I'm thinking about an o/r x, how hard is it to install myself, I looked under the car today when I changed the oil, doesnt look like rocket science. Also o2 sensors, do I have to do anything with them, and wont check engine light continuosly come on? Any help is appreciated.
o/r X-pipe help please...
- Thread starter gargol139
- Start date
The passenger side midpipe to manifold nuts are....fun to get to.
Be sure to hose all of the bolts down with insert penetrating fluid of choice here a few minutes before starting removal. It wouldn't hurt to get a spray a day or so in advance, to let them really soak.
With my Mac offroad X, I used the Mac gasket, and stock studs, and everything came out great. I've heard many mixed results, some being people having to get a better gasket, and replacing the manifold studs.
I don't think that applys to all mid-pipes, though. Just Mac.
You're going to need to get some MIL eliminators, which you have a few options on. You can either dish out for the nicer clip in ones, that go between the o2 connectors, get the splice-in ones (I have these, no problems so far), or try the do-it-yourself eliminators, that act just the same as the splice in ones, composed of parts you can pick up at Radio Shack. I think I got my splice-in ones for like $10.
Just remember. Be patient! I've seen so many half done jobs, where nuts were stripped completely, turning a mere Three Mile Island into a Chernobyl. Good luck!
Be sure to hose all of the bolts down with insert penetrating fluid of choice here a few minutes before starting removal. It wouldn't hurt to get a spray a day or so in advance, to let them really soak.
With my Mac offroad X, I used the Mac gasket, and stock studs, and everything came out great. I've heard many mixed results, some being people having to get a better gasket, and replacing the manifold studs.
I don't think that applys to all mid-pipes, though. Just Mac.
You're going to need to get some MIL eliminators, which you have a few options on. You can either dish out for the nicer clip in ones, that go between the o2 connectors, get the splice-in ones (I have these, no problems so far), or try the do-it-yourself eliminators, that act just the same as the splice in ones, composed of parts you can pick up at Radio Shack. I think I got my splice-in ones for like $10.
Just remember. Be patient! I've seen so many half done jobs, where nuts were stripped completely, turning a mere Three Mile Island into a Chernobyl. Good luck!
As said above, the right combination of extensions will get the job done. My advice is to work on the lower passenger side nut FIRST. It's hard.. but once you get that off, it's smoooooooth sailing the rest of the job. Very easy once that's off.
Be sure to disconnect the battery first.. the starter is right there by that lower nut, and I guarantee you will smack it at least once.
PB Blaster works awesome on those nuts as a penetrating lube.
I also use the splice in mil eliminators.. real cheap off ebay, and had no problems with them since.
Be sure to disconnect the battery first.. the starter is right there by that lower nut, and I guarantee you will smack it at least once.
PB Blaster works awesome on those nuts as a penetrating lube.
I also use the splice in mil eliminators.. real cheap off ebay, and had no problems with them since.
Yep...soak ALL the bolts with PB blaster the day before. Have a big ass socket wrench, and a foot and a half in extensions. Work on the passenger side header -to-H first. This side also needs a gasket in between the header and the H pipe. Have lots of patience and band-aids! lol...
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
be sure to disconnect Batt. Otherwise, you'll bet shock of life time when your trying to get to passenger side bolts
mity2 said:
lol i got shocked once i though i was billie bad a** and could get away with it but the socket slipped and i was
by the starter but yeah disconnect the battery and spray the header nuts before removal to make it easier, and one more thing get a 12 pack
and have alot of pacience 
15mm medium-depth socket, swivel, and a few extensions for the lower passenger side bolt. Definitely soak 'em, and definitely work on the passenger side bolt before you go any further. I stripped the crap outta mine & had to take it in to have it removed. Other than that, it's smooth sailing...
This is great advice from these guys. Have some bandaids ready once your socket slips a few times. Gloves are helpful for preventing this. Air tools are great for getting the bolts loose if rusted. I needed them for mine even after PB Blasting a day in advance. Oh yeah, you will hate reconnecting the front O2 sensors up by the tranny. Beer is your best friend to keep you sane during the project.
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