Would that 2 wire kit replace the wiring harness from the fuse box in the engine compartment?
I think my Alternator harness is vulcanized, when the car heats up, the Amps drop quite a bit.
Replaced Alternator and removed underdrive pulleys, and the Amps still drop after the car heats up.
Any ideas?
It's actually the little wires in the regulator harness that vulcanize (when I peeled the wire sheath off - it didn't actually peel but flew off in hard chunks), the insulation on my wires was gone
). I used what I thought was a 3 wire plug from LRS and spliced it in.
The charge cables just like to fall apart. They get weak at the terminal and start to fray.
A quick test for you to do: On a cold engine start it up and wait for the idle to stabilize. Put your DMM across the battery. Note the voltage. Now move to the alternator's charge lug and put your meter lead on it, and touch the ground lead to either a real clean ground (or better) the negative battery terminal. See if there's a notable difference in voltage. As an E.g., my OEM charge cable was dropping 400 mA. That's on the edge of acceptable but not to us! The new cable drops about 2 mA (average due to meter fluctuation of around 5 mA up and down). Much better.
For your situation, I'd want to see what your idle is like. If it falls much below 650 RPM, alt output takes a dump. If you can goose the gas pedal a little bit (bring RPM's up to around 7-800 RPM) and the alt output gets much better, you can either raise the idle or consider overdriving your alternator. If you do the latter, try to ensure you will not spin the alt over it's critical speed (for most 3G's, that figure is 15000 RPM).
As for the regulator plugs and wiring, I think you guys will be hard-pressed to find anything that is 'full length'. That's certainly not to say that you can't make your own full-length harness.
Good luck.
