Not Good

revhead347 · Jun 12, 2010

blksn955.o said:
Regarding the rings its dependent on the bore finish. If the correct bore finish is used with the correct ring choice there is almost an instant seat. The big issue with the cast iron rings is they are very brittle under cyl. press. and the spike from n2o will make the moly rings better for longevity.

You're probably right. I trust my machinest, and I'm going with moly rings. I just have had some bad experiences.

Kurt

revhead347 · Jun 14, 2010

Another update on the engine. I talked to the Machinest today, and he was able to rehone the block within specs. He has found a 20/1000s over thrust bearing and he is pretty sure he can fix it without welding the crankshaft now. He is also going to drill an oil port into the galley to the thrust surface to get more oil to the thrust area, then custom cut the bearing for better lubrication. The cylinder heads are done, and flowbenched. I think he said they flowed 282cfm/197cfm at .500 lift. He is waiting on the rings and bearings to come in, and the engine should be done by the end of the week. A custom camshaft will be ground by Comp Cams. Probably going to have to wait another two weeks for the camshaft. Then I will be able to pick up the engine.

Kurt

nmcgrawj · Jun 14, 2010

You've probably said it on here somewhere before....

But what heads are you running? How much $ do you have wrapped up in them?

revhead347 · Jun 14, 2010

They are old Canfield 192cc heads with a 58cc combustion chamber ported and O-ringed. I originally paid $800 for the bare castings, and $450 for the hardware including taxes. The initial valve job, port work, and O-ring cost me $400. So the original price was $1650. That price sounds a little high, but keep in mind there is no nickel and dime hardware in there like you're going to get with most assembled head packages, it's all top notch quality stuff. Now the engine has 85,000 miles on it, so must of what I am paying now it just rebuild costs for normal wear and tear with the exception of about $130 in port work, because the orginal port work wasn't done so hot. I have gone through some flow bench data, and it looks like they flow a hair less than a mildly ported AFR 205, and a bit more than a ported AFR 185.

Kurt

nmcgrawj · Jun 14, 2010

good stuff man. Do you know much about the new canfield castings?

revhead347 · Jun 14, 2010

Only the specs on them. They have increased the valve angle on the new castings to make them more compatible with stock pistons. Canfield makes all the castings for most of the aftermarket cylinder head companies out there anyway. They are all about the same.

Kurt

revhead347 · Jun 14, 2010

You can look here to get comparitive flow data for almost all cylinder heads available. The only thing you are not going to get is how the valve angle effects valve shrowding. Generally a shallower valve angle gives you better flow into the cylinder, but requires better valve reliefs.

Stan Weiss' - Cylinder Head Flow Data at 28 Inches of Water

Kurt

GTA_V6_Mustang · Jun 14, 2010

revhead347 said:
Yeah, friggen amazing. Not only did it run, it ran well. You could never tell there was a serious bearing problem.

Kurt

looks like you avoided the ever popular "runs best before it breaks"

revhead347 · Jun 15, 2010

Yeah, I don't know how close it was to totally failing, but I can't imagine it could go that long with a bearing that far out of whack.

Kurt

revhead347 · Jun 22, 2010

Well, as usual, life's a bitch. After finishing up the rest of the engine, the crank shop called back, and said they can't fix the crankshaft. So that's going to cost some serious bones to replace. And of course, nobody makes a 50 oz imbalance 347 crankshaft anymore, so they are going to have to rebalance the flywheel, and I'm going to need a new harmonic balancer......again.

On the bright side, if anyone wants to make a reasonable offer, I have a Pioneer SFI balancer that I no longer need with less than 50 miles on it.

Kurt

nmcgrawj · Jun 22, 2010

Sorry to hear Kurt.

MysteryMachine · Jun 22, 2010

What oz is it? Probably a stupid question

nmcgrawj · Jun 22, 2010

50oz.

revhead347 · Jun 23, 2010

The balancer I need to get rid of is a stock 50 oz imbalance.

Kurt

revhead347 · Jul 9, 2010

Just another update, the machinest called me this morning and told me after he had finished the block, he bolted the main down, an found a crack in the block at one of the main bolts. He felt pretty bad about not finding that crack, and he gave me another block and the machine work for free. The block he gave me is from a dirt track car, that was .020 over. So it will be a perfect bore instead of an overhone job within clearances.

Kurt

Killercanary · Jul 9, 2010

The setbacks suck but it sounds like it is starting to come together. Kurt, what are you looking to get pout of the balancer? My stock unit is starting to wobble on the cobra and I know it'll need replaced soon. I was going to put another stocker on there but figured I'd check with you first. Thanks!

TenorPlayinGuy · Jul 9, 2010

Tough luck, I've got a similar issue in mine, bad vibration from it though. Shouldn't last too much longer I'd imagine. Hope you get yours back and tear up the streets before long.

revhead347 · Jul 9, 2010

Killercanary said:
The setbacks suck but it sounds like it is starting to come together. Kurt, what are you looking to get pout of the balancer? My stock unit is starting to wobble on the cobra and I know it'll need replaced soon. I was going to put another stocker on there but figured I'd check with you first. Thanks!

I'm not sure what I'm going to get for the balancer. I've actually gotten quite a few PMs about it. The problem is that the bottom water pump bolt put a very light mark around the edge of it. It's almost un noticable, but I want to put pictures up before I send it off to someone. The balancer has less than 50 miles on it, and I was about $180 new. I guess whoever offers me the most cash will get it. I have been asking $130 for it so far. I can't believe how many PMs I've gotten about it.

I just got off the phone with FRPP about the block. The machinest said that it was a Sportsman block, and I know Ford hasn't sold those in years. I was afraid it might have been one of those cheep blocks from Ford, that blew out the cylinders on it. But if it is a Sportsman block, that means it has slightly wider mains. Although Ford admittedly said that the block really isn't any better than a stock one.

Kurt

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

nmcgrawj

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

nmcgrawj

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

GTA_V6_Mustang

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

revhead347

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