OH YES, Its alive!! First drive with 3000 Stall!!!

I never quite understood what a stall convertor actually does

whered you get it and what else do you need to go with it

So basically it gets off the line like a 5.0 should? Dammit, why did I click on this thread. lol I'd pretty much decided I can live without a stall but posts like this don't help. Willyls1 and rsw really had me pumped up. Maybe this spring/summer when the bug hits me again. Enjoy

Kdubslugga is right.

A stall converter is slang. All converters are torque converters, and depending on thier design of the impeller and turbine as well as their size they have different speeds in which the max out. Liquid cannot be compressed, therefor when it hits maximum capasity it basically locks up, this point is called the stall speed. It's called a torque converter for a reason. It turns mechanical rotational energy into hydrolic energy. Kenetic into potential.

The side effect of a higher speed torque converter is that it is looser and slips more, so fuel economy may suffer. Another side effect is HEAT. Due to he transfer, there is a lot of friciton, making a lot of heat. A good tranny cooler is a absolute MUST HAVE with a higher stall torque converter.

How does a higher stall torque converter affect normal driving? If you are at a stop light, and you go to take off normally, does the engine need to rev up to 3000rpm to move the car?

....the converter does start to couple and turn the drive shaft before it's rated stall........it's just not a solid lock like when it reaches the stall speed......in essance......it's like slipping the clutch........

what he said about the higher stall creating heat and slipping is very true as well. say for example you have an old 3 speed automatic....if your cruise was 2500 and the stall didnt toally lock till 3000, yeah you had a problem and either had to have a balls to wall tranny cooler set up....but even then ......it wasn't the best deal for a street car if it had a higher stall......

however........enter the lock up converter......which newer vehicles have. a lock up converter manually locks the converter together in 3rd and od.......prevents any slipping........so.....on an aod, your only really using that slipping stall in 1st and 2nd gear......with a decent tranny cooler, and being you cruise in 3rd or od where it's locked up..........problem solved......if you use a lock up converter.....you can buy non lock ups for them but, for a car thats driven on the street, the lock ups the way to go......

i've seen a couple articles that says adding the right stall can feel like adding 50 hp.......apparently it must seem that way......

****enA..I have a TCI 3000 sitting on my floor and drag suspension waiting. Vids!

So basically you can't move until you hit 3000 rpms?

No no guys, in normal driving you shouldn't even be able to notice that you have a different converter, but it is POSSIBLE to stall it all the way to 3k rpms. (Brake stand untill the wheels start turning would be a much higher rpm than stock)

here read this article and look at the cut away pics........it can explain it better than i can......

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter2.htm

something i noticed when i put my higher torque converter in
is in D the car is fine totaly perfect how i wnat it
but in OD the car is off. it doesnt kick down and around 55-60 mph it shifts down and up by gass pedal pressure to no pressure its weird. but ive learned to live with it.
not sure if it the torque converter or the shift kit. anybody got any ideas about this>?

ok heres a way to think of it

take a 3 foot string with a ball on the end, swing the rope in a circle (rotation of converter) once you have it it spinning it takes little force to keep it spinning. this is the stock converter, its big so it takes less force (rpms) to keep spinning and lock together with the tranny.

now take a 1 foot string with a ball, swing it around, you find it takes much more force to keep it spinning. this is the higher stall converter, its smaller so the engine will have to work harder to spin it up and lock with the tranny.

So a smaller converter means more stall speed, there also much more that goes into it but the string thing is a basic thing to go by...

Liquid cannot be compressed

Click to expand...

technically everything can be compressed haha j/p, i actually just learned it in Minerology today so i had to say it, just takes enough pressure and heat.

sweet to hear about the stall though :SNSign:

Videos man,we need some videos!

Kdubslugga said:

All i know is i gained 5 tenths when i did Gears, and the SOTP with Stall is waaaay better! The launch, OMG its wonderful, feels like i have a real muscle car now, cant wait for nice weather. I do have a small question. Im doing the Trans Cooler tomorrow, which plug on the radiator cooler is the return line??

Click to expand...

Congrats bro, you are going to jump out of your skin when you get to the track, watch those times plummet. Experiment with your launch technique. You can try footbraking the car to your stall and then launch or you can flash the converter. Just take the revs up to 1500 or so and then mash the gas at the last yellow. The trans will jump to the stall and then leave. You may find this hits the tires a bit harder and get you some slightly better 60' times.
2 ways of thinking on the cooler. You can go thru the rad if you drive the car in cooler weather alot. It will help get the fluid up to temp quicker. If it's a summer only car, you may want to run the cooler by itself(not thru rad) to avoid adding engine heat to the fluid. I've run my by itself for years and never had a problem but it is a summer only car. I believe the lower line is the return, just like rad hoses.

I have the same converter in my 466 fox, 3000 TCI street fighter. Its a nice converter isn't it? I've had no problems with mine, i added a flexlite cooler that i run seperate from the radiator, it stood up to the 500+ ft-lbs of torque all summer long, and works great.

It starts moving the car when you let off the brake and starts catching and moving whe the revs hit ~2000 rpms, flashes to 3000 rpms. And flash stalling my car is just crazy.

This should be one of the first things you do to an automatic car.