Old Blue Won't Start

May 22, 2019
10
4
13
68
Fort Worth, TX
Good morning Stallions & Fillies -
Longtime reader, newbie poster.

PROBLEM; 2007 4.0 5-speed will not start by turning the key.

I can start it easily by giving it a little push, then pop the clutch.
Starts right up and runs like a scalded dog!
.
New battery, Alternator, key FOBs, ground wire.
Checked Clutch safety switch, it's fine.
Had a new starter 2 yrs ago ....
I thought it might be that, but I don't even get a click when I turn the key.

ANY suggestions folks????
 
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cbxer55

Active Member
Jan 25, 2020
205
41
38
59
Oklahoma
Is the starter solenoid built into the starter on these vehicles? Ford's used to have a stand alone solenoid, usually mounted on the inner fender, and they were problematic.

Having said that, I have three Fords, one of which is 22 years old, and never had any starting troubles with any of them. Well, the 98 Ranger did have crank but no start troubles, but I figured out it was me overfilling the tank causing problems with the EVAP system. Guess being 22 years old, there may be a bad one-way valve in the EVAP system.

Watched Bullitt last night for the first time. Also both versions of Gone in 60 Seconds. Boy, in that 1974 movie, they sure bit the crap out of poor Eleanor. Sad to see. That was an epic car chase. Much better than the newer version.
 
May 22, 2019
10
4
13
68
Fort Worth, TX
HALLELUIA!!! PTL!! PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
Turns out there was a loose nut behind the steering wheel ..... that would be ME!

LSS, according to my Chilton Manual, Section 8, the Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) Switch is located at the TOP of the Clutch Pedal.
Since this is a main cut-off, it was one of first things I checked, and it tested good. Therefore, went on to everything else described above.
Wracked my pea brain for the next few days as well as rattled a bunch of you folks with mis-information.
Weellllll, in the process of cleaning up a rat's nest of wiring under the dash, along with my extensive study of the wiring schematics,
I noticed another little switch located off in obscurity on the left side at the BASE of the Clutch Pedal.
Thought this was the Cruise Control DEACTIVATION Switch, but decided to test it as well. It failed!!
Hmmmm ...... back to the schematics and started tracing the color codes of the two switches' wiring.
Turns out the CPP Switch (which will not allow car to start unless clutch is engaged) is the one located ON THE SIDE OF THE PEDAL.
The Cruise Control Deactivation switch is the one located ON TOP OF THE PEDAL !!
As you can see, all along from the onset I thought the CPP was good, and that my issue had to have been with PATS. W-R-O-N-G!!!!

Lessons learned for many -
A BIG THANK YOU to all for your input and suggestions as Blue is now back on the road. Y'all are awesome!!
And thank YOU Mr. Chilton for my week long witch hunt from which I've learned soooooo much!

Those are two of my favorite movies!
Got the Gen-5 bug after seeing it for the first time. Now that I'm an ole coot, I have a pair of 7's:
* 2007 4.0 5-spd satin silver with Spectre cold air, MGW short thro, Flowmaster 40's, Screamin Demon coil pak, bullitt wheels,
tri-guage pillar pod, GT bumper, grille lights, etc.
* 2007 4.0 5-spd metallic blue with Spectre cold air, MGW short thro, Flowmaster 40's, 2018 wheels, GT grille lights
Love 'em fast and loud .... and cheap to insure ;)
Thanks again!
 
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cbxer55

Active Member
Jan 25, 2020
205
41
38
59
Oklahoma
Glad you figured it out. I don't see all the help you mentioned. LOL!

Mine is a 4.0 automatic. I bought it because I liked the appearance. Had a Roush rear spoiler and hood scoop already on it. Since then, I've put a Cervinni's front spoiler, Cervinni's rear scoops, both the upper and lower. Rear window louvers and a CravenSpeed stubby antenna. Ford Performance strut tower brace, Accel Supercoils, JBA spiral wound all metal wires and news plugs, WeaponR intake with cold air tube. Intending some sequential LED tail lights soon. Also a Borla True Dual catback exhaust.

Here's one before pic and a couple after. They're already in the Favorite appearance thread, but what the heck. The more the merrier.
 

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May 22, 2019
10
4
13
68
Fort Worth, TX
That's what happens when you become a senior citizen. You can't remember which Forum you said what, and where the information came from ;))

Great ride! Got her fixed up nice!
Love all the mods - and the color is killer!

My Silver one has sequentials - want others to see me for safety sake.
Got a few other LEDs throughout, including the Tri-Bar puddle lights.

The blue one has 200k miles, but a clean car that runs great (when it's running). It was initially intended to be a flipper, but I ended up falling in love with the color.
I have sooo much $$$ in it, can't afford to sell it now :<)

Keep er unda a hundred ...
Thanks for sharing!
 

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cbxer55

Active Member
Jan 25, 2020
205
41
38
59
Oklahoma
I believe that the V-6 Mustang's likely have a much better front to rear weight bias. There is a lake 10 miles from me, an endless round the lake twisty curvy road. This Mustang handles like a dream on that road. Much better than my VERY FRONT END HEAVY Lightning. That thing is a porky pig on a twisty road.

Was out there Sunday. Alongside the main road is a bicycle/jogging/waling path. Another road basically, that also goes around the entire lake. 15 miles. As I was motoring around the lake, lots of people giving my car the evil eye, and lots of THUMBS UP from people on the smaller road.

I have a few more items to do, aesthetic wise. These because I have never seen them in person on a Mustang. https://www.carid.com/xenon/front-fender-scoop-kit-unpainted-mpn-12790.html

I put these on yesterday. No pics yet, but they are the same color as mine in the supplied pic. https://www.carid.com/2007-ford-mustang-body-kits/3dcarbon-headlight-splitters-901738881.html
 
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