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Ok Ran the CBT and got some codes too?

  • Thread starter Thread starter MY 85 GT
  • Start date Start date Oct 19, 2010

MY 85 GT

10 Year Member
Mar 7, 2008
1,852
208
104
New Jersey
Oct 19, 2010
#1
  • Oct 19, 2010
  • #1
Ok still having this problem popping in the intake not all the time but does it...ok checked fuel pressure...32 vac on 41 vac off...
codes i got where 34-and now 42

Cylinder balance test was 9 flashes so no injector problem...


I really need some advice here car runs great sometimes and then sometimes it idles rough at a light take off pop..pop in the intake...what can this be??????
 

jrichker

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Oct 19, 2010
#2
  • Oct 19, 2010
  • #2
The code 9 on the cylinder balance is good - everything passed.

Code 34 Or 334 - EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat or vacuum control problems. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the flange side of the EGR by mouth. If it leaks, there is carbon stuck on the pintle valve seat, replace the EGR valve ($85-$95).

If the blow by test passes, and you have replaced the sensor, then you have electrical ground problems. Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on the EGR and the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1.5 ohm. Next check the resistance between the black/white wire and the negative battery post. It should be less than 1.5 ohm.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.

Let’s put on our Inspector Gadget propeller head beanies and think about how this works:
The EGR sensor is a variable resistor with ground on one leg and Vref (5 volts) on the other. Its’ resistance ranges from 4000 to 5500 Ohms measured between Vref & ground, depending on the sensor. The center connection of the variable resistor is the slider that moves in response to the amount of vacuum applied. The slider has some minimum value of resistance greater than 100 ohms so that the computer always sees a voltage present at its’ input. If the value was 0 ohms, there would be no voltage output. Then the computer would not be able to distinguish between a properly functioning sensor and one that had a broken wire or bad connection. The EGR I have in hand reads 700 Ohms between the slider (EPV) and ground (SIG RTN) at rest with no vacuum applied. The EGR valve or sensor may cause the voltage to be above closed limits due to the manufacturing tolerances that cause the EGR sensor to rest at a higher position than it should.

The following sensors are connected to the white 10 pin connector (salt & pepper engine harness connectors)


Vacuum control problems:
If someone has misrouted the EGR vacuum plumbing or the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator) has failed, you can get this code.
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.

connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve or see the EGR test jig drawing below. Connnect the test jig or to directly to manifold vacuum.

Do not connect the EGR test jig to the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator).


apply 5in vacuum to the valve. Using the test jig, use your finger to vary the vacuum

if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.

if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.

if engine stumbled, connect EGR test jig to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve.
Use your finger to cap the open port on the vacuum tee.
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?
if not the EVR has failed

EGR test jig


This will affect idle quality by diluting the intake air charge


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for94-95 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif


Code 42 & 92 (engine running) System rich - Fuel control or (memory) System was rich for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control. Look for leaking injectors, fuel pressure too high, cylinder(s) not firing due to bad ignition.
Code 42 is the RH side sensor,
Code 92 is the LH side sensor.

Testing the O2 sensors
Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.

There is a fuse link for the O2 sensor heater power. According to Ranchero50, it is in the wiring near the passenger side hood hinge. Measuring the voltages will give a clue if it has shorted to the O2 sensor signal lead. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,248
17,929
224
Massachusetts
Oct 19, 2010
#3
  • Oct 19, 2010
  • #3
A quick way to check the o2 sensors is to swap them around and see if the code changes. Of that o2 is bad, the 42 will now become a 92


Rockauto.com sells ford o2 for cheap. I paid $37 each a few months back
 

MY 85 GT

10 Year Member
Mar 7, 2008
1,852
208
104
New Jersey
Oct 20, 2010
#4
  • Oct 20, 2010
  • #4
Thanks for all this info..again i have no emissions stuff hooked up its all disconnected...EGR valve doesnt even have a Vac hose to it...so if that is stuck in a postion im guessing this could cause a problem?..But in the morning the car never does this problem...Sometimes it will but if it was a constant thing wrong i would think it would do it ALL the time no??...This is really bothering me bad!!!!
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,248
17,929
224
Massachusetts
Oct 20, 2010
#5
  • Oct 20, 2010
  • #5
Clean the egr and see if it seats properly.

A bad o2 can cause this too as they are ignored during initial warm up. Might be why the car runs fine when cold
 

MY 85 GT

10 Year Member
Mar 7, 2008
1,852
208
104
New Jersey
Oct 20, 2010
#6
  • Oct 20, 2010
  • #6
Ok i can clean the EGR thats no problem..maybe i will buy two new o2's and change them out and see if that helps or corrects the problem...so a bad o2 will make it pop in the intake...also this does do it when cold sometimes too....not all the time it runs great for awhile cold or hot then starts to idle rough and pop int heintkae clears up and runs fine,,,very weird no?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,248
17,929
224
Massachusetts
Oct 20, 2010
#7
  • Oct 20, 2010
  • #7
Yes a bad o2 could do that.

Like i said before. To confirm it's the o2, you can swap them to opposite sides and see if the code changes to follow it.
 

MY 85 GT

10 Year Member
Mar 7, 2008
1,852
208
104
New Jersey
Oct 20, 2010
#8
  • Oct 20, 2010
  • #8
I bought these off another forum supossedly new maybe im better off buying a new pair and go from there? eliminate them buy putting new ones in?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,248
17,929
224
Massachusetts
Oct 20, 2010
#9
  • Oct 20, 2010
  • #9
Well, I already told you what i would do first. I hate telling people to spend money needlessly.
 

MY 85 GT

10 Year Member
Mar 7, 2008
1,852
208
104
New Jersey
Oct 20, 2010
#10
  • Oct 20, 2010
  • #10
Mustang5L5 said:
Well, I already told you what i would do first. I hate telling people to spend money needlessly.
Click to expand...


Yeah i look at it this way if im under the car changing them around i'll buy new ones and if thats not the problem i can use them in my 90 GT i have no idea when those were changed so i can have spares...LOL...anything to fix this car ...anything...
 
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