Suspension Odd body flex and suspension issue

Slo5Oh89 · Jul 17, 2021

I have 89 vert. Very early on I had MM full length subframe connectors installed by a guy and the car was on a lift. Many years later front end is low to where tires rub also suspect Ford Racing springs need replaced. When trying to replace control arms its a STRUGGLE to get things lined up. When car is jacked up can't close passenger door if it's opened. Just tired of fighting this car and suspension oddities. Hard to get sway bar hooked up just nothing is easy suspension wise. When backing up I get tire rub, I get front tire rub because front end sits low.

Really takes fun away with that scrapping tire noises.

Would removing mm sub frame connectors be good idea let it sit as wanted?

Thank you

General karthief · Jul 17, 2021

Sub frame connectors, when install correctly, will not effect ride height.
If you can't open/close a door when jacked up and there are SFC already you have some serious problems, you need to inspect the frame rail/floor and sub frame connectors for damage or rust.

KRUISR · Jul 17, 2021

A couple questions.

Replacing front or rear control arms?
When car jacked up (on jack stands) and door doesn't close right, where is it supported? Under k-member or front sub-frame, under rear subframe or under axle?
When on the ground is height from top of wheel flare to ground the same side to side?

Slo5Oh89 · Jul 18, 2021

General karthief said:
Sub frame connectors, when install correctly, will not effect ride height.
If you can't open/close a door when jacked up and there are SFC already you have some serious problems, you need to inspect the frame rail/floor and sub frame connectors for damage or rust.

I am not sure what damage to look for and there is no rust anywhere.

Slo5Oh89 · Jul 18, 2021

Slo5Oh89 said:
I am not sure what damage to look for and there is no rust anywhere. And what would I be able to do about that.

Slo5Oh89 · Jul 18, 2021

KRUISR said:
IA couple questions.

Replacg front or rear control arms?
When car jacked up (on jack stands) and door doesn't close right, where is it supported? Under k-member or front sub-frame, under rear subframe or under axle?
When on the ground is height from top of wheel flare to ground the same side to side?

I have tired alot of various not sure what one I'd best. Rear control arms are a giant ordeal as you have to pull the axel to get the bolt holes to line up. Front seem to sit even and honestly rides great I know something is funky with these front springs as far as ride height issue.

Also thank you!

KRUISR · Jul 18, 2021

When I changed my rear control arms, I raised the vehicle and supported it under front k-member (jack stand between control arm mounts - factory k-member) and under my subframe connectors where they are welded to rear torque box. I then put a floor jack under the rear pumpkin, disconnected the shocks (I don't have my quad shocks on anymore), and worked on one arm at a time. Rear springs will almost fall out at full droop (especially if they are lowering springs already). If needed use a spring compressor and you will be all set.

Are you looking to replace your rear control arms or you have already done it?

From my questions above, the reason I asked about where you put the jack stands is if you position the front ones under the subframe just behind the k-member that could explain your issue closing the passenger door. When you do that the weight of the engine will flex the front portion of the chassis down. Now you are a convertible and have no upper chassis support through passenger compartment, this fact will exaggerate the effect, essentially bending your apart in the middle. If you don't already I would recommend ALWAYS support your car under the k-member (unless changing k-member - and then get some extra stands and support under front subframe and under side rails between strut tower and core support).

Slo5Oh89 · Jul 18, 2021

KRUISR said:
When I changed my rear control arms, I raised the vehicle and supported it under front k-member (jack stand between control arm mounts - factory k-member) and under my subframe connectors where they are welded to rear torque box. I then put a floor jack under the rear pumpkin, disconnected the shocks (I don't have my quad shocks on anymore), and worked on one arm at a time. Rear springs will almost fall out at full droop (especially if they are lowering springs already). If needed use a spring compressor and you will be all set.

Are you looking to replace your rear control arms or you have already done it?

From my questions above, the reason I asked about where you put the jack stands is if you position the front ones under the subframe just behind the k-member that could explain your issue closing the passenger door. When you do that the weight of the engine will flex the front portion of the chassis down. Now you are a convertible and have no upper chassis support through passenger compartment, this fact will exaggerate the effect, essentially bending your apart in the middle. If you don't already I would recommend ALWAYS support your car under the k-member (unless changing k-member - and then get some extra stands and support under front subframe and under side rails between strut tower and core support).

Slo5Oh89 · Jul 18, 2021

Thank you! I plan to switch this winter to MM coil over with adjustable ride height and that should resolve that issue on the front, or may go with stock vert springs

I also will use this guidance and get it jacked up nicely and
HOPEFULLY I can do some rear end work without having to almost put a ratchet strap to pull the axel to the bolt hole.

All of this is funny too because the ride overall is smooth!!

Suspension Odd body flex and suspension issue

Slo5Oh89

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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Suspension Odd body flex and suspension issue

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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