Noisy Hydraulic Lifters - Any Fix Ideas ?

Thanks for all the input guys. I found the write up on SBF.com and is well written for sure, great pics etc, but also the same procedure I have used from the Comp Cams site. I will see if I can find time today to go through the adjustment process again, this time I will:

• Run the engine up to temp before starting the adjustments
• Rather than spin the push rod, will try the up/down wiggling method
• Will use 3/4 turn for adjustment

If this still produces noise, I am going to switch to 20w50 oil (another thread where I posted ? about best oil to use and why). I'll let you know how it turns out.

Can you post a picture of the tip of the valve?

woodsnake said:

Can you post a picture of the tip of the valve?

Click to expand...

Will do. I will also try to get video before and after and post if no improvement.

jcode68 said:

I agree, this is probably the best way to do it, but I am not willing to have oil spew all over everything and make a mess of my engine bay. That said, I have read that some have cut the tops off old set of valve covers, leaving enough room to make adjustments. Does this prevent oil from getting everywhere or is it still pretty messy?

Click to expand...

We cut a slot in an old valve cover with an angle grinder to allow access to the rocker nuts. The cover was cleaned and deburred to remove any metal or particles that might drop onto the heads.

The engine is started and warmed up. The rocker nut is lossend slowly until the valve starts to tick. Then the nut is tightened until it stops ticking and adding 1/2 to 3/4 turn will put it at zero lash.
The idea here is to compress the plunger in the lifter about .060. This will allow the lifter to function properly and keep the valve train quiet.

My son Chris had a 5 foot hose and put it to his ear and the other end close to the valve I was adjusting. He would tell me when it started to click (loosening) and when it stopped (tightening). I then tightened it 1/2 a turn more very slowly.

Took about 30 minutes to do both heads.

Here is a link to our website with pictures:
Click HERE==> Valves




Good Luck and Be Safe
Ron

Found the problem - simple (stupid) fix!

Well my problem ended up NOT being noisy rockers, but rather a massive exhaust leak! Before I jumped straight into adjusting the rockers, I decided to check my headers for a possible exhaust leak. I have read posts where the sound from exhaust leak sounds like a loud ticking and fools people into thinking it is valve train noise. So my headers were tight and not leaking at all, but I just happened to put my hand near the back of the cyclinder head on passenger side (this is the side most of the noise was coming from) and there was a huge amount of air puffing from the back side of the cylinder head. It turns out that the AFR heads have thremactor ports (for smog equiped vehicles) on both the front and back of their heads and the threaded insert on the passenger side had worked it's way loose and was now completely missing, allowing straight exhaust from the head. I checked the drivers side head and the threaded instert was there, but worked it's way out and was very loose, just a matter of time before it too came all the way out. So I got another 5/8"-11 allen head plug and used red loctite to close that beeeach up for good! Did the same on drivers side and checked the front ports as well, they were fine. Started the engine and it is absolutely night and day difference and now sounding just like it should. Like others have stated, sounds like a sewing machine, but no loud ticking noise. I am thrilled it was simple and I didn't need to get into adjusting the valves again, but am surprised that AFR or CHP (the engine builder) didn't use some kind of loctite on those bolts in the first place. Live and learn. I hope this info helps another Stanger out in the future and thanks for everyone's input.:SNSign: