Over Revved in First

You get up under it with a stethoscope yet?

Umm, doesn't sound quite right-did you disco/reconnect the spout with the engine running?

I'm pretty sure you're supposed to have power off before pulling or reinstalling the spout...

i had a 351 that had cam bearing squeak and a tick when i got it, i bought it used and never herd it run for an old ford pick up i was so mad i just, well treated it real bad, i over reved that pig many many times, ran it hot a couple times when it tossed the belt, ran it out of oil basically ran the dog excrement out of it, when i sold it she still had the squeak and tick it had when i put it in just couldnt kill the pig man. tick seemed to come from the rear of the cam area, i figured it may have been from cam walk and the cam tapping on the rear cam plug and the squeak seemed to be around the middle of the block. didnt matter on type or weight of oil it still did it. your prob could be a number of things, drain the oil into a clean pan and inspect for shinneys maybe cut the filter open too. could have shaved the thrust off and crank could be dancing. one way to check is have a bud rev it...not to much, maybe 1500-3k and back down while you carefully watch the balancer for movement. good luck man
whitey

Hmm...I guess I was just spoiled by my Anderson PMS...that thing displayed my timing real time. At idle, it was usually showing 18*...

No.11 said:

Ok so my timing wasnt retarded... I was.

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know this feeling...

Also got some Taylor Thundervolts on the way from summit (woohoo only 50 ohms resistance), and gonna drop the fuel tank again to rewire the 255 pump and cover it with some heatshrink instead of being idiotic and putting electrical tape on it... shame... then gonna maybe get that fuel injector parts kit from fordfuelinjection and also install my kirban AFPR, to clear up this misfire I'm getting. Actually, I didn't get any misfire today after I replaced that burnt #5 wire with an older spare one... doesn't mean it won't come back though.

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hopefully not, but only one way to find out

As for the TOB which I'm pretty sure is shot...AHHHHH wtf don't want to drop the transmission. If I do, I cant pass up the opportunity and not get a new clutch and flywheel which both need to be replaced...and pilot bearing....

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...sounds like a plan-get after it and good luck!

Quick and easy check to find out if you did any engine damage: its a cylinder balance test and all it takes to do it is a paper clip!

Cylinder balance test:

Revised 30-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

The computer has a cylinder balance test that helps locate cylinder with low power output. You’ll need to dump the codes out of the computer and make sure that you have the A/C off, clutch depressed to the floor and the transmission in neutral. Fail to do this and you can’t do the engine running dump codes test that allows you to do the cylinder balance test.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C clutch depressed to the floor, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.


Here's how to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and drivability problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, clutch depressed to the floor and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Cylinder balance test
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. Remember to keep the clutch pedal (5 speed) depressed to the floor during the test.The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 9 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 2 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures.
Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure


Do a compression test on all the cylinders.
Take special note of any cylinder that shows up as weak in the cylinder balance test. Low compression on one of these cylinders rules out the injectors as being the most likely cause of the problem. Look at cylinders that fail the cylinder balance test but have good compression. These cylinders either have a bad injector, bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Move the wire and then the spark plug to another cylinder and run the cylinder balance test again. If it follows the moved wire or spark plug, you have found the problem. If the same cylinder fails the test again, the injector is bad. If different cylinders fail the cylinder balance test, you have ignition problems or wiring problems in the 10 pin black & white electrical connectors located by the EGR.

How to do a compression test:
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading. Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent. If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would be a good tool to add to your collection.

With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good & what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from 140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that have more than 10% difference.

See the link to my site for details on how to build your own blow down type compression tester.