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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Oil Pan Gasket Change - Prime Oil Pump?

  • Thread starter Thread starter GT_Rich
  • Start date Start date Feb 26, 2008

GT_Rich

Member
Dec 11, 2005
172
0
17
North Canton, OH
Feb 26, 2008
#1
  • Feb 26, 2008
  • #1
I'll be attempting this with the engine still in the car. All I'm doing is dropping the pan far enough to snake in a new gasket. In my searches on this board, I found a couple posts where jichker has copy and pasted his how-to, and he states its necessary to prime the oil pump after this job. I don't get it?! How is this any different than an oil change as far as the pump is concerned?

On a side note, my car went from dripping a drop of oil every night (which I didnt care about, and thought was the rear main), to leaving a 1 ft diameter puddle on my garage floor after changing the oil the day before. It hasn't been driven since October, but started 3 or 4 times to move it around the garage. I got under there and looked and the side of the gasket (pass side) is completely blown out! Amazing.
 

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman
Dec 26, 2006
0
10
49
Thomasville, ga
Feb 26, 2008
#2
  • Feb 26, 2008
  • #2
ive swapped pans and didnt re prime the pump. the only reason for repriming is when the pump is removed and ALL oil is gone from the motor. i guess it depends on how long you have the pan off. most oil changes dont last long and the oil probably never has a chance to completly drain out of the motor. well thats my theory on it anyways.
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
1,203
3
36
Taxachusetts
Feb 26, 2008
#3
  • Feb 26, 2008
  • #3
I have only heard of priming the pump after installing a new one. If you are just dropping the pan then it's really no more than just an oil change really. I have done pan gaskets on other motors and never primed the pump. make sure if you use a new filter to fill it with oil so you don't have a dry start. you could always bump the starter a few times before firing it to move some oil around but I'm sure you will be fine.
 

GT_Rich

Member
Dec 11, 2005
172
0
17
North Canton, OH
Feb 26, 2008
#4
  • Feb 26, 2008
  • #4
Thank you for the replies fellas.
 
I

irish

New Member
Oct 18, 2006
168
0
0
Florida
Feb 26, 2008
#5
  • Feb 26, 2008
  • #5
Use a one piece gasket and some silicone in the corners and you wont have leaks anymore.

Matt
 

GT_Rich

Member
Dec 11, 2005
172
0
17
North Canton, OH
Mar 2, 2008
#6
  • Mar 2, 2008
  • #6
FYI - I was successful in swapping gaskets with the engine still in the car. Here's some tips that will hopefully help someone else:
1. Summit part number FEL-OS34508R is definetly the one to buy. It's a one-piece gasket, with a steel core, and it comes with 4 plastic guides that hold the gasket, pan, and reinforcement in place. Those clips are like having two extra pairs of hands under there.
2. As far as what to remove/unhook and what not to, I unbolted by H-pipe, tranny mount, motor mounts, intake tube, removed fan (but left radiator and shroud in place), and I had to pull my distributor cap because it was going to hit my strut tower brace.
3. I jacked the motor up enough to put small 2x4's between the motor mount halves.
4. I did not prime the oil pump, but did bump the starter a few times prior to starting. When I did start it, oil pressure jumped up just as fast (if not faster) than when I do an oil change.
5. I did not remove the oil pump or take the pan out from under the engine.

Hopefully that helps someone.
 
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