearings without being able to "feel" it. I like to put a torque wrench on the bracket and hold it to 55 ft lbs while tightening the bolts. Seems to be right for me as I don't have any slippage or notice any improvements by going tighter.Great work on the tensioner. I had the same issue with accessing the cutout after everything was installed. Did the best I could but we’ll see if it’s tight enough. Anderson Performance also looks to sell an add on bracket that ‘screws’ the tensioner tighter. Good design I think but you may have solved the issue in your own way.
The Vortech bracket makes relocation of the charcoal canister necessary. The instructions call to remove one of the screws and cock it over to clear the supercharger bracket. It works, but looks cheesy. So I'm gonna relocate it out of sight.
Start with this
Gonna use some parts of the original steel mounting bracket.
I installed two ruvnuts in the passenger side wheel apron that the bracket will mount to.
This is the bracket after a coat of paint
I'm going to mount the canister purge solenoid to the bracket I made. It has a rubber sleeve on it which will work nice to cushion it on the bracket.
Then I can mount it to the bracket with a hose clamp and hook up the lines
Mounts behind the passenger wheel well behind the splash shield
Hmm. That's kinda cool. I could see it handy for some things.You do your wires how I do wires.
Kind of off-topic but I have to show you something you may find interesting:
I discovered this thing when I was working on boats.
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