Oil leak (lower intake).

Take out the end seals and run a thick bead of RTV in place of the end seals...

It doesn't change the angle, it only tightens up the clearance on the front and rear of the intake to the block, I just use a standard head gasket and a bead of rtv, just let the rtv set up a little while before you put the intake back on. Good luck, I had the same prob.

I use a bead of RTV only for the best results. The end gaskets are a hassle. If that is what you have there now, then you did it without enough RTV and need to re-do it.

Or you used a crappy silicone...

Yep.

Go to Advance and get a can of "The Right Stuff" and run a thick bead across the end rails and in all 4 corners. Follow the directions on the can.
Make sure you use 4 studs in the corners of the lower so it sits square and doesn't shift.
I just did this about a week ago and I have zero problems.

another trick is to center punch the area you apply rtv to, the theory is it keeps the rtv in place. All of the DSS and CHP blocks ive seen have it so its worth trying i suppose right?

I use the Ford 7.3L assy RTV on everything I do...rearends, engines, etc...probably the best stuff you can find...and it comes in a caulking gun cartridge...how cool is that?

Just use RTV on the fwd and aft side.

BYRDPE said:

Go to Advance and get a can of "The Right Stuff" and run a thick bead across the end rails and in all 4 corners. Follow the directions on the can.
Make sure you use 4 studs in the corners of the lower so it sits square and doesn't shift.
I just did this about a week ago and I have zero problems.

Click to expand...

I have heard "The Right Stuff" is the stuff to go for

I will be doing that on my next intake swap.

INmemoryJBC8102 said:

Thats what is there now and it leaks pretty good. Everyone time I run the car threw a few gears it blows oil out threw there and drips down on the exhaust.

Click to expand...

This sounds more like a crankcase pressure problem...

Start by swapping out the seals, because you know they are bad...
Also, replace the pcv and screen while the lower intake is out.

But, if the problem comes back, then you need to look a little deeper.

good luck,
jason

5spd GT said:

I have heard "The Right Stuff" is the stuff to go for

I will be doing that on my next intake swap.

Click to expand...

Trust me...it is.
This is the first time I have removed and installed a lower intake and it went together without a hitch.

Yep, the screen is under the pcv valve and the grommet.

Ooh, I forgot the screen...it just lifts out, I cleaned out the last one I did with a little carb cleaner...you may also need a new grommet, Ford still sells them...

Here's some tips for fixing the intake manifold leaks...

Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.

The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.

Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out.

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

Get a tube of anti-seize and coat all the bolt threads and under the bolt heads. That will help insure even torque when you tighten the manifold bolts. Plan on re-torquing them a after a weeks worth of driving

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.

Consumable items:
Upper manifold gasket
Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)

INmemoryJBC8102 said:

where is the screen? Under the pcv? What could it be if the problem comes back? It doesn't spray out of the seal or anything. It just leaks there a bit. But it seems to leak and drip on the exhaust only when I run the **** outta the car. I haven't drove it since this problem started cuz I didn't want to break anything.

Click to expand...

If it comes back after changing the pcv/screen, then run a compression test/leakdown test.
There may be poor ring seal, or a valve adjustment issue.