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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Opentracker UCA vs. Global West UCA

  • Thread starter Thread starter CarFreakGT
  • Start date Start date Oct 1, 2006

CarFreakGT

20+ Year Stangneter
May 26, 2003
395
11
29
Louisville, KY
Oct 1, 2006
#1
  • Oct 1, 2006
  • #1
I'm gathering parts for a front-end rebuild for my 68 coupe. I would like to drastically improve road handling, and would like to do some (novice) road racing in the future. But, that's quite a ways off--at least a few years. There's a lot that I want to do the car, and it is going to take a while.

I'd like to know how significant the difference is b/w Opentracker street UCA and, say, Opentracker road racing or Global West UCA. I know the cost difference, but will I only feel a significant difference if I'm all-out racing? Budget isn't crazy-tight, and there's not a deadline, so to speak, to get the car done. It's a long-term project. I'm trying to get an idea if I want to save a little longer for higher-end pieces, or if it's not really worth it unless I'm flat-out on the track.

I appreciate any feedback, and please let me know if I need to give more info. Thanks!

Bryan
 
O

Opentracker

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 4, 2004
516
0
16
Oct 2, 2006
#2
  • Oct 2, 2006
  • #2
It's all about camber curve - how much you want and how much your willing to pay for it?

The ORP street arm is just that, an arm for the street. It has the stock ball joint angle and works well with the standard upper arm mounting point or the 1" drop.

The ORP road racing UCA has the ball joint angle change built in for any about of drop up to 1 3/4".

The GW arm has the ball joint angle change built into it also but is tubular instead of a braced stock type arm.

The ORP and GW arm will both give you better performance than a stock arm mounted in the stock location.

We have a new arm out called an Autocross arm. It has the ball joint angle change built in with the bracing on the side rather than under the arm. They also have a gusset under the arm at the spring perch mounting point. Price wise they are in the middle of the range between the stock arm and the ORP road racing or GW arm. Here is a couple of pic's.

http://members.cox.net/opentracker/2004_0823autoxarms0006.JPG

http://members.cox.net/opentracker/2004_0823autoxarms0005.JPG

The difference between an arm mounted 1" lower than stock and an arm mounted 1 3/4" lower than stock will be felt on the track more than the street IMO. We ran our first three years of open track events with a 1" drop and bone stock UCA's and the car did well. The 1 3/4'' drop will give the car more grip becacuse of the better camber curve. The type of arm you use is the $$$ question. Vintage legal or tubular?

As I have said before, a driving school will do more for your lap times than any part you can buy. It will also make you a better driver on the street. Before you hit the track, take a driving school. You'll save time and money in the long run.

John
 

2bav8

Founding Member
Nov 30, 1998
2,511
1
47
Mesa, AZ
Oct 2, 2006
#3
  • Oct 2, 2006
  • #3
Great info John on the different upper arms.

Sounds like your new autocross arm fits the bill for someone looking for improved performance on a budget, especially with the ability to drop the arm a 1.75" for maximum grip.
 

CarFreakGT

20+ Year Stangneter
May 26, 2003
395
11
29
Louisville, KY
Oct 2, 2006
#4
  • Oct 2, 2006
  • #4
2bav8 said:
Great info John on the different upper arms.

Sounds like your new autocross arm fits the bill for someone looking for improved performance on a budget, especially with the ability to drop the arm a 1.75" for maximum grip.
Click to expand...

Ditto on the kudos, opentracker. Thanks for the info! Your explanation was just what I was looking for. I've been checking out the products on your website as I try to plan my rebuild, and the autocross arms do look like they may fit my needs well. Although I probably won't go as low as 1.75" drop, it's nice to know that I can if I want to.

Thanks again!
 
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