Engine No start after HCI swap

Slygh93 · Apr 6, 2020

So I’m sure there is another thread out there but I can’t seem to find my exact issue. I recently installed Gt40p heads and an Anderson n41 cam. The car already had a TF track heat intake from the previous owner. But any who, I got the car all put back together and after watching several videos and reading instructions I set the timing(first time I had ever done this). The car would just crank and crank but make no effort to start at all. So I thought maybe the timing was 180 degrees out. So I rotated the harmonic balancer and re stabbed. I did this several times and would occasionally get a backfire but mostly just cranking. I even pulled the valve covers back off to verify I was at top dead center on piston number one and then re installed at 10* btdc. I’m 90% sure the timing is right. Could there be something else I’m missing? Any help would be great!

General karthief · Apr 6, 2020

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...

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Slygh93 · Apr 7, 2020

Ok checking back in. I followed an online test for testing my coil and it came back bad, I replaced it with an accel coil and now my spark checker lights up when cranking, but still no start. So I recheck the fuel pressure and the pump primes up to 40ish but w/ in 10 seconds it has gone all the way back to 0. When cranking the car maintains about 20psi but still does not start. The injectors are old.. or they at least look old. They are ford racing 24lb injectors that we’re on the car when I bought it.. stuck open injector? Bad fuel pump? Something else? Seems to unusual to be having these “Random” issues right after a cam and head swap. Car only sat for maybe 2 weeks. There’s gotta be something I’m missing. Also The fuel pump is maybe 2 years old. Wahlboro 155lph

Monkeybutt2000 · Apr 7, 2020

Did you go through the checklist?

90sickfox · Apr 8, 2020

Since you cranked it with no spark the spark plugs may be fouled. Pull them and dry them off with a little brake clean and try again.

One injector won't keep the car from starting.

Slygh93 · Apr 9, 2020

I’m beginning to think it’s the fuel pump. I pulled the injectors our just enough to see the tips and had my brother turn the key to on to see if any where stuck open.. but they weren’t. Then i had him crank for about 10 seconds to make sure they were all spraying and they are. I only get about 19psi on the gauge while cranking. I would think that would be enough pressure to get the car to try to start. But it only hiccups a few times and then just cranks.

Slygh93 · Apr 9, 2020

Oh and the last 2 times I primed the fuel pump, I only got 10psi. All signs point to a fuel issue, but just seems weird that in 2 weeks of down time this issue developed on a car that often sits for 2 weeks to begin with

Boostedpimp · Apr 9, 2020

I would figure if your seeing fuel at the injectors it's not a fuel issue to worry about yet. You have verified your getting spark so I would probably go over the timing again if it were me. Would also pull oil dipstick and make sure it doesn't smell of fuel and pull the plugs and check them out. Like mentioned above possibly fouled the plugs with your no spark condition.

General karthief · Apr 9, 2020

A fuel pump issue can be progressive, the hose from the pump to the hard line in the tank could be split too.

Slygh93 · Apr 9, 2020

So, after retracing all my steps from the build and comparing them to videos online(this is my first foray into heads and cams) I realized I installed my rockers on top dead center of the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke. I thought when both valves were closed on cylinder one that you where there. So I swapped it all around and when I went to start the car it still just cranked. When I checked my fuel pressure gauge it had 0psi. So I’ll check back in when I drop the tank tomorrow

Slygh93 · Apr 9, 2020

I also restabbed the distributor when I had the valves in the correct position

Mstng93SSP · Apr 9, 2020

If you adjusted your rockers with both intake and exhaust closed that was correct. I usually get it at #1 top dead center, adjust intake and exhaust on #1. Then I turn the engine over until the distributor rotor points at the next spark plug post on the distributor cap and adjust the valves for that cylinder (which would be #3 because you follow the firing order). The turn it over until it points at the next post on the cap (which would be #7) and adjust the valves on #7 and etc. for the rest of the firing order. Then make sure you are back at #1 top dead center when you are done, and put in (don't "stab") the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1. Car should start and you adjust timing from there.

Chris

Cheapskate207 · Apr 11, 2020

I think an important point was missed.. did the car run before you took it apart?

Slygh93 · Apr 11, 2020

Cheapskate207 said:
I think an important point was missed.. did the car run before you took it apart?

Yes it did. Car head been running and driven about once a week. I dropped the tank this morning and disconnected the line to the fuel filter and had my wife turn the key to the on position. Got hardly any fuel to come out at all some I’m going to order a new pump. Now that I have the rockers set correctly I’m pretty confident it will fire up when I have fuel

Cheapskate207 · Apr 11, 2020

Keep us posted. I find it suspect that the fuel pump would die when you had the car apart but stranger things have happened.

Slygh93 · Apr 17, 2020

So while I do have fuel pressure now due to the new fuel pump.. it did not fix the issue. So I bought a compression tester.. which I should have done from the beginning. No compression so I obviously need to back up some. What would cause this? Obviously valves being open.. but pushrods to long? Rockers still installed wrong? I’ve obviously done something wrong. I’m just not sure where to start.

General karthief · Apr 17, 2020

I would start by going back to my rocker arm adjustment. Actually the thing I would do is roll the engine over till a valve is on the base circle and slowly loosen the rocker nut and see if the spring moves indicating the rocker is holding the valve open but I don't always do things in a logical manner.

Cheapskate207 · Apr 17, 2020

I have no experience with those heads and cam.. maybe someone will chime in with advice. I would confirm tdc. Then take a look at the roller tip pattern on the valve. You can do this by putting marker on the valve, Setting valve lash, and rotating the engine a few times. The line should be in the middle of the valve. If it isn’t, buy a push rod length checker to verify correct push rod length. If it is, proceed to set valve lash. How are you doing this now? Easiest way is probably the intake open, exhaust closed method. You rotate the engine until the intake valve just starts to open. At this point you know that the exhaust is fully closed, so you set valve last on that valve. Then rotate motor until exhaust valve just starts to open and adjust the intake rocker. Do this for all cylinders. There are ways to do it and not spin the motor over as many times, but they aren’t as fool proof.
Recap on questions:
What length push rods?
What ratio rockers and style (Stud or pedestal)
How are you setting valve lash?
Did you put a new timing set on?

Cheapskate207 · Apr 17, 2020

PS sorry it’s giving you a hard time. That sucks man and i feel for you... been there before. Heck I’m currently in a similar situation with my car! It’s a lot of work for a less than desirable result. Try not to get discouraged though! You’ll figure it out!!

Slygh93 · Apr 17, 2020

Cheapskate207 said:
I have no experience with those heads and cam.. maybe someone will chime in with advice. I would confirm tdc. Then take a look at the roller tip pattern on the valve. You can do this by putting marker on the valve, Setting valve lash, and rotating the engine a few times. The line should be in the middle of the valve. If it isn’t, buy a push rod length checker to verify correct push rod length. If it is, proceed to set valve lash. How are you doing this now? Easiest way is probably the intake open, exhaust closed method. You rotate the engine until the intake valve just starts to open. At this point you know that the exhaust is fully closed, so you set valve last on that valve. Then rotate motor until exhaust valve just starts to open and adjust the intake rocker. Do this for all cylinders. There are ways to do it and not spin the motor over as many times, but they aren’t as fool proof.
Recap on questions:
What length push rods?
What ratio rockers and style (Stud or pedestal)
How are you setting valve lash?
Did you put a new timing set on?

Pushrods are trick flow 6.300” I read multiple forums with guys running Gt40p and Anderson n41 cam using those or stock lengths.. I have a push rod length checker but could not find my caliper when I was ready to check. So I trusted the forum I had read. I was definitely rushing a tiny bit the first time around.. I was excited to fire up my first cam/head job. But for setting lash I would find top dead center on the compression stroke, finger tighten with the socket and then put the torque wrench on and torque to 18’ lbs for both exhaust and intake Then rotate the crank pulley 90 degrees and go to the next cylinder in the firing order. Each rocker was in the 1/2-1 full turn before reaching torque. The rockers are crane cam 1.6 rockers pedestal mount and the timing set was a brand new double roller lined up dot to dot. I’m pretty sure I’ve answered all the questions. I appreciate all the help and quick responses from everybody. It’s supposed to rain all day tomorrow in DE so I’ll get back to it on Sunday.

Engine No start after HCI swap

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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Mustang Master

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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Member

You have a nice rear end there Dave.

The left one hangs a little lower

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The left one hangs a little lower

Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

The left one hangs a little lower

The left one hangs a little lower

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