no power to anything??

N

nightster1200

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Apr 2, 2013

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#1

• Apr 2, 2013

• #1

i tried to start my car and it fired up and then quit, then i tried it again and i had no power when i turned the key forward, no power to headlights, dashlights anything. is there a main fuse? any ideas where to start.

 

Noobz347

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#2

• Apr 2, 2013

• #2

Check fuses and fusible links.


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds



After that, I would take a look at the ignition switch.


Pic courtesy of Late Model Restoration Supply

 

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N

nightster1200

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#3

• Apr 2, 2013

• #3

thanks mann i will check the fuseable links, doesnt seem lke an ignition switch issue, because i have no headlights, dashlights or signal lights

 

boostfrk

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#4

• Apr 2, 2013

• #4

Check grounds too and make sure you have clean metal connections where they attach. I had some erratic electronics yesterday and a bad ground was the culprit. Like you, the car started, I ran it for a couple minutes then shut it off. Went to start it back up and it was dead as a doorknob.

 

blackfive-o

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Apr 23, 2012

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#5

• Apr 2, 2013

• #5

Battery?

 

N

nightster1200

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#6

• Apr 2, 2013

• #6

not the battery, checked all the grounds i can find, all the fuseable links are good, ready to burn her

 

N

nightster1200

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#7

• Apr 2, 2013

• #7

does this sound like a bad solinoid? how do i check it properly?

 

Noobz347

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#8

• Apr 2, 2013

• #8

Solenoid wouldn't effect everything... Would only effect starting.

Did you shoot each fusible link?

 

N

nightster1200

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#9

• Apr 2, 2013

• #9

yep, i checked every fuseable link for continuity, im thinking i should try again and check them for voltage drop

 

N

nightster1200

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#10

• Apr 2, 2013

• #10

all the fuseable links are good

 

jrichker

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#11

• Apr 2, 2013

• #11

Voltage drop testing of connections and grounds.

Use a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across a connection or wire. Adding length to the test leads may be required, and does not affect the accuracy of the test. Use 18-20 gauge wire for the test leads if you have to lengthen them.

Voltage drop testing must be done while the usual load is on the circuit. If it is a starter, it has to be tested while cranking the starter. If it is lights, A/C or fan, they must be turned on high while testing. Fail to do this and you will not get accurate results

1.) Most grounds use the negative battery post as their starting point.
2.) The voltage will be small if the ground is good: less voltage drop = better connection.
3.) Be sure that the power to the circuit is on, and the circuit is being used in its normal manner. For instance, if it is a light circuit, the lights on that circuit should be powered on.
4.) To measure grounds, place one DVM lead on the battery negative post and the other on the wire or connector that goes to ground.
5.) Read the voltage drop: Light duty circuits (1-5 amps) should show .1-.25 volts. Medium duty circuits (6-25 amps) should show .25-.5 volts. Heavy duty circuits (26 amps up) should show .5-.75 volt drop. A voltage drop lower that spec is always acceptable.
6.)
See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. .

 

mikestang63

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#12

• Apr 2, 2013

• #12

Have you checked for voltage at points like the alternator, starter, + post on the solenoid? Trace the + battery cable to the + post on the Starter solenoid and start checking voltage from there and then work your way along the wiring.

 

N

nightster1200

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#13

• Apr 2, 2013

• #13

i cant even check voltage drop of the starting circut, it doesnt crank

 

N

nightster1200

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• Apr 2, 2013

• #14

mikestang63 said:

Have you checked for voltage at points like the alternator, starter, + post on the solenoid? Trace the + battery cable to the + post on the Starter solenoid and start checking voltage from there and then work your way along the wiring.

Click to expand...

there is power at the pos side of the solinoid, and the small pos

 

mikestang63

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#15

• Apr 2, 2013

• #15

nightster1200 said:

there is power at the pos side of the solinoid, and the small pos

Click to expand...

what about the Alternator? Got power there? Sounds like a fuseable link gone.

 

N

nightster1200

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#16

• Apr 2, 2013

• #16

i think its a ground somewhere, i just turned my key forward and i had power and when i tried to start it, it clicked once, just like a dead battery

 

Noobz347

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Apr 2, 2013

#17

• Apr 2, 2013

• #17

nightster1200 said:

i think its a ground somewhere, i just turned my key forward and i had power and when i tried to start it, it clicked once, just like a dead battery

Click to expand...

Bad grounds can cause some screwy things for sure... Total electrical loss is not usually one of them unless it's the battery terminal. There's more than one ground in the car. If one is bad, you'd still have power to some systems... even if it were erratic.

 

N

nightster1200

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#18

• Apr 2, 2013

• #18

thanks guys, i got it running. i cleaned all the grounds and tightened the outta them. car fired right up