Oil Pump Questions...............

My Melling was $31.95, so just figure about that.

make sure the install the oil pump shaft with the right end facing up. BTW I hope your planning on pulling to motor to do this.

ford motor sports high volume oil pump is around 50 dollars in the US

One tip is to get a Motorsport pump shaft along with the new pump. Melling pumps are the standard just about everywhere and are generally $30 or less. Also, unless you have loose oil clearances or a beat to hell engine, you dont need a high volume pump. It just increases drag and the risk of breaking the shaft(even a motorsport). Its possible you'd have pan clearance problems as well.

Been there, done that - You can do it in the car, but it is hard to do. The best way is to pull the engine.

Disconnect the battery at the battery ground terminal, remove the fan and fan shroud. Both motor mounts will need to have the large nuts that secure them to the frame removed. The trans mount will also have to be loosened, and it is a good idea to remove the drive shaft.

I also had to disconnect the cat pipes at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. Be prepared to have to drop the steering rack and disconnect the steering shaft. Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan and watch for things that bind or hoses/electrical wiring that may need to be disconnected. I put a couple of wood blocks between the headers and the frame to support the engine. You will likely need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get the required clearance.

Scrape the pan mating surfaces clean as possible - old gasket stuck to the surfaces are a source of leaks.

My personal choice was a high volume/heavy duty pump, and a replacement HD pump shaft. FMS makes one, and ARP does too. When you install the pump, the funny looking washer thingy goes on the part of the shaft that fits into the hex socket in the distributor shaft. It keeps the shaft in place when you remove the distributor, which you will have to do to prime the pump. Forget to put it on, and the pump shaft can come loose and fall down in the bottom of the oil pan.

There is a one piece oil pan gasket which will help re-assembly if you can find it. If you can't get this gasket, use weather strip adhesive to secure the cork gasket to the pan rails and the rubber strips to the bearing caps. Read the instructions on the adhesive carefully to make sure the gaskets are permanently stuck in place and won't move when you slide the pan in place. Use lots of blue silicone sealer on top of the front and rear rubber seals where they mate with the pan.

Fill with oil, replace the filter. Reconnect the battery, switch the ignition on to enable the gages, but DON'T crank the car. Remove the distributor and use a 1/4" hex socket to turn the pump counter clock wise (same direction as distributor rotation) until you see oil pressure (an external gage is a great help long about now). And keep turning for about 30 sec after you see the pressure come up. A reversible drill is the best tool to use to turn the 1/4" socket. The pressure should come up to about 50-80psi with cold oil. Once you see good pressure, check for obvious leaks, and then and only then, lower everything back into place and bolt down the mounts and anything else you had to take loose.

Re-install the distributor and set the timing with the engine running using timing light (don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT plug and reconnect it when finished) 12-14 degrees BDC is good. Start up and check for leaks, let it warm up and look again for leaks. It took me 2 days plus, but I am old and slow, maybe your granny is faster.

Duro5341 said:

Well guys..........I pulled the motor today
so she sitting on an engine stand.....

Is it possible to prime the oil pump before I put it in the motor?
That way I don't have to take apart the distributer? and reset the timing

My boss (mechanic) told me to submerge it in oil, and turn it with a drill, to get oil flowing through it. Thus priming it?

Thanks for all your comments so far

Duro

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The bench priming might be sufficient since the rest of the oil passages in the block aren't going to be dry right now.
However, you can just mark where the dist is right now with a pen so that you can put it back in after priming the oil system. Make a mark on the outer edge of the housing that will indicate where the rotor is pointing, then make a mark common to the block (near the hold down clamp) to indicate how the dist is oriented in the block. If both the marks are lined up when you put the dist back in then, your golden. It would only take a few minutes and you would know that the entire oil system was primed.

Good Luck
jason

Prime it once it's in car and ready to fire. You're gonna have the motor upside down on the stand to change the pump, so the entire system is gonna need to be primed before start up.

Uh - if you're changing the oil pump and putting a new pan gasket on, keeping things simple would mean turning the engine over. You'd be silly not to. Why would you go to the trouble of actually pulling the engine and putting it on a stand, and then NOT invert it? You mean you're actually crawling under the stand to change the pump and gasket? I think that would be a first....

What benefit do you think comes from doing it that way?

Michael Yount said:

Uh - if you're changing the oil pump and putting a new pan gasket on, keeping things simple would mean turning the engine over. You'd be silly not to. Why would you go to the trouble of actually pulling the engine and putting it on a stand, and then NOT invert it? You mean you're actually crawling under the stand to change the pump and gasket? I think that would be a first....

What benefit do you think comes from doing it that way?

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i've heard alot of staying with the stock aluminum pump or get a new one but aluminum!
strech a little the spring thats all

Duro5341 said:

well guys
change of plans................Being I have the motor, and half the interior out
I am just gunna gut it competely............. and send the shell to the body shop, for a complete restoration, and build the motor all winter

And put the complete package together in the spring
How hard is it to go from a 5.0L EFI..........to a 351W carbed
I will run all autometer guages, so guaging is not a problem
And will a freshly rebuild T-5, be able to handle a 351 with a mild cam, High compression pistions, and a mild P&P

Thanks guys
Duro

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Wish I could decide to gut my car. I am jealous
I would keep the efi and still do the 351w conversion. It is not hard at all. All of the parts are readily available either from Ford or the aftermarket. Search through old threads and you will find all the answers that you could want, and then some.
I have over 200,000 miles on the stock t5 with the last 7,000 miles being with the 408w in the sig. It can hold up if you treat in right. I am having problems with the u-joints now though.
Good Luck with the project