Well I replaced the thermostat first as the water pump appeared to be fine & was not leaking, I fire it up & it starts overheating, I am looking @ the stock guage & listening & watching the motor start to crawl the hotter & hotter it gets, so I replace water pump & same thing..
I've already flushed system about 5 months ago & burped & retopped off & all the way up to now it has been fine, not a drop off lost antifreeze in the rad & even after replacing the thermastat (twice) & waterpump both @ different times surely any bubbles in the system are gone.
What about the Heater Core, will it cause this if maybe it's clogged, anyother suggestions ?
it's really not that hard to burp the system and it could solve your problem. I burped and retopped off 3 or 4 times a week for several weeks straight, so it's not that big of a deal. Leave your rad. cap off and start it up, any bubbles escape...squeeze the upper hose, you know the drill...some even jack up the pass side I think.
My problem ended up being due to a bad radiator cap and my rad. neck wasn't flat. A rad shop checked it out for me and he flattened the top, I bought a new cap and it's fine.
In addition to the more common trapped air theory and sticky thermostat....
1. Radiator cap not holding pressure
2. Radiator in poor condition
3. Coolant pump rotating too slowly (underdrives)
4. Coolant pump in poor condtion
5. Air/fuel ratio too lean
6. Radiator not recieving enough fresh, cool air through the fins
Not sure how to break the news but - new t'stats and water pumps rarely solve overheating problems - unless the t'stat was stuck closed.
Water pump failure is almost always related to seals leaking. Even stock pumps have enough excess capacity that as the impeller becomes coated with deposits, they still usually pump just fine. And lowering operating temps with a new t'stat simply buys you a little time -- it usually takes a little longer for the system to heat back into the overheating range, that's all.
Dumb questions first - you sure you put the t'stat in facing the right way? Spring towards the engine?
If you're overheating, it's likely because either the radiator is no longer capable of rejecting enough heat, or the fans aren't moving enough air across the radiator at low speed. Underdrives can contribute as both the water pump and the mechanical fan are turning at lower speed which sometimes combines to cause problems -- not moving enough coolant quickly enough, and not moving enough air across with the slower turning fan.
So, tell us all about your radiator and your fan set up.
I will look allittle closer into this, I was going to unhook the heatercore but oddly the thing has ran perfect for 6 months & I have never once ever had a problem like this, I have had about 4 or 5 pums & regs go out on me over the years but never nothing ,like this, just so you understand this is not a slight overheating this is from the time I start it @ wich time being cold it only takes about 2 minutes to reach the H & the heater remind ya never works just blows out air "not hot".
Ray - it's almost physically impossible for one to actually overheat in 2 minutes from a cold start up assuming it's full of coolant. Given that, it's likely a gauge or sender unit issue. The stock gauge/sender are notoriously inaccurate anyway - you should have a quality aftermarket temp gauge to protect your parts investment.
But you didn't answer the questions - did you put the t'stat in the right way? What's your radiator/fan set up?
If the rad is stock, they will build up mineral deposits over time and gradually become less effective. We don't notice anything until one day they just start overheating.
Welp sure enough, I squeezed some hoses, loosened cap, reved & repeated procedure & walla just when it was almost overheated again the guage shot to cold & has stayed there ever since, never seen air bubbles do anything like that before but man am I a beleiver now, thanks alot guys