Ok.... I think I've convinced myself.

ufnavy06 · Feb 19, 2008

The Whipple it is. 500 hp of course. So now what? I wish I had a recent dyno of what my car is running rwhp/torque wise. I'd imagine I'm close to 300 rwhp and 320 rwtorque. So that in my estimation would put me around 500ish for both after the Whipple install. What else do I need to do before I put the Whipple on? I'm looking at the Roush lower trailing arms (wheel hop) and the clutch they offer on their site.

http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=659
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=933

I'm running the optional 18 x 8.5 rims with 255/35/18 Nitto 555s all around. Do I need a wider tire? I just got the Nittos.

Are there better LCAs and clutches for less (price vs quality)? Like the Steedas?

http://www.steeda.com/products/billet_rear_trailing_arms.php
http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_high_performance_clutches.php

So like I mentioned earlier, what else would I want to do to make the transition as smooth as possible, i.e. no hiccups?

And would I have to get a new CAI with the Whipple?

chad9350 · Feb 19, 2008

dont get cheap now....

After the whipple and install, around 6K+, why would you want to save a 100 or 200$ here and there on traction; or any other part for that matter?

Do you want to be another one of these guys with a supercharger and no traction?

Im sure you dont.

Do some research, no just internet ads disguised as proof.... go to the track, or where guys with similar cars hang out, and get all the info you can before making a purchase.

Wasting money is getting a part you Dont need, or not getting the part that best fits your combo.

Take your time, it dosent cost a penny!

Good luck.

anthony05gt · Feb 19, 2008

A Whipple HO kit with the supplied 10psi pulley and full exhaust including longtube headers will net you around 470rwhp and the torque will be a bit lower.(Dynojet SAE corrected) I suggest a Centerforce DFX clutch package and Metco UCA and LCA's. If you have the cash upgrade that tranny input shaft to a 26 spline set up especially if you plan on drag radials.

ufnavy06 · Feb 19, 2008

anthony05gt said:
A Whipple HO kit with the supplied 10psi pulley and full exhaust including longtube headers will net you around 470rwhp and the torque will be a bit lower.(Dynojet SAE corrected) I suggest a Centerforce DFX clutch package and Metco UCA and LCA's. If you have the cash upgrade that tranny input shaft to a 26 spline set up especially if you plan on drag radials.

Don't foresee DR anytime soon. It'd be the occasional track car so I don't think I'd like to spend the money on something that may rot before I fully use them.

And 470 I think is a good number to rest on.

Any particular reason you suggested the Metco UCA and LCA and Centerforce DFX clutch?

ufnavy06 · Feb 19, 2008

chad9350 said:
After the whipple and install, around 6K+, why would you want to save a 100 or 200$ here and there on traction; or any other part for that matter?

Do you want to be another one of these guys with a supercharger and no traction?

Im sure you dont.

Do some research, no just internet ads disguised as proof.... go to the track, or where guys with similar cars hang out, and get all the info you can before making a purchase.

Wasting money is getting a part you Dont need, or not getting the part that best fits your combo.

Take your time, it dosent cost a penny!

Good luck.

Good advice, but I'm just looking for the best value for my money. Just because I buy the most expensive thing as we all know doesn't mean it's the best fit. I don't want to buy something that's not going to do what I intend to do. I just want to get all my ducks in a row before I commit myself to the S/C. So ideally, I'd have the LCA, UCA and the re-enforced clutch on the car before I even purchase the S/C. I just want the best parts for the kind of power I'm looking to be putting to the wheels. If they're a bit more expensive, I'll suck it up to make sure I don't hurt myself, someone else, or the car.

Mr_Q · Feb 19, 2008

I'd consider 3.55 or lower too for gears. That is if you truly want to get the most traction from all that power.

3.73s and higher with 450+hp is just a monster to control off the line. Most guys don't, spin and waste.

anthony05gt · Feb 20, 2008

ufnavy06 said:
Don't foresee DR anytime soon. It'd be the occasional track car so I don't think I'd like to spend the money on something that may rot before I fully use them.

And 470 I think is a good number to rest on.

Any particular reason you suggested the Metco UCA and LCA and Centerforce DFX clutch?

I have a buddy that we've installed BMR LCA's and UCA. They keep breaking bushings. We installed the Metco stuff and it's just great...no more problems. It's more expensive, but worth it IMO. I have the Centerforce DF clutch and it's been fine with street tires. I'd suggest that clutch with street tires, but a DFX set up with drag radials. With a Whipple at 10 psi a DF clutch is at it's limit. If I speed shift into 3rd gear without letting off the gas and hit 3rd solid with good traction I'll sometimes here the cltch slip just a tiny bit. It's probably keeping my input shaft from twisting, so it may be a good thing. When I say the Df is at it's limit at 10 psi I don't mean it will break, I mean it may slip a bit in extreme conditions, but man is that thing a great mannered clutch. Feels stock, but holds up very well.

ufnavy06 · Feb 21, 2008

Awesome... That's the kind of stuff I want to hear when I'm contemplating this. Testimonials and word of mouth, or post, are the best way to figure it all out without tossing money into the fire.

Ok.... I think I've convinced myself.

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