I would like to learn to change my oil. I figured if I can change my harmonic balancer than I should be able to change my oil. I am looking for a good, detailed write up on it. I tried doing a search here, but that really did not help me out too much. So can anyone point me in the right direction for a write up? Thanks for any info you can provide!
Oil Change
- Thread starter law
- Start date
Hey, I don't change my own oil. Its just not cost effective. Jack the car up, make a mess, drive the old oil to dispose, the time....Hell No! Take it to my buddy's shop $25 out the door in 10 minutes.
Yea, its not hard, but i dont do it myself usually. Jack up the car, drain from teh plug, then from the finter. Let it drip for a while, then before you put the filter back on, put some new oil on teh filter gasket. Tighten it 1.5 turn past once it get tight. the replace the plug and refill.
Slide a drain pan under the oil pan, remove the drain bolt in the front of the pan, let drain until it stops dripping. Move the drain pan back a bit and repeat for the rear drain bolt. Inspect the little plastic gaskets on the drain bolts- if they are cracked or broke, replace them(They're less than $1).
Please reinstall the drain plugs tighly, you won't like what happens if you don't.
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Remove the filter, and be sure that the rubber gasket comes off along with it.
Fill the new filter with oil, and also dip your finger in oil and run it along the rubber gasket on the new filter.
Double check that the old gasket is removed and not stuck on. Again, you will not like what happens igf you double gasket the filter.
Re-install filter.
Remove the oil fill cap on the drivers side valve cover, and dump in what's left of the bottle you used to fill the filter, plus be sure to add 4 more quarts of oil. Replace cap.
Start the engine and let it run 5-10 min. Check for leaks. Shut it off then pull the dipstick, wipe it off, re-insert it, then pull it back out to check the oil level. If it is still a little low, add a 1/4 bottle and re-check. Do this until it is full. (You should not need to add more than half a bottle to top it up.)
As a final note. Please to not use a Fram or Penzoil filter. Be kind to you're engine and buy a Motorcraft, Wix, or Purolator filter.
I prefer Castrol GTX, but any quality name oil will do. The factory reccomends 5W30, but if you have a lot of miles on youre motor, try using 10W30.
Please reinstall the drain plugs tighly, you won't like what happens if you don't.
\
Remove the filter, and be sure that the rubber gasket comes off along with it.
Fill the new filter with oil, and also dip your finger in oil and run it along the rubber gasket on the new filter.
Double check that the old gasket is removed and not stuck on. Again, you will not like what happens igf you double gasket the filter.
Re-install filter.
Remove the oil fill cap on the drivers side valve cover, and dump in what's left of the bottle you used to fill the filter, plus be sure to add 4 more quarts of oil. Replace cap.
Start the engine and let it run 5-10 min. Check for leaks. Shut it off then pull the dipstick, wipe it off, re-insert it, then pull it back out to check the oil level. If it is still a little low, add a 1/4 bottle and re-check. Do this until it is full. (You should not need to add more than half a bottle to top it up.)
As a final note. Please to not use a Fram or Penzoil filter. Be kind to you're engine and buy a Motorcraft, Wix, or Purolator filter.
I prefer Castrol GTX, but any quality name oil will do. The factory reccomends 5W30, but if you have a lot of miles on youre motor, try using 10W30.
Chapter one of the repair manual should cover it pretty good.
Good luck.
EDIT: 95 GT posted while I did. He pretty well covered it for you.
I would use a box end wrench on the rear bolt if you dont want your ratchet wrench and socket full of oil.
Good luck.
Good luck.
EDIT: 95 GT posted while I did. He pretty well covered it for you.
I would use a box end wrench on the rear bolt if you dont want your ratchet wrench and socket full of oil.
Good luck.
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
Drive to jiffy lube, or your favorite shop, pull car onto lift until mechanic says stop, pop the hood and watch. Its not worth the time or effort anymore. I buy the oil and filter I want (mobile one from wal mart is $23 for 5 quarts) And I bought a case of purolator filters; take them down to jiffy lube. They do all the labor for $15 so I get a synthetic oil change for under $50.
drakesdad
Member
Joe, if i am correct I think I've seen a picture of your garage.....that's why you don't change your own oil........LOL..........don't you have the rubber to drive up on.......VibrantRedGT said:
94gts
Member
I use 10w30 mobile one synthetic. I change it at the garage i work at. Noone besides me will ever touch my car.
Im only gonna have my rearend done since it will already be at the place getting a chip burned. And i dont have the tools to do it anyway
Im only gonna have my rearend done since it will already be at the place getting a chip burned. And i dont have the tools to do it anyway
Swarzkopf
Member
**** having someone else do it...
You can determine alot about the condition of your engine based on what your oil looks like. For example, if your oil stinks like gasoline, you may want to check your A/F as you could be running rich. If your oil smells like anti-freeze, you may have some gasket issues...ect. ect. You can figure out alot more with a pan full of oil then you can with a drop on a dipstick.
Futhermore, it gives you a reason to get under the car and visually inspect everything.
This is cost effective? My synthetic oil change runs me $20...and I have the piece of mind of knowing that my filter is installed corrected and my bolts are as tight as they should be.
More than once someone has driven away from an oil change place only to get down the block and see they have no oil pressure.
I prefer to avoid letting someone else work on my car at all costs.
You can determine alot about the condition of your engine based on what your oil looks like. For example, if your oil stinks like gasoline, you may want to check your A/F as you could be running rich. If your oil smells like anti-freeze, you may have some gasket issues...ect. ect. You can figure out alot more with a pan full of oil then you can with a drop on a dipstick.
Futhermore, it gives you a reason to get under the car and visually inspect everything.
This is cost effective? My synthetic oil change runs me $20...and I have the piece of mind of knowing that my filter is installed corrected and my bolts are as tight as they should be.
More than once someone has driven away from an oil change place only to get down the block and see they have no oil pressure.
I prefer to avoid letting someone else work on my car at all costs.
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
Swarzkopf said:
I will call
on the $20 synthetic oil change.. Wholesale pricing on synthetic oil is $1.29 a quart, and to the public its at least $3.20 so lets just say you get it for 3.20 thats $16 right there, then get the filter your over $20 right there. I would like to know where you get your oil from if you get it that cheap. I'm not trying to be a D**k but that is cccchhhhhhheeeeeaaaaappppp....
drakesdad
Member
For me it's not the $, and I used to take my vehicles to Valvoline until in 2000 I took a brand new Ranger with 2850 miles on it and ended up with a scratch from the inside of the fender across the outside from where they have that PUMP on the end of the hose....I did not notice until I washed the truck the next day and went through the roof.....They denied it, it was the first and only time the hood had been raised since I bought the truck.........
That did it for me..............No one will take care of your car the way you would and you can't watch them under your car at the drive through.......
Too each his own.....I just had a bad experience......
That did it for me..............No one will take care of your car the way you would and you can't watch them under your car at the drive through.......
Too each his own.....I just had a bad experience......
Swarzkopf
Member
5 quarts of Castrol Syntec 10w30 at $3.49 each (Advance Auto special)- $17.50
1 Purolater Oil filter at Advance Auto- $2.99
Okay, I was over by $.50.
1 Purolater Oil filter at Advance Auto- $2.99
Okay, I was over by $.50.
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
Well close enough, I use mobile one and it tends to be more expensive. I use regular castrol in my DD, I dont like the synthetic castrol though; I used to use it in my car and I have noticed I used more oil between oil changes than with the mobile one, like 1 quart less.
Heres a Question for all of you, do you have to pay for your oil disposal? Here in cali they charge between $2.50 to $5 dollars for them to take your old oil. Correct me if i'm wrong but dont they get payed for the old oil??
Heres a Question for all of you, do you have to pay for your oil disposal? Here in cali they charge between $2.50 to $5 dollars for them to take your old oil. Correct me if i'm wrong but dont they get payed for the old oil??
drakesdad
Member
In Ohio you can take it to several parts stores, shops, along with anti-freeze...Sometimes you may get the "we're full" but if you go to the store where you buy most of your parts and accessories the know you by sight and don't have a problem....
I'd rather do the change myself anyday, it's faster, and cheaper. Here's some pointers.
1. Bring the car up to operating temp before you do the change - the oil will drain much quicker and more thoroughly
2. Don't overtighten the filter, it's usually just hand tight plus half-turn
3. pre-flush devarnishing additives are your friend.
4. When you drain the sump, use a plastic container - don't be afraid to drop the sump bolt into the oil to avoid getting covered in the stuff - just use a magnet on the outside of the bucket to pull it to the surface again.
5. After the car is oilled up again and happy, pour the remanants of the good oil into a clean smaller container, and then fill the old container with the oil you drained.
Our local Waste/Refuse center has a free oil disposal service, we take about 3 gal/month there.
1. Bring the car up to operating temp before you do the change - the oil will drain much quicker and more thoroughly
2. Don't overtighten the filter, it's usually just hand tight plus half-turn
3. pre-flush devarnishing additives are your friend.
4. When you drain the sump, use a plastic container - don't be afraid to drop the sump bolt into the oil to avoid getting covered in the stuff - just use a magnet on the outside of the bucket to pull it to the surface again.
5. After the car is oilled up again and happy, pour the remanants of the good oil into a clean smaller container, and then fill the old container with the oil you drained.
Our local Waste/Refuse center has a free oil disposal service, we take about 3 gal/month there.
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