( 93 notch 5.0 mostly stock ) I bought this car a few months ago and its a dog (slow)has a MSD ignition but if i un hook it and use stock ign it runs better but still a dog ive been working and working on this thing it was runnin lean missing bad i gave it a full tune up and put 255 fuel pump,adj fuel press reg,24#injectors w/MAF,distributor,O2 sensors,coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensor,idle air control valve, egr block off and resister thang ,all this and it runs a little better but still not right so im goofing off today and take throttle position sensor completely off and go for a ride and it came to life ran really really strong WTF so i hooked MSD ign back up and it works fine still running strong . so what do i do leave it off ? can i ? and what is its job ? !!! thanks !!! o and during all this work i put a new ECM in it also but it didnt help so i took back out and returned it !!
NO TPS and runs way stronger????
- Thread starter ybrik
- Start date
TenorPlayinGuy
Founding Member
Well before the insert of the Checklist, The TPS gives the computer another measurement to calculate total load (Correct me if I am wrong) without it the computer would either be MAX or MIN all the time. (Again Correct me if I am Wrong).
It would be best to find out exactly what is causing your car to run bad in the first place. Perhaps the TPS signal is what was causing the issue. If you have an O-scope you can test the curve of your TPS sensor to make sure it has a consistent and progressive analog signal. You can use a regular Volt meter, make sure the Voltage is near or below 1 volt at idle, and above or near 5 volts at WOT.
Again I am sure this is covered in the checklist. I had the same issue a while back with my 6AL, but I fixed so many wiring issues that eventually it fixed itself.
But if your TPS being unplugged makes more power, than that right there would ask the question about whether your wiring for the TPS to the computer is faulty or not.
Good luck.
It would be best to find out exactly what is causing your car to run bad in the first place. Perhaps the TPS signal is what was causing the issue. If you have an O-scope you can test the curve of your TPS sensor to make sure it has a consistent and progressive analog signal. You can use a regular Volt meter, make sure the Voltage is near or below 1 volt at idle, and above or near 5 volts at WOT.
Again I am sure this is covered in the checklist. I had the same issue a while back with my 6AL, but I fixed so many wiring issues that eventually it fixed itself.
But if your TPS being unplugged makes more power, than that right there would ask the question about whether your wiring for the TPS to the computer is faulty or not.
Good luck.
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
Nope, not even close.
http://*******.com/index.php/topic,1031.0.html
WTF is that site filtered?
The following will get you a link to the page:
http://www.google.com/search?q=Last+Edit:+November+24,+2006,+08:54:53+pm+by+Joel5.0&btnG=Search
Basically, it's the RATE OF CHANGE that the EEC cares about wrt to the TPS. It gets down to simple basic physics and engine design - the need for "accelerator pump and dashpot".
So, screwing around with the TPS is a Ricer MOD - foolish.
Back to the OP, did you read the EEC codes? If not, then why are you even touching the engine and sensors??
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