Oil Pans.

none67

New Member

Oct 19, 2003

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Sep 3, 2004

#1

• Sep 3, 2004

• #1

Hey,
Well i just got back from a road trip so i got to do a lot of thinking about my car. i was thinking about buying an oil pan for the 289 soon, seeing that i might build my engine up while i find a good welder for the body/frame, and i was woundering if a "race" pan would work on the street? i'm looking for an 8 or 9qt pan and i keep coming up with "race" pans. i don't want to risk anything due to the exteme important nature of the oil pan. maybe one of you out there would know.

oh, and also, if i build my engine now, how long will it be still good just sitting there on the stand? (and what measures should i take to keep it "good"?)

thanks.

 

LMan

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Aug 10, 2002

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Sep 3, 2004

#2

• Sep 3, 2004

• #2

it will work, but what are your plans for the car? If you are street-driving, then all you are doing is making your oil changes more expensive.

IF you lube the engine properly, you can bag it and leave it for a week or two, IME. Personally, I would avoid leaving it like this like the AIDS virus, however. I never start an engine build unless I know I can finish it in a week...unless a catastrophic parts-shortage occurs

 

none67

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Oct 19, 2003

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Sep 3, 2004

#3

• Sep 3, 2004

• #3

yes, it will be a street drivin car. but my driving is a little more.. uhh.. "spirited"(for a lack of a better word) than most others on the road. and there will be the random trip the strip for an offical time slip.

i heard about a product that you put into you intake and it will make everything fresh for over a year. any news on this stuff? i heard its called "frost" or somthing like that. people use it for their snow mobiles for summer storage and such.

 

LMan

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#4

• Sep 3, 2004

• #4

I understand what you mean, look for a 7 qt pan with baffling around the pickup. 8 or 9 qt pan is overkill. I know folks that simply baffle their 5 qt pan and do fine. Truthfully, for occasion 1/4 mile blasts at the track, your stock pan will work ok...

Ive never heard of that product, but then we dont use snowmobiles too often here in Alabama

 

B

bull999999

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Jun 26, 2004

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Sep 3, 2004

#5

• Sep 3, 2004

• #5

Adding an oil cooler is another way to add more oil without having to swap pans.

 

none67

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#6

• Sep 3, 2004

• #6

well, i don't go to the drag strip often, but that does not mean she isn't raced. i also really love thoughs twisty roads, and i found a nice place on the road that i might cheak out later next summer(as my parents would not appreciate me haveing fun in my dads new truck with them in it). so i would very like somthing with a trap door. 7qts sounds good, just as long as i have enough. i may need to run a better oil pump, for some reason my high pref. engine rebuild kit came with an OEM oil pump. ironic.

never thought of an oil cooler, i may just look into that. this might just inspire me to buy a new rad aswell.. these restortions really do start to add up if you decide not to go with the stock route.

ahh.. the life of a high schooler that makes 6.85 an hour.

 

blascrw

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Aug 19, 2004

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Opelika, AL

Sep 3, 2004

#7

• Sep 3, 2004

• #7

Hey lman

Hey lman where in AL are you?

 

LMan

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#8

• Sep 3, 2004

• #8

none67 said:

i may need to run a better oil pump, for some reason my high pref. engine rebuild kit came with an OEM oil pump. ironic.

Click to expand...

the OEM pump is almost always the way to go. most everyone who gets a hi-vol pump doesnt need it. I wouldnt spend the $$$ on another pump.

 

LMan

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#9

• Sep 3, 2004

• #9

blascrw said:

Hey lman where in AL are you?

Click to expand...

Huntsville.

 

ratio411

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Apr 21, 2002

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Sep 4, 2004

#10

• Sep 4, 2004

• #10

I ran the Moroso deep sump with no issue.
I went to the track rarely, but I revved the SBF to the moon so it may have been good to have more oil in the pan.
The front of the car was fairly low and the pan very deep, but I never had a clearance issue.
It looked mean coming down the road with the deep pan visible.
I do agree with the comment about oil changes costing more. I can't tell you that it is worth it for you, but I think that if you rev an engine high, it helps keep you in oil.
Good luck
Dave

 

none67

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Sep 4, 2004

#11

• Sep 4, 2004

• #11

oh yea, i forgot that detail. the 289 is suppose to rev to 8-9k. makes most of its power in the 7k range though. or so i'm figuring.

would the OEM pump still work in thuoghs rpm ranges? I'm not worryed about the oil change cost at all.

 

ratio411

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Apr 21, 2002

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Sep 4, 2004

#12

• Sep 4, 2004

• #12

Use a stock pump if you like, there is not a huge difference.
Just make sure you get a very good pump!
Also, use an aftermarket pump driveshaft... that is very important too. The stock one will twizzle up like a licorice stick if you wind it up too high.
Dave

 

none67

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Oct 19, 2003

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#13

• Sep 4, 2004

• #13

well the pump i got seems to be very solid, and is all new. it weighs a bit too. thanks for the suggestion about the driveshaft, i was planing to use the stock one, i guess not now.

just one more dumb question, if i get a 7qt pan does that mean it takes 7qts of oil? is that just the entire volume that the pan can hold? and if thats how much oil it holds is that when the engine is hot(oil in the engine) or cold(oil all in the pan)?

 

LMan

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#14

• Sep 4, 2004

• #14

none67 said:

oh yea, i forgot that detail. the 289 is suppose to rev to 8-9k. makes most of its power in the 7k range though. or so i'm figuring.

would the OEM pump still work in thuoghs rpm ranges? I'm not worryed about the oil change cost at all.

Click to expand...

You wont be revving that high. At least not more than once.

You are looking at about a 6.5-7k redline, and it will be done by about 6. Maybe 6.5, depending.

 

ratio411

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Apr 21, 2002

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Sep 4, 2004

#15

• Sep 4, 2004

• #15

7 quarts is a general rating for the pan.
Figure another quart for the filter.
Usually pans are compatible with your stock dipstick.
So full on the stick is full with any pan you put on.
This only changes with pan mounted sticks. If the stick is in the block or timing cover, the relation with a full pan is the same with any pan with the same sump placement. Width and depth will not affect.

I used a Moroso 9 qt and it took almost 11 qts per change.
Filter included...
Dave

Btw: Don't use that stock drive!

 

none67

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Oct 19, 2003

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Sep 4, 2004

#16

• Sep 4, 2004

• #16

LMan said:

You wont be revving that high. At least not more than once.

You are looking at about a 6.5-7k redline, and it will be done by about 6. Maybe 6.5, depending.

Click to expand...

oh its far from stock. infact theres nothing stock going on it. and its being built to take it. which is why i need a good oil pan.

thanks ratio, 11qts is a LOT of oil. not that i mind, but thats funny needing so much oil for an oil change.. any thoughts on what grade i should run?

 

6

65fast

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May 16, 2004

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Mt. Airy

Sep 4, 2004

#17

• Sep 4, 2004

• #17

LMan said:

You wont be revving that high. At least not more than once.

You are looking at about a 6.5-7k redline, and it will be done by about 6. Maybe 6.5, depending.

Click to expand...

I agree. I would love to see that motor rev to 9 grand . I dont think I would want a street motor making its power so high in the rpm range anyway being a turd below 4 grand, leaving you running a hellacious rear gear ratio to keep the motor in the powerband.