I suggest you at least pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual....before attempting this a second time.
A stock rod cap has a correct orientation the numbers on the same side. With the crank set properly lubed and torque down to spec it should turn freely by hand. At the minimum use plasti gauge to check the clearance at this point no lubrication should be on the bearings for the crank to get an accurate measurement the plasti gage has to be a very top of the crank.
After all clearances have been checked lubricate the bearing surfaces and install the crank. Lightly torque all the main caps in place tap the crank back and forth to help seat the caps properly. Then move on 2 setting the thrust buy prying the crank forward and torquing all the caps in the proper sequence to spec.
I suggest a set of rod bolt protectors or tubing over the bolts as you install the pistons to prevent accidental contact with the crank and easy beginner mistake.
Make sure you check your ring gaps and install properly as well. Make sure you install the head gaskets in the correct orentation they usually say rear or front
I suggest having the galley plugs removed along with the freeze plugs and cam bearings and have new pieces installed by local machine shop... Including tanking the block to remove all the Foriegn material that is now in the passages. Also have them chase the head bolt holes. The upper head bolts only need Moly or oil the lower head bolts need to be sealed with liquid Teflon or Permatex RTV.
To the OP, IMO and please do not get offended, you may want to consider this. If you don't have the tools, knowledge or desire to assemble an engine properly, the results will continue to be the same. It is not difficult, but there are a hundred or so different steps that need to be followed. You can't simply slap an engine together in the dark with a drop light and expect it to not fail. Rule #1 is everything needs to be hospital room clean. Rule #2 is you need to check and recheck every clearance and tolerance- sometimes many times and it's not just bearings. It's ring gap, PTV, rocker arm to valve tip,valve spring height, cam thrust plate, timing chain, oil pump pickup- you get the picture. Screw up in any one of these and you may be tearing apart the motor again.
If you want to learn how to build a decent motor, I strongly suggest spending a little money and either buy one of the How To build a for Engine books or videos, or join Woody's SBF site where you will gain from his years of experience and tricks. He builds some of the best motors around. You will also need to buy, rent, or borrow a number of tools such as torque wrenches, micrometers, dial indicators, ring filer, block cleaning brushes, tap and die set to chase all the threads, a piston stop, a ring compressor tool, a harmonic balancer tool, a set of fuel line tools, along with the basics like a timing light, a vacuum gauge. It's late so I know I am leaving off things but again you get the idea.
I'm all for building and repairing your car as that is the only way to learn, but be honest with yourself. If you are not going to do it right, either buy a JY explorer motor for a few hundred bucks or an assembled short block from someone like LMR.
Thanks for the words of endearment. But Mikestang I don't appreciate deliberately being talked to in a condescending way. Obviously I have a hsrmonic balancer puller fuel line tool tq wrench ect ect. Yeah I just pulled my motor apart with my fingers lol. But I did check ring gap and installed rings in there correct orientation per book. I just don't know how the hell my caps got mixed up. Cause I swear I put them back on in the order they came off cause I laid them on abox in there correct order. And yes I know the numbers on the caps have to go together. When you match tang go tang on the rod and rod cap it should be correct. Guess thats how the rod caps for mixed up cause I thought they was in order. Again I appreciate your suggestions