Oil Pressure Gauge
- Thread starter Guero
- Start date
illwood
Member
Is this the factory oil pressure gauge?
'Cause you can't go by that. It's effectively just a dummy light with a needle attached to it.
'Cause you can't go by that. It's effectively just a dummy light with a needle attached to it.
Yea, the factory one is just a dummy light. But a real press gauge would do what you are describing.
illwood
Member
There's a thread I saw recently about keeping the factory needle working while running an aftermarket gauge. You basically put a T fitting into the block and then hook the two sending units up to it.Guero said:
Search Ernan's threads. He had the write up and posted part numbers and I later went back and transcribed the part numbers in pipe sizes in case people go to Lowes to get brass from the plumbing section.
Guero, you want to keep both gauges independant of eachother. If you dont care about the stock gauge, it is a really easy install.
And keep me informed about Tucson - we should meet up.
Guero, you want to keep both gauges independant of eachother. If you dont care about the stock gauge, it is a really easy install.
And keep me informed about Tucson - we should meet up.
get your new gauge. The sender fitting will likely be 1/8" NPT thread and the stocker is 1/4" NPT. The new gauge might have an adapter - if it doesnt go to the parts store or home store and get a 1/4" Male NPT x 1/8" female NPT adapter.Guero said:
Unscrew the stock sender and install the adapter (use sealant on the threads). Then screw in the electrical sender or the compression fitting (for a mech gauge). Very very simple.
If you get a mech gauge, I would use copper or braided line. I doubt the nylon line would hold up for you Guero.
Good luck.
OrangeMustangGt
Founding Member
yeah, i agree with hissin, BUT i say stay with the electrical gauge, i mean who wants potentially 300deg oil spraying on your legs?...never can be too safe with that. Also, you should keep your stock gauge working, it will look stupid having a non-working gauge in your cluster, imo.....ALso you will find its quite tight in there assuming you have a/c still, i reccomend that you can get some say 5/16 brake line and extend it out with some bends, and fittings so you can gain access.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
you better double check your oil manamgment. that might be an indication of a problem that is related to the knocbing sound you were talking about in your other thread.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
i don't know exactly what to tell you to look for, all i know is that a lack of oil can cause the lifters to not expand, which can cause a clacking noise similar to what you were talking about in your other thread.
i'm just worried that they might be related ...
i'm just worried that they might be related ...
illwood
Member
Actually I doesn't really. The factory sending unit is really an oil pressure switch. More than 5 psi is "on" and less than 5 psi is "off."Low-5.0 said:Mine works like a normal oil pressure guage
I don't know how accurate it is tho.
In order to get the needle to move to somewhere in the middle of the range, there is a resistor on the back of the gauge cluster.
So we end up having the false belief that we have an oil pressure gauge in our cars when it's really a dummy light with a needle on it.
illwood said:
Stock engine - The needle stayed in the middle of the guage and rarely moved. It would fluctuate every now and then.
New engine - The needle is far to the right of the guage. Also, when priming the engine for it's first start, the needle went up slowly like it was reading actual pressure.
I did install a new sending unit with the new engine... It's supposed to be a factory replacement from Advance Auto.
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