Oil Pressure Gauge Install ?'ss

Just do what I did and use the ash tray light. You can splice into it I guess .... but I just cut mine (leaving the light unhooked) because I never use it. I have a billet switch panel that's gonna cover that up anyway.

Where are you mounting the gauges?

Mine were clock pod gauges, so I didn't have to run the wires as far. You can still do it .... just get some more wire.


I think some of the others on here (with A-pillar gauges) use the headlight dimmer switch. I believe it's the brown wire at the switch. Someone else will probably come along & confirm (I hope).

Crap! You're right. Use that for the "bulb" in the gauge. Sorry man, my bad.


Reflecting ..... I now remember I used a wire from the old clock harness for my main power wire (since it was right there & no longer being used). It's the grey wire w/ purple stripe.

But since you're over on the A-pillar .... and probably wanting to retain the clock .... I'd try to find one over there somewhere. If I were you, I'd use the fuse box to get a 12V wire. Then tap the illumination one into the headlight dimmer switch.

You guys got it. In my pillar, I used the dimmer wire in the headlight switch (I know you connected it already, but double check it. There are a couple wires that go hot with parking lights, but only one that dims - it's in a corner of the plug IIRC).

I ran 12 volts from the fuse box too. If you have small hands you can finagle some other source behind the dash, or use a wire in the ignition column if you like (it's further away).

Good luck.

dstanggt50 said:

Sorry, this may be a dumb question, but when you say get your 12v from the fuse box, should I just use a test light to see if it gets power with the key on and use like a fuse tap or something? I'm not 100% sure how you guys are hooking it into the fuse box.

Thanks,

Click to expand...

Exactly right. I have some fuse taps that are thin pieces of metal. You just put them in with the fuse .... and there is a square end that sticks out that you can use for a crimp terminal.

Justin's got you covered. My taps are a little different. I have some that piggyback a leg of the fuse. Then there's a tab that sticks out; you attach a female spade terminal to the leg. I dont like 'em but they're cheap.

There are more expensive dedicated assemblies that have a piggbacked fuse on top of a fuse for the fusebox, or that have a leg of wire coming off the fuse. I imagine you might get something at Schucks (cant remember other parts stores up there), and you'll just pick from what they have available. WHen you decide what circuit you want to use, remove the fuse. Then test both slots with your test light - you want your wire to attach to the side that's dead with the key-on. This will provide fuse protection for your gauge. I also install a 1 amp inline blade fuse to further protect the gauge, as well as keep the donor circuit operable if your gauge wiring shorts (it will blow the one amp fuse, rather than the fuse in the fuse box). This is handy for the dimmer tapping too.

An alternative is to splice into the same wire that you would as outlined above, but you do it at the back of the fusebox (aesthetically cleaner). Rather than using a fuse tap, you're splicing into the wire directly.

Courtesy of TMoss (author) and S&2B's (site host) is this fusebox diagram in case it helps. I choose circuits like fuse 17 because if the fuse blew, it's not real critical to the operation of an important system.

Good luck.