Opinions on a good fuel pump.

Being sure the wire tested is correct is key. With the ground wire to the control side of the relay for instance, it will float voltage even though it is a ground wire.

If you do have 12 volts egressing the FP relay, and this happens each and every time you turn the key, put your meter across the electrical connector for the pump (it's on the front-top area of the tank). If you see the same results there, you should have adequate power to the pump so I'd replace the pump.

If the output wire to the pump was showing 1.2 volts, check the Common terminal for the relay. It should show 12 volts constantly. If it does while your output shows 1.2 volts, replace the relay or clean the relay terminals. If the load-side wire into the relay shows 1.2 volts, check the fusible link for the pump. It's just off the solenoid.
 
I'm going to check for 12 volts again at the relay. In reading your post Hissin. I think I was taking the reading incorrectly last night. I disconnected the plug from the relay, but I'm thinking I should have left it connected to the relay, and probed it with a pin to take the reading. I'll check it again, and then check it at the pump. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

If I end up with 12 volts all the way around, and our testing points to the pump. Which Walbro pump do you guys use? I'm looking at either the GSS-307 or GSS-340. Pls chime in with your opinion. Thanks...
 
Hissin I got a definite 12 volts at the relay this time.

At the pump I used safety pins and probed the black and white wires going on top of the tank from just in front of the rear bumper. With the key on I only got 3.84 volts. Were they the right wires, and if so do I have a bad relay or something after the relay? I was very positive until the 3.84 volts. I hate to keep asking, but did I use the right wires, and where do I go from here? Is there another relay? Hope you can help me again.
 
At this point, I'd check voltage in and out of the inertia switch. The switches can get old and resistive. There should be no appreciable drop across the switch.

Could the wires you probed at the tank have been pink/blk and black? Another way to be sure you have the right ones is to turn the key on and watch your DMM. It will show voltage till the prime-out is over, and then the voltage will fall to zero. Tripping the inertia switch would also be a means of testing that the correct wires are being tested.
 
No they were one solid white and one solid black. I'm on the way back out to find the pink/black and black. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks man for the color code update.
 
Normally because of all the weird observations you've had, I would suggest to do a volume test and to confirm that the FPR is not bypassing fuel intermittantly. In the time that this takes, it might be easier to just spend the time replacing the pump.

If getting a new pump, be sure you get it from a reputable seller - there are a ton of knock-offs on the internet.
 
Not that I'm thrilled to get under there and replace the pump again, I am however hopeful that this will solve the problem. I'm going to have aGSS-307 Walbro overnighted from JDsPerformance.com I've heard a few good things about them. Fingers crossed. Hissin I can't thank you enough for helping me through the trouble shooting.
 
Dave at JD's is good people (he's who I buy my pumps from).

There's only so much someone can do from a keyboard. I can only hope that I haven't steered you off target.

Don't forget to grab a new filler grommet if you think yours might be problematic (I keep a spare around because sometimes they don't like being disturbed, regardless of age).
 
Well get this. My wife has been paying attention to whats been going on with the car, and here on Stangnet, and went ahead and her and my brother ordered the pump for me yesterday without me knowing it. Isn't she the best.

The pump came today, and my son and I put it in with no problems, and so far everything seems to be perfect. It builds pressure when cold and warm, and starts right up everytime even after driving it for a while. I'm going to take it back out a little later and get it up to temperature, let it sit a few minutes, see if it still builds pressure, and if it still starts right up. I feel real good that it will. It feels like it has a little more power too. The pump is a lot more quiet also than the other one.

I thank you very much Hissin for all of your help through out this ordeal. You are extremely knowledgeable, and an asset to all of us on Stangnet.

I hope this thread helps someone else out as well. Just because a part is farely new does not mean it's good.

Joe