There's a thread I saw recently about keeping the factory needle working while running an aftermarket gauge. You basically put a T fitting into the block and then hook the two sending units up to it.Guero said:what would i need to buy, i know a gauge but do i tap into the oil or what???? hey hissin im heading over to tucson next weekend.
get your new gauge. The sender fitting will likely be 1/8" NPT thread and the stocker is 1/4" NPT. The new gauge might have an adapter - if it doesnt go to the parts store or home store and get a 1/4" Male NPT x 1/8" female NPT adapter.Guero said:kool, i dont care bout the stock one. how would i go from there?
what do i look for???? btw, so the tock oil pressure has no function whatsoever? it just gos up as soon as it starts.BlackVert said:you better double check your oil manamgment. that might be an indication of a problem that is related to the knocbing sound you were talking about in your other thread.
Guero said:what do i look for???? btw, so the tock oil pressure has no function whatsoever? it just gos up as soon as it starts.
Actually I doesn't really. The factory sending unit is really an oil pressure switch. More than 5 psi is "on" and less than 5 psi is "off."Low-5.0 said:Mine works like a normal oil pressure guage
I don't know how accurate it is tho.
illwood said:Actually I doesn't really. The factory sending unit is really an oil pressure switch. More than 5 psi is "on" and less than 5 psi is "off."
In order to get the needle to move to somewhere in the middle of the range, there is a resistor on the back of the gauge cluster.
So we end up having the false belief that we have an oil pressure gauge in our cars when it's really a dummy light with a needle on it.
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