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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Oh Crap~!!!!!!!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guero
  • Start date Start date May 8, 2006
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Guero

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Oct 11, 2005
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#21
  • May 9, 2006
  • #21
ok thanks
 

Guero

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Oct 11, 2005
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May 9, 2006
#22
  • May 9, 2006
  • #22
ok did just the first 2 on the driver side. my battery might die if i do all. and no spark, i got a new plug i had, connected to the wire and touched it to the negaitve on the battery, and to a car ground no spark
 

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
Mar 30, 2005
1,940
3
36
North Carolina
May 9, 2006
#23
  • May 9, 2006
  • #23
Okay. I guess you KNOW you don't have spark now.


If you can check for injector pulsing (as JT mentioned) you will pretty much narrow it down to the PIP .... which I seem to recall you replacing a while back, lol (A.K.A. Hall Effect Sensor).


If you can determine whether or not you have injector pulsing, you can start to check the coil. And TFI, etc.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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May 9, 2006
#24
  • May 9, 2006
  • #24
Nice tech from Justin.

If you dont have a noid light, you can pull a plug and look for fuel on it.

I kinda think it will be an ignition issue alone (gut plus Justin's recollection about your PIP being newer). Look for constant key-on 12 volts at the coil + terminal, and a pulsing ground on the negative side of the coil. If you have those, toss a spare coil on and see what gives. If you dont have 12 volts and ground, we'll have to go through schematics. IIRC there is a fusible link for the hot side of the coil (if you're missing juice there).

Something you should do if you havent is to check each fuse in the underhood-fuse box. Make sure you didnt blow an ignition fuse.

I'm too tired to think of much else. Good luck bud.

BTW, we know you're a smart guy - you rip into many parts of the car and get them put back together faster than most folks.
 
M

mackey

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Jan 25, 2003
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May 9, 2006
#25
  • May 9, 2006
  • #25
What did the noise sound like. Sounds like you might have a broken Cam/Distributor gear if it isn't the TFI.
 

Guero

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Oct 11, 2005
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#26
  • May 9, 2006
  • #26
the cam is not turning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! we took out the dizzy cap, and the rotor wasn't moving. so we took out the dizzy and cranked it and it didn't move! what the **** does that mean?????
 
M

mackey

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Jan 25, 2003
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May 9, 2006
#27
  • May 9, 2006
  • #27
Broken timing chain, sheared off the pin. Probably shouldn't have floored it when you had internal problems with the motor making noises.
 
M

mackey

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Jan 25, 2003
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May 9, 2006
#28
  • May 9, 2006
  • #28
Did your car make a loud bang when it shutoff or anything like that. Like a metal hitting metal noise. With what I have learned, if the car isn't running right and something is wrong. Don't drive it.
 

Guero

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#29
  • May 9, 2006
  • #29
mackey said:
sheared off the pin
Click to expand...
whats that
 

Guero

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Oct 11, 2005
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May 9, 2006
#30
  • May 9, 2006
  • #30
mackey said:
Did your car make a loud bang when it shutoff or anything like that. Like a metal hitting metal noise. With what I have learned, if the car isn't running right and something is wrong. Don't drive it.
Click to expand...
not really i didn't hear anything out of place.
 
M

mackey

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Jan 25, 2003
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May 9, 2006
#31
  • May 9, 2006
  • #31
Well then you probably just ruined your cam or timing gear. HOPEFULLY a piston did not hit a valve or anything. Wouldn't want to screw up those TWs. Time to start taking it apart. Did you have the cam lined up right? Did you use a new timing gear? Did you put the right pin in the cam and make sure there wasn't much play?
 

Guero

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Oct 11, 2005
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#32
  • May 9, 2006
  • #32
**** that, im just taking it to my mechanic i aint dealing with these bs again
 

Guero

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#33
  • May 9, 2006
  • #33
can a valve hit a piston without overrevving?
 
M

mackey

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Jan 25, 2003
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Beverly, Massachusetts
May 9, 2006
#34
  • May 9, 2006
  • #34
Well if a valve is stuck open because the cam is not moving and The crank is still pushing the pistons up and down. Yes it is very possible and probable.
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
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Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2006
#35
  • May 9, 2006
  • #35
I seriously don't know how you could shear that pin

Does that cam come with a pin or not? If not, you should have transfer the stock one onto the TFS and the pin should have been incredibly tight. I needed the machinist to transfer it for me becuase it was pressed to tightly. So all I could think of, is either the pin wasn't in far enough and worked it's way out or it wasn't put in the new cam at all

BUT, if the cam seized and the motor kept going, I say there's 100% chance there are at least 4 bent or broken valves.
 
L

Leezure

New Member
May 10, 2005
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#36
  • May 9, 2006
  • #36
OUCH! I too enjoy tuning in to another episode of "Guero's World" but I don't think I like where this storyline is going.

Take it apart assess the damage and consider having a professional degree the cam and set everything back up for you. I have done it all with a bit of success but the chance of me missing something and causing more damage than I can pay for is worth the extra dollars I spend on the comfort of knowing it was done right.
 

Swarzkopf

Member
Sep 23, 2004
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May 9, 2006
#37
  • May 9, 2006
  • #37
****, this completely sucks. Good luck Guero.
 
W

wytstang

Mustang Master
Mar 14, 2004
4,988
4
78
Summerville,SC missing South Fl. weather :(
May 9, 2006
#38
  • May 9, 2006
  • #38
Good luck mang....
 
M

mackey

Active Member
Jan 25, 2003
1,284
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Beverly, Massachusetts
May 9, 2006
#39
  • May 9, 2006
  • #39
Where are you from?
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
May 9, 2006
#40
  • May 9, 2006
  • #40
I find that hard to believe

I gotta think you got a broken oil pump shaft

OR .............

Maybe it has fallen down to the bottom of the pan

Are you sure you could not see the cam gear turning when you cranked over the motor

Grady
 
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