I've tried multiple times to get the Cylinder Balance Test to run, but it's not working. I wait for the KOER codes to be done, then I go WOT for a second and then I just get that code 77 which is user error, basically. Someone wanna post up a walkthrough..I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
I have a similar yet stranger problem. I get a code 22 which means my BAP sensor is bad. With NO sensor plugged in, my cylinder ID reads a 6cyl. even though I had a v8.
If I PLUG A NEW BAP IN, I get rid of the code 22 (MIL goes out) and the C-ID says 8cyl. The car will not start cold and, I get a code 77 even though I goosed the throttle, and I can't run a CBT.
Thanks, I'll try that. The reason I want to is because I've been noticing my oil pressure gauge being around the A in NORMAL, at times, and that seems kinda low. I know it's a stock gauge, but if it's close, some work may have to be done..