Oil System parts list help

[Yellow302]

I want to replace the whole oil system in my car since i had some antifreee/water due to my blown head gaskets.

If anyone could give me a quick run down of what i need to get this done.

oil pump
oil pickup
oil pressure sending unit (optional but doing anyway)
oil pump drive shaft
oil pan gasket
oil pan bolts (optional but rather get new ones)

Am i missing anythin?

 

[95trippleblack]

If I was doing all that I would do the bearings at the same time. But I would just change the oil drive it 20 miles then change it again. That should take care if it. If the water hurt anything it would be the bearings not the pump

 

[Stanger007]

If I was doing all that I would do the bearings at the same time. But I would just change the oil drive it 20 miles then change it again. That should take care if it. If the water hurt anything it would be the bearings not the pump

+1.

Oil filter to the list?

Wes

 

[Yellow302]

what bearings?

i see some for 30 bucks, cheap enough for me to do it

 

[blksn955.o]

Bearings = main and rod bearings

Water will push out or mix with the oil in these areas...VERY important that the oil that goes to these parts is good, clean, non-diluted oil otherwise wear happens VERY quickly. Water will not hold up to the force being pushed on (remember the bearings ride on a super thin wall of oil) by the engine. This causes the wear, I would also think heat would add to this as oil hold up to heat just a little better .

If anything I would run some brake cleaner/parts cleaner threw the oil pickup and buy new pump.

I would either run some oil threw the motor (ie dump it down the heads and have it drain threw the system clearing out) or drain it before you drop the pan and have it non-running and put a qt of K1 in the motor with 4-5qts of dino oil and run it for 3-5min. Then drain and replace the bearings. The K1 helps clear out and clean up gunk and water in the system.

 

[Yellow302]

ive already ran some engine cleaner and changed the oil a few times and all of the water is out or has evaporated

The bearings are cheap, i just dont know how to change them out and im guessing i should keep the stock size

 

[95trippleblack]

How much water did you drain out of the oil and how long did you drive it like that? Are you planning to pull the motor to do the job? Pulling the pan and doing a pump, rod and main bearings can be done with it installed but its a big job without a rack

 

[Yellow302]

it wasnt pure water only a little when it first drained, most of the coolent was leaking out of the back of the heads not into the oil system.

 

[95trippleblack]

Just leave it if everything seems to be working fine.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

Just leave it if everything seems to be working fine.

+1

If you change out your bearings, you need to plastigauge or mic all of the journals to make sure there's no unknown issues with the new bearings. You never know, but QC could've let a bad bearing slide out the door unknown to the manufacturer.

 

[Rick 91GT]

If your not having any issues I second leaving it alone... I hate swappping bearings onto an old crank, atleast a polish is recommended to get a nice new surface for the bearing to seat against. To propeerly to do the bearins you need to pull the motor and put it on the stand....

If you have a stock shortblock and oil pan these are the parts I'd recoomend..

Clevite 77 Rod bearings 634P
Clevite 77 Main bearings 590P
Melling oil Pump M68
Ford Racing Oil Pump shaft M-6605-B302
Fel-Pro Oil Pan Gasket 1 pc OS34508R
ARP Oil Pump/Pickup bolt kit 150-6902

Clean your stock pick-up as long as the screen is in good shape no reason not to reuse it.

Clean your stock bolts, the ARP bolts are not long enough to use the stock rail supports which I recommend you keep on the stock oil pan.

 

[Yellow302]

ive got to leave the engine in the car, so ima have to leave the bearings the way they are for now, worst case senario i get a explorer long block from the junk yard so find a fox body short block cheap.