No fuel, Need help ASAP

[mat82284]

Last night my car was running fine, i was cruising at 70mph and just filled up my tank at chevron. After 3 mins of driving the car completely stops as if the spark or gas is not working. I checked my spark and its fine, I pulled the fuel linel to the fuel rail and turned the key to on and no fuel came out. I then took the fuel rails off the injectors and i found some small pieces of plastic it looked like on the injectors. I have no idea how those got there, the injectors were installed new 1k miles ago.

I jacked up the car and checked the fuel filter for a clog it was clean. I turned the key to the on position and fuel shot out the other end of the fuel filter. So somewhere after the fuel filter and before the end of the fuel line, fuel is not making it out the line.

I noticed a big silver circle piece connected to the fuel line that goes into the fuel rail, it also has a ford part number on it.

Could the fuel pump modual cause this, or does it sound like i have a clog in the lines? If so how do i fix this? Also is it possible to remove the big silver circle?

Here is a photo of the silver circle.

 

[blackink00]

thats not the problem and with the fuel rail up and turning the key on fuel shouldnt shoot out of the injectors unless the engine is cranking. i would check the crank position sensor.

 

[mat82284]

thats not the problem and with the fuel rail up and turning the key on fuel shouldnt shoot out of the injectors unless the engine is cranking. i would check the crank position sensor.

Actually, there is no fuel at all in the rails, when i turn the key to the on position or try to crank it, no fuel at all comes out of the fuel line. I pulled the line, like you see in the photo and cranked it and nothing came out. How would the crank sensor stop the fuel from getting to the rails?

So somewhere after the fuel filter and before the rails, the fuel is not making it. There is no pressure at all in rails. The fuel pumps work because fuel shot out of the fuel filter when i turned the key to the on position. Something is preventing the system from getting pressure. Could the fuel pump module have anything to do with this?

 

[bhuff30]

Exactly how forcefully did fuel squirt out of the fuel filter when it was disconnected? It should have wet about an area the size of your car if everything was working correctly. We are talking about 100psi in a 1/4" line for several seconds, and fuel spreads very easily on the ground. If it didn't spray that much fuel, then it's very possible the fuel pump is dying, and had just enough force to push fuel out at the fuel filter, but not enough to push it to the fuel rail.

The part you are showing us looks like a pulse dampener, and I seriously doubt that could be causing the problem. I'm betting on the fuel pump unless you really wet an area the size of your car.

 

[mat82284]

Exactly how forcefully did fuel squirt out of the fuel filter when it was disconnected? It should have wet about an area the size of your car if everything was working correctly. We are talking about 100psi in a 1/4" line for several seconds, and fuel spreads very easily on the ground. If it didn't spray that much fuel, then it's very possible the fuel pump is dying, and had just enough force to push fuel out at the fuel filter, but not enough to push it to the fuel rail.

The part you are showing us looks like a pulse dampener, and I seriously doubt that could be causing the problem. I'm betting on the fuel pump unless you really wet an area the size of your car.

Actually im not sure how much fuel actually came out, and to your theory its actually wrong. If you looked at my mods you would see that i have 2 svt focus pumps installed in the car. They have about 1k miles on them and were both new, so thats would have to be a huge fluke for them both to fail, especially at the same time.

Any other suggestions on what it could be, minus the pumps being the issue.

 

[blackink00]

just follow the line and look for kinks or something. maybe try to blow compressed air from the filter out to the fuel rail. a fuel pump driver shouldnt do this

 

[mat82284]

just follow the line and look for kinks or something. maybe try to blow compressed air from the filter out to the fuel rail. a fuel pump driver shouldnt do this

Actually, i looked for kinks and it was good.

Basically this is how it happened. I was giving my friend a ride and filled up my tank from 1/8th a tank to full. I then got on the freeway and my friend asked me to floor it so he can feel 500hp. I then dropped to third gear and took it to 6k rpms. I then slowed down to 75-80mph and drove for 45-60 seconds. After that the car stopped revving and wouldn't move. The rpm gauge slowly fell till the car died. Then i was coasting and i got it to start back up, but hitting the gas did nothing, but it only stayed on for 5 seconds then died. Then it wouldn't start at all after that. I couldn't see anyway the fuel line could have been kinked from this, but i did find some plastic on top of 3 of the fuel injectors which i found very strange. I'm going to just replace the fuel filter tomorrow and see if it fixed it. The fuel filter doesn't have any plastic in it does it? Maybe the fuel filter busted?

I also reprogrammed my ecu to double check the pcm.

How could i get compressed air to the fuel lines? I don't have any air compressor is there any other way to test that?


And thanks to everyone for the suggestions, i'm hoping to fix this soon because its my Daily driver

 

[joshjwc9]

Did you trip the fuel pump switch in the trunk? Did any PCM or Fuel Pump fuses blow for some reason?

 

[mat82284]

Did you trip the fuel pump switch in the trunk? Did any PCM or Fuel Pump fuses blow for some reason?

All fuses, relays, and inertia switch were checked and are all good. I didnt check the power to the inertia switch, ill have to do that though.

 

[bhuff30]

No need to insult me, I saw that you have dual pumps, but that may not matter if one failed.

If one pump fails, can you still draw or push fuel flow through a non-moving pump? There are many pump styles that do not allow any flow when stopped even if there is another , such as gear driven pumps like your oil pump. I am just not sure about fuel pumps, but my thinking is that it will not allow flow. So if only one pump failed, it is possible you wouldn't get any fuel flow. That was my point.

Actually im not sure how much fuel actually came out, and to your theory its actually wrong. If you looked at my mods you would see that i have 2 svt focus pumps installed in the car. They have about 1k miles on them and were both new, so thats would have to be a huge fluke for them both to fail, especially at the same time.

Any other suggestions on what it could be, minus the pumps being the issue.

 

[GT Tommy]

No fuel at fuel rail?

Here's what I would do to make sure your fuel pump is working properly. Disconnect the fuel pump module wire connector at the rear of the gas tank under the bumber. With the fuel line disconnected up forward like in the picture your provided, place the end of the fuel line in a plastic catch container. Have someone apply direct voltage to the two wires that are running to the fuel pump module assembly. One of the wires is a ground wire and the other is a positive wire. So, run wires from the batter directly to these two wires. Make sure they are the wires running to the fuel pump module. If your fuel pump is running ok, it should keep pumping fuel out into the plastic bottle until you disconnect the wires from the battery source. If fuel does not come out of the fuel line which you have placed in the catch bottle, it may be that the pulse dampener as identified by someone else in this post could be plugged. I would then try if possible to disconnect the pulse dampener completely, then replace the fuel line in the plastic catch bottle, then try hooking up the battery source wires again to the fuel pump module. By testing your fuel pump this way, your fuel pump should pump continously as long as you supply direct voltage. If you try testing it with your ignition switch, your pump will only come on for a second or two then stop. I'm thinking perhaps with the fresh gas from the gas station, sometimes rubbish from the tank at the gas station will get pumped into your gas tank, it could then plug your fuel system somewhere. This has happened to others before. Be extremely cautious while testing your fuel pump module this way. Two or three people helping you will be best. Make sure your fuel filter is hooked back up properly when you do the test. Don't try to do this yourself. Get the help you need. If you are running two pumps, it makes no difference, they are both powered up by the same source. Even if one pump went bad, the other should still be working. When you said that you disconnected your fuel filter, and gas did shoot out, that indicates that you do have power up to your fuel pump module. But like I said, with your ignition switch, your pump will only pump for a second or two. Not really long enough to deternine how much gas your fuel pump is pushing. Good luck and let us know what happens.

 

[mat82284]

Here's what I would do to make sure your fuel pump is working properly. Disconnect the fuel pump module wire connector at the rear of the gas tank under the bumber. With the fuel line disconnected up forward like in the picture your provided, place the end of the fuel line in a plastic catch container. Have someone apply direct voltage to the two wires that are running to the fuel pump module assembly. One of the wires is a ground wire and the other is a positive wire. So, run wires from the batter directly to these two wires. Make sure they are the wires running to the fuel pump module. If your fuel pump is running ok, it should keep pumping fuel out into the plastic bottle until you disconnect the wires from the battery source. If fuel does not come out of the fuel line which you have placed in the catch bottle, it may be that the pulse dampener as identified by someone else in this post could be plugged. I would then try if possible to disconnect the pulse dampener completely, then replace the fuel line in the plastic catch bottle, then try hooking up the battery source wires again to the fuel pump module. By testing your fuel pump this way, your fuel pump should pump continously as long as you supply direct voltage. If you try testing it with your ignition switch, your pump will only come on for a second or two then stop. I'm thinking perhaps with the fresh gas from the gas station, sometimes rubbish from the tank at the gas station will get pumped into your gas tank, it could then plug your fuel system somewhere. This has happened to others before. Be extremely cautious while testing your fuel pump module this way. Two or three people helping you will be best. Make sure your fuel filter is hooked back up properly when you do the test. Don't try to do this yourself. Get the help you need. If you are running two pumps, it makes no difference, they are both powered up by the same source. Even if one pump went bad, the other should still be working. When you said that you disconnected your fuel filter, and gas did shoot out, that indicates that you do have power up to your fuel pump module. But like I said, with your ignition switch, your pump will only pump for a second or two. Not really long enough to deternine how much gas your fuel pump is pushing. Good luck and let us know what happens.

Thanks, ill give that a try today. I probably wont be able to try for a few hours though. The fuel line dampener is that silver piece on the fuel line right. Part number VF1ZE-AA

Also i tried to pull it off before and it didn't budge. Is that hose covering a metal line or does the damper just get in between the hose?

No need to insult me, I saw that you have dual pumps, but that may not matter if one failed.

If one pump fails, can you still draw or push fuel flow through a non-moving pump? There are many pump styles that do not allow any flow when stopped even if there is another , such as gear driven pumps like your oil pump. I am just not sure about fuel pumps, but my thinking is that it will not allow flow. So if only one pump failed, it is possible you wouldn't get any fuel flow. That was my point.

I wasn't trying to insult you. I was on my phone working on my car at the time i typed that. It was really hot and i was irritated. I didn't mean to insult you and after rereading it, i know that it sounded that way. Thanks for your advice.

 

[mat82284]

What are the voltages supposed to be at the inertia pump. I tested the wires with the ignition switch on and the Green Wire with yellow stripe read 0 volts. The pink wire with black stripe read .29v Arn't these both supposed to be 12v? If so what could cause this and what is a possible fix?

The pump still turns on every time i turn the key to the on position though.

 

[GT Tommy]

Pulse Dampener Removal?

I have never removed it before, so I can't answer that question. Hopefully someone else has, and can give you some info. I checked the part number you listed and can't find anything. Does it have a brand listed on it anywhere? Are you able to take a picture of it from a bottom view to see what it looks like? That may help. What year, model and engine size do you have to make sure? I'm assuming it is a 4.6 engine. All this time, I thought this so called, Pulse Dampener, was a check valve, to keep the fuel from returning to the gas tank from the line it is on. Perhaps the person who identified as a Pulse Dampener, can give us more info on it with confirmation of it's identity. That would be great! Good luck, Tommy.

 

[mat82284]

Ok i rechecked the voltage at the inertia switch and i realised i was checking it wrong. I connected my multimeter to both wires and got 11v. I then connected the clip back in the inertia switch and the voltage went to 0. Why did it do that? Is that supposed to happen? Could this be the reason, could my inertia switch gone bad?

I hit the switch hard enough to pop the button and when the button was popped it read 11v again, but when i repressed the button the voltage went back to zero. Can someone test there inertia switch for me and see if this is supposed to happen?

 

[GT Tommy]

Inertia Switch Operation!

The way I understand how the inertia switch works is, if the button on the switch is up, you will only have voltage on one side of the switch. That is the side that is coming from your Constant Control Relay in the engine compartment. If the button is pressed down, and it stays down, you should have voltage on both sides of the switch. So, the switch button must be all the way down for voltage to past through it. If you have voltage on both sides of the switch, then you press the switch again, you just openned the switch and you will now only have voltage on one side of the switch. Just make sure the switch button is down then test for voltage at both ends of the switch. If you have voltage at both ends of the switch, that means the switch is ok. If after you press the button down, and it stays down, and you now only have voltage on one side of the switch, that means the switch is no good, or, if the switch button is popping up everytime you turn your ignition switch on, that means there is a short in the system where, probably up forward in the engine compartment. Also, if it checks out ok, but when you bolt the switch back to the car body and the switch trips open again, then it sounds like the switch is bad. Make sure none of the wires are bare and touching the cars body when you bolt back the switch. Check this out and let us know what you find. By the way, I did some checking on the Pulse Dampener. It indeed appears to be a Pulse Dampener. I just can't find any info on who sells it. It looks like this may be a Dealer item. Again, check on the inertia switch and let us know what you come up with. Good luck, Tommy.

 

[mat82284]

The way I understand how the inertia switch works is, if the button on the switch is up, you will only have voltage on one side of the switch. That is the side that is coming from your Constant Control Relay in the engine compartment. If the button is pressed down, and it stays down, you should have voltage on both sides of the switch. So, the switch button must be all the way down for voltage to past through it. If you have voltage on both sides of the switch, then you press the switch again, you just openned the switch and you will now only have voltage on one side of the switch. Just make sure the switch button is down then test for voltage at both ends of the switch. If you have voltage at both ends of the switch, that means the switch is ok. If after you press the button down, and it stays down, and you now only have voltage on one side of the switch, that means the switch is no good, or, if the switch button is popping up everytime you turn your ignition switch on, that means there is a short in the system where, probably up forward in the engine compartment. Check this out and let us know what you find. By the way, I did some checking on the Pulse Dampener. It indeed appears to be a Pulse Dampener. I just can't find any info on who sells it. It looks like this may be a Dealer item. Again, check on the inertia switch and let us know what you come up with. Good luck, Tommy.

Well im sure its not the dampener because its starting to feel like something else. I'm wondering if its the switch. The first time i tested it, i took my back wire on my mutlimeter and grounded it, i then took the red wire and touched both wires and the Green Wire with yellow stripe read 0 volts. The pink wire with black stripe read .29v

I then thought that i read it wrong, so i went ahead and connected the black wire (one multimeter) to the green wire on the harness and the red wire (on multimeter) to the pink wire on the harness and got 11v, but i only got 11v when the harness was outside of the switch and when the switch tripped. The switch wasnt tripped so i didnt think to check the wiring. I'm going to connect the switch and turn on the ignition and read the wires voltage the same way i did the first time. Ill report back in a few mins.


Edit:
Ok the switch seems to be working fine, i got 11v on both sides of the wire. I am totally stumped. I also noticed my theft light flashing when im trying to start the car. I tried removing the negative 30mins but the theft light still flashes. I dont remember if it flashed before when i cranked the car. Is it supposed to?

Has anyone ever heard of a pats key being deprogrammed?

One last question someone mentioned a crank position sensor, How can i test that and where is it located?

 

[GT Tommy]

Fuel Pump Testing!

Well im sure its not the dampener because its starting to feel like something else. I'm wondering if its the switch. The first time i tested it, i took my back wire on my mutlimeter and grounded it, i then took the red wire and touched both wires and the Green Wire with yellow stripe read 0 volts. The pink wire with black stripe read .29v

I then thought that i read it wrong, so i went ahead and connected the black wire (one multimeter) to the green wire on the harness and the red wire (on multimeter) to the pink wire on the harness and got 11v, but i only got 11v when the harness was outside of the switch and when the switch tripped. The switch wasnt tripped so i didnt think to check the wiring. I'm going to connect the switch and turn on the ignition and read the wires voltage the same way i did the first time. Ill report back in a few mins.


Edit:
Ok the switch seems to be working fine, i got 11v on both sides of the wire. I am totally stumped. I also noticed my theft light flashing when im trying to start the car. I tried removing the negative 30mins but the theft light still flashes. I dont remember if it flashed before when i cranked the car. Is it supposed to?

Has anyone ever heard of a pats key being deprogrammed?

One last question someone mentioned a crank position sensor, How can i test that and where is it located?

If you could test the fuel pump the way I suggested, that would eliminate alot of things. If you can't test it from the Pulse Dampener, perhaps you can test it with your fuel filter line disconnected again. However, I would run a temporary hose from the fuel filter to a plastic catch bottle. Then apply voltage to the two fuel pump module wires like I mentioned previously. If your fuel pump pumps steady at that point, then yes, checking your crankshaft sensor would be my next check. Let me see if I can find some test info on that. Again, be very careful when testing your fuel system this way. Do it only if you feel confident. Again, what year is the car and engine size? Good luck, Tommy.

 

[blackink00]

its definitly your pats then. theres nothing you can do but take it to the dealership and have them reprogram the key. if you have a spare try it first but your gonna need two keys to have them program them. your car should be fine after that. guess your pats had a fit and decided to loose programming. i wouldnt worry about the pump of crank position switch at all till you get the keys programmed.

 

[mat82284]

its definitly your pats then. theres nothing you can do but take it to the dealership and have them reprogram the key. if you have a spare try it first but your gonna need two keys to have them program them. your car should be fine after that. guess your pats had a fit and decided to loose programming. i wouldnt worry about the pump of crank position switch at all till you get the keys programmed.

Ok, well i took the battery out for 2 hours and came back to it, the car no longer blinks theft, but didnt start. I then decided to drop my tank. At this point i didnt know what to expect, but one of the hoses in the tank blew. The hoses are rated to 80psi but somehow one of then broke open, causing them to loose pressure and not send fuel.

So the car works now, thanks to that crappy hose. I put new hoses on and it started right up.

Thanks everyone for your advice