Oil Pan Bolts

DomMc · May 11, 2016

This idiot friend of mine (ok, it was me...) has misplaced the sandwich bag with all the bolts for the oil pan on my 1974 mustang ii 2.8 V6.
I know there are 24 of them... and I'm quite sure they are size M10.
But I don't know the length.

Anyone know if this information would be available anywhere?

LILCBRA · May 12, 2016

I can't answer specifically, but industry standard says that thread engagement should be 1-1/2 times the thread diameter. So a 10mm bolt should have 15mm thread engagement. You can give yourself another 5mm for the pan and pan gasket and probably be alright with 20mm bolts. Of course you should always double check your measurement just to be certain!

DomMc · May 12, 2016

Thanks!
Am sure there is a bit of play in terms of the bolts that can be used.
I couldn't find the details in my maintenance manual or online so far.
Probably most people are more careful with their hardware than me.........

Thanks for the info. Will maybe try to get a back of both sizes from Fastenal and see how I get on.

DomMc · Jun 20, 2016

Oil pan back on. Engine put together and got dropped in to the car on Saturday.
It now turns over but won't fire....

Checked spark and it's good. Compression I assume is ok, unless I managed to mess up all 6 pistons somehow!
Can see that fuel is getting to the carb, but the plugs are dry in the cylinder.

Any ideas why fuel wouldn't make it through the carb? Does it just need an overhaul, or am I perhaps missing something simple?

jozsefsz · Jun 20, 2016

Check to make sure you see fuel squirting into the carb when you pull the throttle, you should see two nice, clear streams into each venturi. If not the accelerator pump diaphragm, or the rubber check-valve inside the bowl, may have gone bad -- or the nozzles are clogged. In my case it was both. If that's happening, you can pour some fuel down the carb and see if you can get it to fire. Once it's running, vacuum will pull fuel fuel from the idle circuit, but you need that priming squirt from the accelerator pump to get it started.

Rebuild kits can be had for cheap, and it's pretty easy to do (good YouTube videos out there). Failures like this sometimes happen after the carb is allowed to dry out, that's the last straw for some of the submerged-in-fuel rubber and paper parts.

DomMc · Jun 21, 2016

Thanks for the tips!
I tried basically bypassing the carb last night. Squirting some starter fluid in to see if it would catch at all.
Nothing.

I'm thinking I've the timing set wrong.
Don't suppose you'd have a diagram or link to how the distributor should be set at TDC?
There is a mark on the rim that I'm using, which I assumed was correct - but I could be way off.

Gonna pick up a pressure tool to check the compression too but I honestly think that is ok.

jozsefsz · Jun 22, 2016

When the #1 piston is at TDC (on the balancer) on the compression stroke (after intake valve opens or check for air forcefully blowing out of the spark plug hole while manually cranking the engine) the rotor should be pointing roughly at the #1 plug wire. You can also have someone crank the car and check timing with a light to get it perfect, it works while cranking too and verifies you have spark.

DomMc · Jun 27, 2016

Ok, so I had the timing all wrong for starters. There was a huge mark on the pulley that I thought was TDC but was way off. I then found the marks with the degrees on it.
Distributor was off too.

It still won't fire, but I'm getting closer.
Used a compression tester yesterday and two of the cylinders have zero compression.
The other 4 are around 140/150 which I assume is good.

My thinking is that one of the valves isn't closing for those two cylinders, so gonna pull the cover off this evening check what's going on. (A friend thinks I may have the bolts too tight which would make sense)

jozsefsz · Jun 27, 2016

That split in the balancer fooled me once too. Over-adjusted valves can definitely be the case. Ranger Station has some good info on setting the valves, 14 thou clearance for intake, 16 thou for exhaust.

DomMc · Jun 28, 2016

It was the valves! - and last night it fired up!!!!
Am so happy. Was great to hear her come back to life.

Had to change the ignition coil too.
Could see spark when I grounded the spark plug, but I picked up and $8 spark tester from auto zone and it wouldn't light up.
Swapped the coil and tester worked.

One step closer to being back on the road..

jozsefsz · Jun 28, 2016

Congratulations! The Cologne v6 sure sounds sweet doesn't it?

DomMc · Jun 29, 2016

It was music to my ears - believe me!!!!
Sounds so much better than I expected though.

jozsefsz · Jun 29, 2016

Definitely one of the coolest little motors out there, doesn't get nearly enough credit. Sure it was underpowered, but only a few horses shy of the v8 at the time and considerably lighter. And with a 4-bbl carb on there it will rev to the moon. Solid lifters, gear-driven cam made it so. The sequential firing order and neighboring exhaust ports made it sound like a nice, lumpy-cammed v8. I love mine, and with the home-made turbo it's a blast to drive too. Make sure to add some zinc to the oil at some point, your cam will thank you.

LILCBRA · Jul 12, 2016

Congrats on getting it going!! I know I'm a bit late, but it's good to hear you got it all sorted out!!

DomMc · Jul 13, 2016

Thanks. It's far from finished yet.
Am battling water leaks around the timing cover.
Fixed one side, now the other is leaking.... but where would the fun be if this all went without issues, right?

jozsefsz · Jul 14, 2016

Are you leaking near the thermostat or the other side? You can still get the rear thermostat housing if you find the threads are too corroded / stripped to tighten it down properly. 4-seasons part number 84878. New bolts are good too, M6-70 and M6-90's.

DomMc · Jul 20, 2016

The thermostat had some rusty bolts but doesnt seem to be leaking.
Originally it was the other side that was leaking, now it's just above the thermostat.

Hope to pull the timing cover tomorrow and fit it more neatly.

Another question... this is?

Am guessing oil pressure switch but could be way off...
Any help for what it is, and where is should go, much appreciated!!!!

LILCBRA · Jul 21, 2016

I'm 99% certain that is the oil pressure sensor. As for where it's located on the V6, I can't say. On the 302 it was near the timing cover on the driver side if memory serves.

DomMc · Jul 21, 2016

Thanks. My manual doesn't even mention the part! Let alone where it should go. !

Oil Pan Bolts

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